2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

Starting car when in storage.

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Old 12/11/11 | 12:11 PM
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Starting car when in storage.

I was wondering, I am storing my Mustang this winter and was wondering how often did others start their car up when in storage? I aim to do it once a month until it gets up to operating temperature and maybe move it a little to avoid flat spots on the tires. Is that often enough?
Old 12/11/11 | 12:14 PM
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remove the battery or attach a battery tender to it add stybil to your fuel and don't bother starting it at all.
Old 12/11/11 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JCStang
I was wondering, I am storing my Mustang this winter and was wondering how often did others start their car up when in storage? I aim to do it once a month until it gets up to operating temperature and maybe move it a little to avoid flat spots on the tires. Is that often enough?
Don't bother starting it. Worse thing you could Prolly do is start it let get up to temp then shutdown and leave it each month.
Old 12/11/11 | 01:22 PM
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As much as you would like to, just leave it sit untill ready to take it out for a run in the spring.
Old 12/11/11 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by generalee31184
Don't bother starting it. Worse thing you could Prolly do is start it let get up to temp then shutdown and leave it each month.
I disagree. Start it and run it until the fans comes on takes quite awhile. I slowly drive out to the mailbox with light revving as well as idling in the driveway beforehand.

It not only charges the battery and moves the tires, but it lubes all the various seals in the engine and drive train.

The first 3 winters I started every 4 weeks and it started fine. Last year I went 6-7 weeks and the battery died. So I'm back to 4 weeks.

I also pumped the tires up to 36#. Coming up on 4 years with 5 mos storage each year, and I have no leaks or drips from seals.
Old 12/11/11 | 04:48 PM
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Like engine break-in procedures, you'll get conflicting information on this. I do basically as cdynaco does... but there is probably a strong argument for leaving it alone.

The most important thing is probably WHERE the car is kept. As dry as possible is best...
If it's outside (or in a barn, etc), consider loading it up with mothballs to keep the little furry creatures out...the dryer sheets (which some reccomend) do nothing. I used to set the mothballs on aluminum foil trays to keep the mothballs from leaving residue on the interior or under-hood items.
Old 12/11/11 | 05:01 PM
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I start ours every couple weeks too...right/wrong/who knows- in my thinking, I just dont want the cylinder walls drying out enough to get any rust on them...the extra moisture buildup in the exhaust from cooldowns I dont worry about as its all stainless...

the other thing I do, right or wrong, drive it enough up the drive and turn around, steering lock to lock both ways, and ride the brakes to scuff the rust away, turn defroster on(to cycle the AC- AC wont come on in cooling mode if its cold out), just wanting to circulate some oil thru the steering and lube thru the ac.
Old 12/11/11 | 05:08 PM
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From: The Motor City
Originally Posted by generalee31184

Don't bother starting it. Worse thing you could Prolly do is start it let get up to temp then shutdown and leave it each month.
Really? Source?

FYI, the Owner's manual explains what to do according to Ford, who built the car..

Last edited by J1000; 12/11/11 at 05:11 PM.
Old 12/11/11 | 05:15 PM
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From: The Motor City
From the owner's manual:

VEHICLE STORAGE

If you plan on storing your vehicle for an extended period of time (30 days or more), refer to the following maintenance recommendations to ensure your vehicle stays in good operating condition.

All motor vehicles and their components were engineered and tested for reliable, regular driving. Long term storage under various conditions may lead to component degradation or failure unless specific precautions are taken to preserve the components.

General

o Store all vehicles in a dry, ventilated place.
o Protect from sunlight, if possible.
o If vehicles are stored outside, they require regular maintenance to protect against rust and damage.

Body

o Wash vehicle thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, oil, tar or mud from exterior surfaces, rear-wheel housing and underside of front fenders. See the Cleaning chapter for more information.
o Periodically wash vehicles stored in exposed locations.
o Touch-up raw or primed metal to prevent rust.
o Cover chrome and stainless steel parts with a thick coat of auto wax to prevent discoloration. Re-wax as necessary when the vehicle is washed. See the Cleaning chapter for more information.
o Lubricate all hood, door and trunk lid hinges, and latches with a light grade oil. See the Cleaning chapter for more information.
o Cover interior trim to prevent fading.
o Keep all rubber parts free from oil and solvents.

Engine

o The engine oil and filter should be changed prior to storage, as used engine oil contain contaminates that may cause engine damage.

Maintenance and Specifications

303

o Start the engine every 15 days. Run at fast idle until it reaches normal operating temperature.
o With your foot on the brake, shift through all the gears while the engine is running.

Fuel system

o Fill the fuel tank with high-quality fuel until the first automatic shutoff of the fuel pump nozzle.

Note: During extended periods of vehicle storage (30 days or more), fuel may deteriorate due to oxidation. Add a quality gas stabilizer product to the vehicle fuel system whenever actual or expected storage periods exceed 30 days. Follow the instructions on the additive label. The vehicle should then be operated at idle speed to circulate the additive throughout the fuel system.

Cooling system

o Protect against freezing temperatures.
o When removing vehicle from storage, check coolant fluid level. Confirm there are no cooling system leaks, and fluid is at the recommended level.

Battery

o Check and recharge as necessary. Keep connections clean.
o If storing your vehicle for more than 30 days without recharging the battery, it may be advisable to disconnect the battery cables to ensure battery charge is maintained for quick starting.

Note: If battery cables are disconnected, it will be necessary to reset memory features.

Brakes
o Make sure brakes and parking brake are fully released.

Tires
o Maintain recommended air pressure.

Miscellaneous

o Make sure all linkages, cables, levers and pins under vehicle are covered with grease to prevent rust.
o Move vehicles at least 25 feet (8 m) every 15 days to lubricate working parts and prevent corrosion.
Maintenance and Specifications

304
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Last edited by J1000; 12/11/11 at 05:18 PM.
Old 12/11/11 | 09:57 PM
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Is fuel stabil really necessary and a good thing of I plan on starting it up 1x or 2x a month during winter? I just am not a fan of putting foreign substances into the fuel or engine system. (I.e. injector cleaners, etc). What brand of fuel stabil is necessary?
Old 12/12/11 | 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
Is fuel stabil really necessary and a good thing of I plan on starting it up 1x or 2x a month during winter? I just am not a fan of putting foreign substances into the fuel or engine system. (I.e. injector cleaners, etc). What brand of fuel stabil is necessary?


Yes. Because you won't burn that whole tank just starting it a few times each month so you're still using stale fuel. And particularly with ethanol.


Last edited by cdynaco; 12/12/11 at 05:05 AM.
Old 12/12/11 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JCStang
I was wondering, I am storing my Mustang this winter and was wondering how often did others start their car up when in storage? I aim to do it once a month until it gets up to operating temperature and maybe move it a little to avoid flat spots on the tires. Is that often enough?
Originally Posted by J1000
From the owner's manual:

VEHICLE STORAGE
+1 J1000

Definitely go with the Owner's guide info, JCStang.

Deysha
Old 12/12/11 | 12:07 PM
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My plan is to put in '94 Octane and run it for at least 1/2 tank, top it off and leave it per the manual's instructions. Fuel should not degrade over 4 to 6 months in a closed system.
Old 12/12/11 | 12:20 PM
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I use Seafoam. Used it for years in my bikes and cars and never ever had a problem. Heck I even use the stuff in my lawnmower.

Old 12/12/11 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cdynaco

Yes. Because you won't burn that whole tank just starting it a few times each month so you're still using stale fuel. And particularly with ethanol.

No ethanol in any of my fuels... just pure 91 or 93 grade (when available) in my cars.

So Stabil is still necessary/a must? How many folks on here do NOT add any sort of fuel stabilizer for their winter parking?
Old 12/12/11 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
No ethanol in any of my fuels... just pure 91 or 93 grade (when available) in my cars.

So Stabil is still necessary/a must? How many folks on here do NOT add any sort of fuel stabilizer for their winter parking?
I've been putting my summer car away in winter for about 25 years and have only once ever used Stabil or anything similar. I've never had a car fail to start right up in spring.
Old 12/12/11 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
No ethanol in any of my fuels... just pure 91 or 93 grade (when available) in my cars.
Originally Posted by FromZto5

The fact that old gas develops varnish over time is hardly new - and that was pre-eth days. (What State allows non-eth - thought 10% was mandated?) With injectors, that 'gum' may be more problematic than carbs.
I've used it for years for my vehicles and small engines during their downtime and have had zero issues. And the manufacturerer recommends it.
But do what you want. I don't get any commish from stabil. (I did read where its important to get a fuel stabilizer without alcohol content.)

The driving force behind U.S. ethanol consumption is the Renewable Fuel Standard (RFS), otherwise known as the ethanol mandate, which was established with the enactment of the Energy Policy Act of 2005.The RFS mandated that a minimum of 4 billion gallons of renewable fuels be used in 2006 and that Americans consume at least 7.5 billion gallons by 2012. Two years later, in the midst of the 2008 campaign cycle, Congress passed the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 greatly expanding the RFS mandate. Americans now must consume 36 billion gallons of “renewable fuels” annually by 2022—15 billion gallons of which will be corn ethanol.
Here's Why

Unlike crude oil, gasoline is a highly refined product brewed to a certain chemical composition with very specific characteristics. One characteristic of gas is volatility, a term used to describe how easily and under what conditions the gas vaporizes so it can be efficiently burned in your car's engine.
The most highly volatile components in gasoline also tend to evaporate over time. As they do, the remaining fuel's volatility and ability to combust properly degrades. The less volatile the fuel, the less effectively it burns in your engine. The result is diminished engine performance. Your engine may still start and run, but it probably won't run as well.
The good news is, once the old gas has been consumed and the tank is topped off with fresh fuel, the problem should cure itself. Evaporation of volatile compounds can be limited by making sure the gas cap is secured tightly. For the same reason, be sure all portable gas containers are sealed tightly as well.
A More Serious Problem: Oxidation

Hydrocarbons in the gas react with oxygen to produce new compounds that eventually change the chemical composition of the fuel. This leads to gum and varnish deposits in the fuel system.
These deposits and impurities can clog up gas lines and filters, as well the small orifices in a carburetor and the even smaller orifices in a fuel injector. Removing these deposits can be expensive and your vehicle may not run at all or run very poorly until they are removed.
http://articles.cnn.com/2008-04-09/l...l?_s=PM:LIVING

Last edited by cdynaco; 12/12/11 at 01:46 PM.
Old 12/12/11 | 03:48 PM
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From: In Boredom
Originally Posted by J1000
From the owner's manual:

VEHICLE STORAGE

If you plan on storing your vehicle for an extended period of time (30 days or more), refer to the following maintenance recommendations to ensure your vehicle stays in good operating condition.

All motor vehicles and their components were engineered and tested for reliable, regular driving. Long term storage under various conditions may lead to component degradation or failure unless specific precautions are taken to preserve the components.

General

o Store all vehicles in a dry, ventilated place.
o Protect from sunlight, if possible.
o If vehicles are stored outside, they require regular maintenance to protect against rust and damage.

Body

o Wash vehicle thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, oil, tar or mud from exterior surfaces, rear-wheel housing and underside of front fenders. See the Cleaning chapter for more information.
o Periodically wash vehicles stored in exposed locations.
o Touch-up raw or primed metal to prevent rust.
o Cover chrome and stainless steel parts with a thick coat of auto wax to prevent discoloration. Re-wax as necessary when the vehicle is washed. See the Cleaning chapter for more information.
o Lubricate all hood, door and trunk lid hinges, and latches with a light grade oil. See the Cleaning chapter for more information.
o Cover interior trim to prevent fading.
o Keep all rubber parts free from oil and solvents.

Engine

o The engine oil and filter should be changed prior to storage, as used engine oil contain contaminates that may cause engine damage.

Maintenance and Specifications

303

o Start the engine every 15 days. Run at fast idle until it reaches normal operating temperature.
o With your foot on the brake, shift through all the gears while the engine is running.

Fuel system

o Fill the fuel tank with high-quality fuel until the first automatic shutoff of the fuel pump nozzle.

Note: During extended periods of vehicle storage (30 days or more), fuel may deteriorate due to oxidation. Add a quality gas stabilizer product to the vehicle fuel system whenever actual or expected storage periods exceed 30 days. Follow the instructions on the additive label. The vehicle should then be operated at idle speed to circulate the additive throughout the fuel system.

Cooling system

o Protect against freezing temperatures.
o When removing vehicle from storage, check coolant fluid level. Confirm there are no cooling system leaks, and fluid is at the recommended level.

Battery

o Check and recharge as necessary. Keep connections clean.
o If storing your vehicle for more than 30 days without recharging the battery, it may be advisable to disconnect the battery cables to ensure battery charge is maintained for quick starting.

Note: If battery cables are disconnected, it will be necessary to reset memory features.

Brakes
o Make sure brakes and parking brake are fully released.

Tires
o Maintain recommended air pressure.

Miscellaneous

o Make sure all linkages, cables, levers and pins under vehicle are covered with grease to prevent rust.
o Move vehicles at least 25 feet (8 m) every 15 days to lubricate working parts and prevent corrosion.
Maintenance and Specifications

304
well there Ya have it.
Old 12/12/11 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyW
I've been putting my summer car away in winter for about 25 years and have only once ever used Stabil or anything similar. I've never had a car fail to start right up in spring.
good stuff Knock on wood. Does anyone know how long it takes for gas to gum things up or even start to gum things up?
Old 12/12/11 | 03:57 PM
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From: That town you drive through to get to Myrtle Beach
Originally Posted by FromZto5
No ethanol in any of my fuels... just pure 91 or 93 grade (when available) in my cars.

So Stabil is still necessary/a must? How many folks on here do NOT add any sort of fuel stabilizer for their winter parking?
where, might I ask, have you managed to find pure gas? Every station I go to now has ethanol and I live in an area that doesnt really have winter mix fuel. They only have to tell you there's ethanol in the fuel if it's a high enough concentration (as heard from a Ford dealership manager).

Originally Posted by Glenn
good stuff Knock on wood. Does anyone know how long it takes for gas to gum things up or even start to gum things up?
it really depends on temperatures and exposure, moisture,and a few other things. But for my money, better safe than sorry!



Also, reading this thread reminds me how much I love living in the south!


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