no no no no lol. It's 5000 miles. First oil change is recommend at 3000 miles.

Wouldn't be surprized if the thicker oil is causing the tick bet 5w20 might fix it

 

Some have reported getting rid of the tick (AFM) after a swap to a full synthetic oil. I'm hoping this will be the case with your car as well.
I've noticed a quieter valvetrain when switching to Mobil1 5W30 EP. Oh, and i used a Motorcraft filter.

 

I'd switch out all your fluids. Oil with filter, tranny fluid and rear diff fluid. I don't wanna start so I'm only going to say chose what oil and filter YOU want. MY personal choice is 10w30 full synthetic with a RP or K&N filter. Redline MTL fluid for the tranny. RP 75w140 rear diff fluid with some additive. After doing all that your "tick" should go away.

 

I'm a little scared to swap my tranny fluid bc I have zero problems with it. I know these mt82s have their share of problems but mine shifts super smooth and I've never had any problems at all. Never even had trouble w/ getting into 1st or R like many have reported, and def no 2-3 shift issues. I might hold off on that for now, although every other car I've had, I went to redline. These mt82s just make me nervous and I feel lucky to be excluded from this issue thus far

 

Just to update... I still haven't been to my place in 3 days bc of work. I'll prob wind up doing the oil/filter/additive change this weekend. Bought RP 5w30, wix filter

 

http://media.ford.com/images/10031/2...g_GT_Specs.pdf

Oil capacity 8 quarts with filter (10,000-mile service interval)

Yeah that's where I got the 10,000 mile interval from.

 

I believe in the old school guideline of performing the 1st oil change at about 1,000 miles or soon thereafter (got my 2012 done @ about 1240 miles). I want to get those initial wear particles out of the engine. After that 1st change the factory-specified interval is fine, but I use full-synthetic since it's cheap insurance.

And that's yet another reason to perform that 1st change @ about 1000 - get the Dino oil out of there and get synthetic in the crankcase as soon as is reasonable. Ford has stated there is no special break-in oil in our cars, so there's no reason to leave it in there.

I know 5W-20 is practically water viscosity-wise but that's what I use (Pennzoil Platinum/Ultimate). I've not never had a problem with oil consumption or engine ticks or #8 going bad etc. My filter is the owner's manual-recommended FR-500S, but the other options discussed above are probably better. Wix is actually the filter fitted at the factory.

 

We dont recommend that at our dealership... The way some ppl drive their cars that just seams far tooo long....

 

You should probably clarify that when you tell people its 5,000. Since Ford says its 10,000 and your (or your dealership's) opinion is that based on the way you think people might be driving you think it seems too long lol.

The interval is the interval, I don't know anybody personally that would run oil in any car for 10,000 miles, especially not a high revving one like this. But the way I think some of the people on this board drive their oil might last 20,000 lol

 

Lol. Well every dealer is different. To me an engine is too valuable to try and push 10k. Id rather go for 3 k

 

Eric,
the oil brand you're using is NOT a "full" synthetic oil. It's a base stock group 3 dino oil, mixed with group 1V synthetic base. Full synthetic base stock group 1V would be :
Mobil 1 Extended performance
Amsoil signature series
Redline
Royal Purple
Lucas oil
Their maybe a few more, but these are the most known ones.

 

^^^^^this

 

Finally, someone agrees with me.

 

LOL, OK, I give up. Here's my story. For MANY years I used only Mobil-1. Then some BITOG geek on another forum 5 or 6 cars ago exposed Mobil-1 for the sham it was (group 3) and turns out the only IVs out there were Amsoil, Redline, a couple of others, and Pennz. Platinum (before they came out with "ultimate"). So now you're telling me the Pennzoil platinum is garbage and that Mobil-1 is once again the shizz (along with the others).

This is really frustrating. And I just flat-out refuse to pay Amsoil or Redline prices or deal with mail-order. Gimme the 5 qt. container at Wal-Mart for $23 please. Sorry if I am wrong (and I must be), but i have to pay for my childrens' braces & college tuition, etc too, and the Dino oil there isn't much cheaper (Castrol GT 5-qt is about $18).

 

Eric,
I like you didn't know much about oil, that is until i started reading about it at Bob's the oil guy site and reading some good informing threads from people in the know at other different sites like SVT performance just to name that one.
Regular Mobil1 synthetic, is not a "true" synthetic oil, like i mentionned before it is a blend of dino oil and base synthetic. It makes for a good oil no doubt, but it is not "fully" synthetic.
On the other hand, Mobil1 Extended performance ( look for it on the label) is a "true" 100% synthetic oil, just like all the other ones i've mentionned in my post above.
I even i got the regular Mobil1 synthetic when doing my first oil change thinking i was getting the "real" stuff. Wrong i was !
Don't sweat it, keep the oil you have in there, it is good oil. But next time you'll know what to get. Just trying to be informative here, not trying to tell you to dump your new oil.
When in N-H this past week end, went to Walmart and checked out their prices on oil , their big jug of Mobil1 EP was about $25-28 or so, which compare to here is a steal. They retail at $51 cdn over here for the 4.4L ( 1L =1Quart), i got it on special for $38.

 

Just curious... What is soooo amazing about full synthetic? Is it just a fancy name? Old school regular oil worked for years. Why all of a sudden is it junk?

 

I'll throw you guys a bone. Here's a pic of the stock (at least on my Boss built 5/13/11), the FL-500S, and the FL-820S.

 

The 820 has more *** but what's the flow rate difference between the three filters ?

 

No idea.

 

Can you quote me on where i said it was junk !
There are lots of very good oils out there, but there is also the better stuff, which is a "full" synthetic group 1V oil, but sometimes labels can be misleading if you don't know to interpret them.

Informative facts :


Synthetic motor oils are fuel efficient, extended life lubricants manufactured from select base stocks and special purpose additives. Synthetic oil base stocks are made from organic compounds or synthetic hydrocarbons using a process that re-arranges the structure so all the molecules are uniform in size, shape and weight, a phenomenon that does not occur in nature. In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed to produce, in effect, the ideal lubricant.

In responding to the objections most commonly raised against synthetics it is important to establish the parameters of the debate. When speaking of synthetic motor oils, this article is defending the lubricants which have been formulated to meet the performance standards set by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (The first such synthetic motor oil independently tested and confirmed to meet these industry-accepted tests for defining engine oil properties and performance characteristics was AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-40 in 1972.)

Many people with questions about synthetics haven't known where to turn to get correct information. Is it super oil or snake oil? Some enthusiasts will swear that synthetics are capable of raising your car from the dead. On the other hand, the next fellow asserts that synthetics will send your beloved car to an early grave. Where's the truth in all this?

In an effort to set the record straight, we've assembled here ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it's 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) the oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines, oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high-quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil 1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperature and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things can happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gum and varnish. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital component protection.

Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow into critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge -- ingested dirt and water dilution -- can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum motor oils are similar compounds and neither is damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. In fact, because engines tend to run cleaner with synthetics, sensors and emission control systems run more efficiently and with less contamination.

Myth#8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. Major engine manufacturers specifically recommend the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example, SJ/CF). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty.

In point of fact, in the twenty-eight years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution, and the by-products of combustion (acids and soot) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic engine oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. This more than offsets initial price differences. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical than conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

CONCLUSIONS

Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.

But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.