I recently installed a new brake booster on my 2014 3.7 I replaced my old one because I’m running turbos and didn’t have a check valve on my brake booster line so I think I damaged the diaphragm. But with the new one I have a check valve but I still hear a squeak at idle that goes away when I’m in gear. It’ll occasionally come back when im coasting or stopped

 

Got Any Hose Clamps on Brake Vacuum Lines?? Also Are You Using Proper Line Which Will Not Collapse With High Vacuum??

Mgb,

KC

 

Had a Thought and Checked The 2015 Mustang Up Brake Booster Check Valve. They Are Compatible With the Ecoboost and Might Work Well on your 3.7L Turbo Application. I Can't Be Sure if Same Diameter But it's Cheap Enough to Give it a Try! Additional Taps Can Be Capped or Used For Other Things.

Just a Thought!

Take a Look!

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...3z-2365-a.html

Mgb,

KC

 

I do have hose clamps I had to make the hose bigger to fit one of the check valves.

 

Well When You Put it In Gear It Drops Rpm and Likely Vacuum a Tad. With a Modified Vehicle Sometimes You Got to Do a Work Around. Had To Do That Back in the Day With Carbureted Vehicles with a High Overlap Cam To Get Proper Idle Etc.

Now This is Shooting From The Hip With Information Provided But Your End Desired End Result is to get Rid of the Squeek. I Would Check Vacuum at Idle and in Gear to See Exactly at What Rating the Squeek Occurs. So Per Se At 18" of Vacuum it's Squeeking and At 16" It's Not. I am Assuming it Drops at Idle. An N/A Motor Would. So if That is Correct. You Can Alter Timing Just a Tad at Idle if You Have the Tuning Capability in Your Tuner I Assume You Have one With A Turbo or Alter Idle Speed Likely Down 50Rpm if It is Not Too Low or Perhaps a Metered Orifice in the Booster Line To Slightly Cut Vacuum Back Just a Tad As Too Much Will Give You A Hard Pedal. Or A Combination Of 2 or 3 of the Suggestions. First Thing is To Monitor Squeek with Vacuum Gauge at Both Idle and Driving During Deceleration And Seeing Squeek in Regards to Vacuum Rating.

A Vid of The Setup and Squeel Could Go Go A long Way or at Least a Look At Your Booster Vacuum Setup Would Be Helpful as Well. Anytime You Deviate from Stock Odd Issues Can Arise. Sometime The Solution is a Lot of Trial and Error and The Solutions Can Be Out of The Norm. Been Down That Road! I Take it Your Brakes are Currently Functioning Correctly and Similar to Pre Turbo Operation??

You Could Also Consider an Electric Vacuum Pump For the Brake Booster To Be Able To Easily Set a Constant and Consistent Vacuum Setting. Testing With The Vacuum Gauge Before Hand again Would Indicate if a Certain Reading Would Eliminate Squeel. May Also Require a Remote Resevior.

My Battles In the Past With Brake Boosters Was Always Getting Enough Vacuum for a Good Pedal! High Overlap Cams Make it Tough to Do That Especially With an Automatic.

Anyway Just Throwing That Out There!

Mgb,

KC

 

its right between 12-14 inHg where I hear the sound I’ll try and get a pic of it today when I can

 

Sounds Good!

That is Pretty Low. Perhaps it's Occuring Because of not Enough Vacuum!

We Can Explore & Figure Out! I would Be Curious if During Decel The Vacuum Goes Really High Due To Turbo as Well!

https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...Vacuum%20Gauge.

Check This Out! as An FYI.

https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...5306/related/1

Added Some FYI Pdf's on Brake Booster Issues.

KC
All Good No Power Outage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

so it looks like anything after 10inHg is when I start to hear a noise. I’m sitting about 12 in park and 10 in drive but no noise at 10inHg. More prominent sitting at idle or coasting about 35-40 mph at just about 2k rpm

 

Thats Really Sounding Like a Bad Booster. Is it New or Remanufactured and Did it Do it From Out of The Gate or Did it Take Awhile?? Brand?? Part Number?? Still Under Warranty From Manufacturer??

The Master Power Text Below indicates Low Vacuum Can Damage The Booster. The Vid Shows How To Test The Booster. If the Booster is Bad Again It Will Likely Continue and A Pump and Or Resivior Would Be Needed Unless Vacuum Can Be Brought Up To 16-18 In of Vacuum Thats What I'm Seeing at This Point.

KC

 

I'm Thinking The Low Vacuum is Causing Damage to Booster.

Symptoms of Brake Booster Failure

Power brake boosters use vacuum from the engine, or a standalone pump, to assist in slowing down the vehicle as you depress the brakes. This makes the brake pedal much easier to press down and improves the braking response of the vehicle. Every component must complete its job without fail or the brake booster will not be able to apply the right amount of pressure. When this happens, you might notice the following symptoms.

• 1. Brake Pedal Hard to Press

When fully operational and everything is correct within the system, the brake booster will make the brake pedal feel much easier to press when applying the brakes in an effort to stop the vehicle. It won’t necessarily make the brakes better which most people think but it will definitely make the car more enjoyable to drive and stop.

When the system stops working right, however, you must apply that additional pressure to the brake pedal to activate the brakes. So, when the booster starts to fail, you will likely notice that the pedal is much harder to push down.

• 2. Extended Stopping Distance

Without the brake booster’s assistance, the power of your braking system is greatly compromised. As this occurs, you may notice that your vehicle’s stopping distance has increased by several feet or more. This problem is likely to continue to worsen until the brake booster problems are properly addressed.

• 3. Engine Stalls While Braking

If the seals inside the brake booster have failed, the system may try to pull more vacuum from the engine to compensate. At a certain point, the excess draw will cause the engine to stall out as you depress the brake pedal. With so much vacuum pressure flowing through the system, this can even cause brake fluid to end up inside the booster, as can damage to the seals in the master cylinder.

If you notice any of these problems, it is important to track down the problem and perform all necessary repairs. Driving around with a failing or bad brake booster is quite dangerous, as it can lead to complete brake failure down the road.

RELATED: Carbon Fiber Brake Boosters are Next

How to Fix Power Brake Booster Problems

Fixing a power brake booster generally means replacing the booster. How you go about doing that is based on the booster's design. Some older designs will come apart with common hand tools, but many are put together with a crimped design, making it impossible without special tools and equipment. If the booster is indeed bad and keeping the original is a must, there are services that will rebuild your existing unit; however, replacement is generally the best choice.

The symptoms described above can lead one to think that the brake booster is indeed bad. There are, however, other things that can be causing a brake booster to appear defective.

The fix may be quite simple.

Possible Reasons for Power Brake Booster Failure

Be sure to check the following when diagnosing the problem:

• 1. Low vacuum pressure from the engine

• 2. Failed check valve or grommet at the booster

• 3. Incorrect or disconnected vacuum hose

 

 

brand new from LMR it’s their like 2009-2014 gt500 brake booster. Their website says it’s a direct fit replacement and i did the replacement within the week I got it I’m trying to contact them and see if they recommend a replacement or something else. But man I sure hope it’s not another bad booster especially from the factory, quality control and general quality is **** now I’ve broken so many valve cover bolts by hand it’s ridiculous. But I’ll go ahead and check out those videos and test it

 

Well the 500 Booster Should be The Way To Go. Boosters Usually Last Quite awhile. I Did See Where Turbo Cars Can Be Hard on Them Due To Contamination. Read it While gleening Info on your Particular Issue. Lmk How The Test Goes! Wish We Could Figure Out an Easier Fix For You!

That is a Genuine Ford Part and Has a 24 Month Unlimited Miles Warranty So That is Good News!

Mgb,

Kc

 

Shop Manual on Brake BoosterBrake Booster

1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum sensor/check valve from the brake booster and connect a suitable vacuum/pressure tester to the booster side of the vacuum sensor/check valve.

1. Apply the parking brake, start the engine and place the transmission in NEUTRAL.
   • Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.

1. NOTE: Subtract approximately 3.38 kPa (1 in-Hg) from the specified reading for every 304.8 m (1,000 ft) of elevation above sea level.
   Verify that vacuum is available at the vacuum sensor/check valve with engine running at normal idle speed.
   • The vacuum gauge should read between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg).
   • If specified vacuum is available, stop the engine, connect the vacuum sensor/check valve and continue with Step 5.
   • If specified vacuum is not available, continue with Step 4.

1. Disconnect the vacuum sensor/check valve from the vacuum hose and verify that the specified vacuum is available at the hose with the engine at idle speed and the transmission in NEUTRAL.
   • If specified vacuum is available, stop the engine, install a new vacuum sensor/check valve and continue with Step 5.
   • If specified vacuum is not available, stop the engine, connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum sensor/check valve and refer to Section 303-00 to diagnose the no/low vacuum condition.
   • On vehicles equipped with a brake vacuum pump, if specified vacuum is not available, inspect the vacuum hose and install new as necessary. If vacuum hose is OK, install a new brake vacuum pump. Refer to Section 206-07.

1. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all vacuum from the system.

1. Apply the brake pedal and hold it in the applied position. Start the engine and verify that the brake pedal moves downward after the engine starts.
   • If the brake pedal moves, the brake booster is operating correctly.
   • If the brake pedal does not move, install a new brake booster. Refer to Section 206-07.

1. Operate the engine a minimum of 20 seconds at idle. Stop the engine and let the vehicle stand for 10 minutes, then apply the brake pedal. The brake pedal feel should be the same as that noted with the engine operating.
   • If the brake pedal feels hard (no power assist), install a new brake booster vacuum sensor/check valve and retest.
   • If condition still exists, install a new brake booster. Refer to Section 206-07.
   • If the brake pedal feels the same as noted with the engine operating, the vacuum sensor/check valve is functioning properly.

 

Quick question so I’m sitting at 7,198 feet so I’ll need to subtract 7inHg from my readings so at idle if I’m reading 13inHg it’s actually 6inHg?

 

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...0level.Because engine vacuum is based on comparison with atmospheric pressure, it varies with altitude just as atmospheric (barometric) pressure does. The following table shows that as altitude increases, vacuum decreases about 1 inch for every 1000 feet above sea level.

Inches of Altitude Vacuum

Sea level-1000 ft. 18-22

1000-2000 ft. 17-21

2000-3000 ft. 16-20

3000-4000 ft. 15-19

4000-5000 ft. 14-18

5000-6000 ft. 13-17

Normal manifold vacuum at idle for an engine in good condition is about 18 to 22 in.-Hg. Manufacturers used to publish vacuum specs in service manuals, but this isn't as common as it was years ago. Still, the physics of internal combustion haven't changed in a hundred years, so the guidelines given here are a good starting point for vacuum gauge troubleshooting. Your best analysis based on vacuum readings will come from your own experience, however. As you use a vacuum gauge on different engines, you'll learn what's typical for one model compared to another. Some engines have reputations as low-vacuum motors; others are unusually higher than average. Experience is your best teacher.


For a Good Reference Point Check a Good Running Stock Vehicle! Any Model Should Do!

So If Test Vehicle Has 14" Or Whatever For Warmed Up Idle Vacuum and So Does Your car Then You Have Operable Vacuum For Your Altitude.

I am at 322 Ft So I Never Have Had to Deal with High Altitude Issues!



KC

 

I wish I was at 322 ft haha everything is such a hassle being so high up. But I think running a vacuum pump is going to be my solution. I’d prefer to run a vacuum canister to reduce overall noise but I’m not sure if it’ll work out like the vacuum pump will. And hopefully there’s no damage to my booster so I can just add the pump

 

I Would Mount The Pump as Far Away From the Cabin As Possible.

Maybe Behind Bumper. Needs To Be Rubber Insulated or They Can Vibrate & Rattle!

Use a Relay With Power Turn On and Don't Tie into Anything Related To Audio or Hvac as You Could Get Interference.

Dare I Say Vacuum Issues Suck!

Best of Luck on the Fix!

I Would Go Gentle on the Item & Box Incase it Does Not Do the Trick and You Can Return it!

Did You Do A Vacuum test on Another Vehicle??



Don't Know How Powerful But Amazon is Usually Easy on Returns!

Wonder if a Ford Diesel Vacuum Pump Would Do The Trick?? CHEAP!

Probably Not Very Noisy! Just a Thought!



Plus Pigtail!

 

I wasn’t able to vacuum test another vehicle but from searching it looks like they normally make more vacuum than I am now. My tuner hasn’t ran into this problem and didn’t have a suggestion but I was able to go thru with a replacement booster from LMR and I ordered the vacuum pump as well. I tried a vacuum canister but it didn’t help. Hopefully this will help, any recommendations for where to connect the pump?

 

If It's Noisy As Far Away as Possible. {Bumper Area}. If It's Quiet Wherever its Out of the Way and Not Close to A Heat Sourse. You Can Power it Up and See How Much Racket it Makes. Make Sure and Use Top Quality Hose. I Don't Think Distance Will Be an Issue. You Can Check With a Short Piece of Hose and a Long For Vacuum Reading. Try To Position it For Some airflow to Keep Cool! If Mounted to Metal Surface Insulate With a Piece Of Rubber. I would Use Vacuum Can As Well With Pump. You May Need To Experament With Pump By itself/ Can and or Engine Vacuum & Can/Pump. See What Instructions Say With Your Particular Pump. But Be Open To Try All Variations to Get Best Reading. May Have to test Different Check Valve Locations as Well For Best Results.

Further Checking on Valve Shows Single Nipple on Different Sites On 2015 Part. So That Was a Good Idea While it Lasted!

One Like The Pic Might Be a Way To Go if Tee'ing Lines Becomes an Issue!

Just Trying to Prepare You For Different Scenario's!

I think I'm Done Editing!

Mgb,

KC