Switchback l.e.d turn signals
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Switchback l.e.d turn signals
Used a forum search and it appears no one here has done a switchback l.e.d. swap, yes, no maybe?
I ask because I attempted this swap, driver side first and well, it didn't go so well. Followed the included instructions and still had "hyperblinking" of the l.e.d. Solid connections, load resistor attached to metal, the l.e.d. cycled like it was on speed. Anyone have suggestions? Raxiom kit btw.
Ric
I ask because I attempted this swap, driver side first and well, it didn't go so well. Followed the included instructions and still had "hyperblinking" of the l.e.d. Solid connections, load resistor attached to metal, the l.e.d. cycled like it was on speed. Anyone have suggestions? Raxiom kit btw.
Ric
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It sounds like your resistor isn't doing what it's supposed to do. It's much easier to connect the 6 ohm 50 watt resistor across the turn signal power and ground wires than it is to connect one end to a fixed chassis ground. Simply connect one end of the resistor to the T/S power wire (blue/green wire on the left, yellow/purple wire on the right) and the other end of the resistor to the bulb socket ground wire (black/yellow wire on both sides).
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It sounds like your resistor isn't doing what it's supposed to do. It's much easier to connect the 6 ohm 50 watt resistor across the turn signal power and ground wires than it is to connect one end to a fixed chassis ground. Simply connect one end of the resistor to the T/S power wire (blue/green wire on the left, yellow/purple wire on the right) and the other end of the resistor to the bulb socket ground wire (black/yellow wire on both sides).
Thanks WhiteBird, that's how I wired it(blue/green, black/yellow) on the driver side. Didn't get to the passenger side. I've ordered new Morimoto resistors and will try those once they get here and the weather calms down a bit.
Ric
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It's unlikely that the resistors themselves are the problem (unless they're the wrong type). However, it's not uncommon for the connections to cause problems - especially if you used ScotchLock or equivalent connectors. I've found that the Posi-Tap connectors work much more reliably although they cost more and are sometimes difficult to find locally.
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It's unlikely that the resistors themselves are the problem (unless they're the wrong type). However, it's not uncommon for the connections to cause problems - especially if you used ScotchLock or equivalent connectors. I've found that the Posi-Tap connectors work much more reliably although they cost more and are sometimes difficult to find locally.
Ric
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