Hi All,

I would like suggestions for my 2013GT. I'm tired of wondering if my mechanic has done the job right and actually put in the expensive full synthetic I ask for. I've been burned before on changes with several places (one didn't replace the filter, the other didn't actually replace the oil, hah). So, I will be doing my own oil changes from now on.

I would like to know what you all use for ramps, oil and filter and filter wrench.

I usually put in Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic, but I have no idea what a good filter is these day.

Also the filter looks like it's in a tight spot so what style of filter wrench do you recommend? A band or end cap style?

 

I use a small/medium band type wrench.

 

I've used Craftsman jack stands, Rhino low profile ramps along with Harbor Freight low profile, hydraulic jack and always use Motorcraft full synthetic oil and Motorcraft oil filters with medium band, oil filter wrench.

 

Get yourself a form a funnel for under the filter when changing. This will direct the oil away from dripping all over the electronic connectors located right below. Most places won't do this and just soak everything.

 

Or put a gallon ziplock bag around the filter as you unscrew it.

 

There are tons of threads about oil changes and tips/tricks if you use the search function...

 

any full synthetic oil such as Pennzoil Platinum
Ford OEM or better yet the big FRPP filter, if you want premium filter . . . or any of the mid or high-range filters available at Walmart or wherever (avoid the cheap Fram filters, high end Fram are OK)
there should be enough room for the band wrench; but the end-cap style is easier if you can find one that fits the filter correctly (I can never seem to get one that fits)
low profile ramps such as Rhino or Race Ramps; or just use a stack of boards on the floor

 

So, in case anyone cares: after looking at suggestions here I am going to go with:

- Pennzoil Platinum (Walmart sells for $25/5q)
- Motorcraft filter: will look into the FRPP or other high end filters for next change.
- Band filter wrench
- form a funnel (huzzah!)

I looked into ramps too. I don't trust plastic ramps like Rhino, and race ramps and low profile metal ramps are way too expensive. So I will just build some ramps out of boards. Solid wood certainly won't collapse and only about $50 in lumber and hardware and an hour of my time. I'm checking the angles but I am will probably copy the dimensions of the RR 56 2 piece.

Probably going to swap my F-150 3.5EB over to PP too. With it that reasonably priced I see no reason to not use it especially since PP is designed for turbo engines.

 

Just so you know, I use Rhino ramps on the F550 front wheels at work and on my Mustang and F150 at home so they are built to actually handle 12,000 pounds.

 

Here are some nice plans for wood ramps.

 

Those look simple enough and no chance they could collapse if sufficiently pinned/screwed together.

 

I can also confirm the Rhino ramps are indeed very safe, very well constructed and just as Siber mentioned are built to handle up to 12,000 pounds.

Same here and I've used them for many years with no negative issues

 

Oh, I don't doubt properly manufactured, undamaged, and properly used rhino ramps will work.

I have a lot more confidence in a solid chunk of wood holding up my vehicle while I am under it. No hard to notice manufacturing defect or damage or age related wear will cause catastrophic failure.

 

Well I have far more skepticism concerning chunks of wood causing catastrophic failures, due to age related wear such as fatigue and splintering.. Can you honestly say with 100% certainty that a homemade ramp built from wooden chunks can actually handle up to 12,000 pounds? I don't think so.. Therefore, when it comes to personal safety, I always use caution and good old common sense by not only relying on just car ramps, but also using jack stands for reinforcements as well.

 

I agree one should use Jack stands for additional safety. However the wood ramps which are 2x10 planks which lay flat and I would think you could put as much or more on them as a Rino Ramp. I did look at the Rino Ramp reviews and there were failures. I realize one should take reviews with a grain of salt but seeing many complaints one should wonder.

 

Same can also be said for wooden planks attached together with wood screws, as I'm sure there's also been some complaints regarding wood ramp failures as well

 

I tried to find any failures with the design I showed by an internet search. There are some with other style wood ramps. Maybe I didn't look deep enough. There are plenty of ramp failures of ramps made of other materials.

 

No material is 100% fail proof.. There's always going to be a certain percentage of risk failure involved no matter what product the material is constructed from.. Just the way it is

 

A single tire holds up your vehicle with 30-35psi in your tire (with a contact patch of 20-30 in^2). Douglass Fir (common lumber wood) has a compression strength (perpendicular to the grain) of 700-800psi meaning it is about 20-30x stronger than necessary to hold up your vehicle when, for example, a 2x12 is laid flat on the ground. An average contact patch for a tire is about 25in^2 so your tire holds up ~875lb. That same contact patch, on a block of fir, could hold 17,500-20,000lb.

That said, redundancy, like you say, is the best policy.

 

If you were already aware of the compression strengths of lumber as being stronger than necessary to handle the weight of a vehicle, then what exactly was your purpose for requesting suggestions on car ramps, to begin with