Search the forums, it's been discussed several times.

 

We are just giving you a hard time, no need to get upset.

 

did you register your mustang?

 

Haha I'm not upset at all. I was merely pointing out that many topics in this section don't even get looked at unless they're about someone's order or some conspiracy theory. And if there wasn't so much garbage on the first two pages of this section, maybe the original oil change thread would still be on page 1!

Ok, carry on

 

Oil, filters, and the frequency they should be changed can be debated all day long. There are entire websites dedicated to it. The way I understand it (commence flaming now), the only risk to changing oil too often is that you waste money.

The Motorcraft 5w20 syn-blend is pretty good stuff, and it's relatively cheap. Same goes for Motorcraft filters. I don't think the $25 for the oil change is a good place to try to save money. So yeah, I am likely changing the oil before I truly need to; but so what? It's cheap insurance.

 

I'll be going by Ford's recommendations. I know a lot of people are skeptical about the recommendations but I'm not. By recommending that you change it less frequently than really necessary, they sell fewer filters and less oil, plus open themselves up to complaints that their engines don't last as long as they should. I see no motive for them to issue recommendations for 10,000 mile intervals (depending on conditions) when the oil really needs to be changed at 3,000-5,000 miles.

 

I agree. Been using oil analysis for years on heavy equipment. If I had concerns about the IOLM I would just send off a sample for analysis to confirm its accurate.

1st OCI - 1,000 miles with Motorcraft Blend
2nd OCI - 4,000 miles with Motorcraft Blend
3rd OCI - Will be at 30% with Pennzoil Platinum
4th OCI - Will be at 0% with Pennzoil Platinum.

IOLM shows 96% at 900 miles and 39 days. Considering only about 180 miles of that are interstate and Ive bounced off the limiter a fair number of times testing to solve my clutch issue it cant be to conservative.

How can it be 96% at 39 days and 900 miles if maximum interval 365 days and 10,000 miles? Seems like it should be 89% or 91%.
It must suddenly drop to 0% at 10,000 miles or 12 months? Likely to discourage people from changing to early.

 

Gene, I am wondering if this thing does not work on a linear basis? It may stay up there for the first few miles and then start dropping fast? Say from 50 percent down? I dont know. It would be something good to ask a Ford engineer.

I think you can run any synthetic down to 0 pretty easy. Ford has enough confidence in motorcraft to go that distance. Dino oil is way way better than it used to be.

 

Its ok your wasting less money than the people using $5+ quart synthetics

I do like the blend from Motorcraft though esp. at the price.

 

When i try to register with my V.I.N., they tell me my car doesn't exist.

 

Wow, far more sophisticated than BMW which basically just does it by the amount of fuel the car uses.

 

I have been having trouble with the "sync my ride" system also . . . it did register my car, (but mine is a 2010 so maybe the 2011's aren't in the system yet) and then I ran the health check, but I never got the e-mail and the health check does not show up in the web site.

I contacted Ford via the instant chat, and the support person said they were having a problem with the web site that was supposed to be fixed by last Tuesday . . . but I haven't had a chance to try it again . . . he said it should show up after they fix the web site; but I haven't received any e-mail with the health check results; so I'm guessing I will have to do it again.

Had similar problem with the Sync software update -- I ran the update, but it did not register correctly in the web site, so I probably have to do it again.

 

I'll try it again from time to time.

As far as oil changes go, after the first three low mile oil changes i'll change mine (myself) every 3,000 miles even after i switch to full synthetic oil. I don't drive too many miles per year and it will take me on average, nine months to put 3,000 miles on my Mustang.

 

Use whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy. I might use synthetic myself for those coated buckets. Ive never heard of an issue on non-DI engines but having seen the valvetrain carnage that results when the extreme pressures from DI and the resulting shearing of the oil cause that coating to wear through they make me nervous.

 

Mobil 1 synthetic every 5K. Easy to remember, and I figure if I do it by the book, I'm good. Plus, the rotation is easier to remember. Next set at 55K, and I'll do the inspection too.

I don't rag the car, and it's driven normally, mostly, a generous mix of both city and highway. I got a place near me that takes good care of my baby's fluid change needs. Even helped me with the Royal Purple Synchromax, which they didn't have the ability to do... at first. But then they magically 'figured it out'.

Them boys are good, fast, clean, thorough, and I don't have to deal with the waste or get messy. And for the money, easy trade. Win.

 

Where are you taking your car?

Did that royal purple really help out the tranny?

 

I know the V-6 comes from the factory with a 'synthetic blend' motor oil. I thought the G.T. came with 'full synthetic' motor oil from the factory. Do they?

 

I have been unable to find any official Ford Statement that the Mustang GT 5.0 comes with Full Synthetic.
The owners manual has the same requirements as the 3.7L. Basically any name brand 5W-20 meets Ford Specs.
Based on the valvetrain the V6 should be harder on oil than the 5.0L.

As I understand it the trans fluid is Fuchs GL-4 Premium Synthetic Ford Spec M2C200-C. If your looking for it in the USA Ford is likely to be the only game in town that is SAE. Most manufacturers dont import their version to the USA (Limited Market). Thats a 75W-90 (Gear) or 10W-40 (Motor) Rating depending on which scale the manufacturer uses.

 

I was about to ask you about this Gene. Is it really worth it to run penz plat? Is not motor craft good enough? Not to start any crap but does it reallly matter??? I am with you on the synthetic thing but dang its expensive. Help me out here. Not trying to start a debate but man it gets expensive over the long haul. What is your thinking? I have done both things so I guess I am bi.

I would really liike your opinion.

 

Most synthetics are blended with an ad pack designed to go 50-300% longer than most conventionals.
Unless you extend the drain intervals their is no advantage to Synthetic unless you have a special case like General Extreme Oil Temps (Open Track), Localized Extreme Temps (Turbo Bearings) or Shearing or Gas Dilution (Direct Injection).

Based on the design of the 5.0L and the history of the Modulars which this engine still shares some design elements with It should be pretty easy on oil so I dont think Synthetic will be called for at shorter drain intervals.

The valvetrain design of the 3.7L makes me think it will be harder on oil.

If Im going to go to go to 0% and maybe 10,000 miles on some drains in the 5.0 the Full Synthetic just makes me feel better unless I run an analysis on the Motorcraft to convince myself that its up to it.

I have a bit more faith in extended drains than many here because Im used to heavy diesels going over a million miles on 30,000 mile changes of conventional 15W-40 or 60,000 mi changes of 5W-40 Synthetic. I remember when anything over 10,000 miles was considered foolhardy and the engines only lasted 600,000 miles. That said the additive package on those oils blow away what you see in car oils for the most part.

Bottom Line for me:
Without Analysis MC 5W20 SB at 30% or PP 5W-20 FS at 0%.