Oil
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Bullitt Member
Joined: January 11, 2011
Posts: 269
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From: New jersey
Oil
I have a 2011 mustang v6 and just got an oil change they told me I have to use synthetic oil is this true? I had some people say it's not needed. I told them to go ahead I wasn't going to take. Chance but I was curious
legacy Tms Member MEMORIAL Rest In Peace 10/06/2021
Joined: September 16, 2009
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From: Clinton Tennessee
Our Mustangs come with Motorcraft 'synthetic blend' from the factory. After the break-in, i'm now using Motorcraft 'full synthetic' motor oil.
Post *****
Joined: December 14, 2007
Posts: 19,953
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
I recommend the dealer if you don't do it yourself.
My Ford dealer uses the Motorcraft 5w-20 synth blend. (I've got the 4.6L) If you watch for coupons, the dealer isn't much more than the other places. And I've heard horror stories about the mistakes kids at Jiffy Lube and other chains have made from wrong fluids, stripping the drain plug, filter errors, etc.
And apparently it is important to stick with Motorcraft filters because of the check valve they use.
Here's from a quick google: There's prob more info available.
This is what Ford has to say about NON-Ford filters and Warranty work.
Engine Damage / Non-Ford Oil Filters - All Model Years, All Vehicles
A review of warranty claims indicates that engine damage caused by defective non-Ford oil filters is being claimed under Ford warranty.
The check valves in some non-Ford filters disintegrate causing small rubber debris (frequently red color) to migrate into the engine's oil passages where they restrict flow. This restriction causes components (such as the variable cam timing phaser) to fail, and causes engine knocking / ticking /rattles.
Please reference:
SSM #18921 (Published: 11/03/05)
SSM #19642 (Published: 03/01/07)
TSB #06-19-08
Repair of engine damage caused by defective non-Ford oil filters is not covered per Section 3 of the Warranty & Policy Manual.
Category: Powertrain – Engine
Do: Look for bits of rubber (frequently red color) when repairing damaged engines.
Don't: Submit a warranty claim for damage caused by defective non-Ford oil filters.
Engine Damage / Non-Ford Oil Filters - All Model Years, All Vehicles
A review of warranty claims indicates that engine damage caused by defective non-Ford oil filters is being claimed under Ford warranty.
The check valves in some non-Ford filters disintegrate causing small rubber debris (frequently red color) to migrate into the engine's oil passages where they restrict flow. This restriction causes components (such as the variable cam timing phaser) to fail, and causes engine knocking / ticking /rattles.
Please reference:
SSM #18921 (Published: 11/03/05)
SSM #19642 (Published: 03/01/07)
TSB #06-19-08
Repair of engine damage caused by defective non-Ford oil filters is not covered per Section 3 of the Warranty & Policy Manual.
Category: Powertrain – Engine
Do: Look for bits of rubber (frequently red color) when repairing damaged engines.
Don't: Submit a warranty claim for damage caused by defective non-Ford oil filters.
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 22, 2011 at 03:00 PM.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: January 25, 2010
Posts: 3,972
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From: Massachusetts
Take a look at this thread for a big discussion of the topic:
https://themustangsource.com/f726/mobile-one-490467/
Probably the best answer to that is to go by the oil life meter that is built in to the car; check out your owners manual for how to read it.
Basically the more the better but there is a piont of "diminishing returns" meaning it doesn't make much difference . . . 3000 is generally sooner than needed except in extreme conditions, but many oil change places still recommend that because it makes them more money. 5000-7500 is probably about what the oil life meter will tell you.
When I was younger I changed my own oil to save money . . . then I started having other people do it for the convenience . . . but the problem is you never know what they are actually doing to your car . . . so now I'm back to doing it myself so I know what was done and save money too.
https://themustangsource.com/f726/mobile-one-490467/
Basically the more the better but there is a piont of "diminishing returns" meaning it doesn't make much difference . . . 3000 is generally sooner than needed except in extreme conditions, but many oil change places still recommend that because it makes them more money. 5000-7500 is probably about what the oil life meter will tell you.
When I was younger I changed my own oil to save money . . . then I started having other people do it for the convenience . . . but the problem is you never know what they are actually doing to your car . . . so now I'm back to doing it myself so I know what was done and save money too.
Last edited by Bert; Jan 23, 2011 at 07:21 AM. Reason: typo
legacy Tms Member MEMORIAL Rest In Peace 10/06/2021
Joined: September 16, 2009
Posts: 3,381
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From: Clinton Tennessee
Nicole, look at your oil filter to see what brand they used. I hope they didn't install a Fram fiter 
.
.
Last edited by David Young; Jan 23, 2011 at 11:51 AM.
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Joined: January 23, 2011
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That sounds to me like a quick oil change place?
I recommend the dealer if you don't do it yourself.
My Ford dealer uses the Motorcraft 5w-20 synth blend. (I've got the 4.6L) If you watch for coupons, the dealer isn't much more than the other places. And I've heard horror stories about the mistakes kids at Jiffy Lube and other chains have made from wrong fluids, stripping the drain plug, filter errors, etc.
And apparently it is important to stick with Motorcraft filters because of the check valve they use.
Here's from a quick google: There's prob more info available.
I recommend the dealer if you don't do it yourself.
My Ford dealer uses the Motorcraft 5w-20 synth blend. (I've got the 4.6L) If you watch for coupons, the dealer isn't much more than the other places. And I've heard horror stories about the mistakes kids at Jiffy Lube and other chains have made from wrong fluids, stripping the drain plug, filter errors, etc.
And apparently it is important to stick with Motorcraft filters because of the check valve they use.
Here's from a quick google: There's prob more info available.
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Joined: January 8, 2005
Posts: 197
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From: philly
that TSB that was posted is a 100% right. Esp fram junk. the dealer i work at, had a lot of motors with problems because of cheap filters. spend the extra $$$ and use ford 5/20 blend and a motorcraft filter. if u wanna save a little bit, buy it at walmart. Autozone and some other chains carry it too.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: January 11, 2011
Posts: 269
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From: New jersey
Originally Posted by David Young
Nicole, look at your oil filter to see what brand they used. I hope they didn't install a Fram fiter .
.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: January 11, 2011
Posts: 269
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From: New jersey
I'll start going to the dealer from now on. I paid more then the dealer charges anyway. Thanks for the info. I joined this forum for all this good info. I'm not great with the technical stuff with my car. So thank you all for all the help it's much appreciated!!!
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From: In Boredom
that TSB that was posted is a 100% right. Esp fram junk. the dealer i work at, had a lot of motors with problems because of cheap filters. spend the extra $$$ and use ford 5/20 blend and a motorcraft filter. if u wanna save a little bit, buy it at walmart. Autozone and some other chains carry it too.
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From: saskatoon
Originally Posted by shadowstang03gt
that TSB that was posted is a 100% right. Esp fram junk. the dealer i work at, had a lot of motors with problems because of cheap filters. spend the extra $$$ and use ford 5/20 blend and a motorcraft filter. if u wanna save a little bit, buy it at walmart. Autozone and some other chains carry it too.
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Joined: December 21, 2010
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From: NoVA
Please elaborate - I am planning on doing my first oil change and would like to know the ideal weight to use (been thinking 5W20 - well, only because the manual says so).
Post *****
Joined: December 14, 2007
Posts: 19,953
Likes: 4
From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
It would be different if you were racing and living at redline all day.
I know it seems light (back in the day multi-weights got the same criticism over straight 30w), and I could understand going to 5w-30 after you've got a lot of miles on it where tolerances have loosened a tad, but Ford engineers know how they designed the engine - and back it with a warranty.
Besides, most wear occurs on cold start up.
Plus - the radiator/cooling system is designed to prevent the engine & oil from overheating and thinning beyond spec, right?
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 24, 2011 at 12:52 PM.
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Joined: January 4, 2011
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From: Northern VA
As cdynaco said...follow your manual. Ford has been using 5w-20 in a lot of their vehicles for years now and the engines are lasting longer than ever. I've been using 5w-20 in my F-150 (FMC syn-blend and FMC filter) for over 7 years and it runs just as well today as the day I bought it. I change the oil every 5k miles and use my truck hard (like a truck shoud be used). I've never had a single problem. When I get my 5.0 delivered in a couple weeks...only FMC 5w-20 is going in the crankcase.