I need some ideas. As many of you know, I had surgery last week on my left foot to install a 50mm screw since my “Jones Fracture” (5th metatarsal) was not healing. The recovery time from this surgery until I can walk (or drive a stick) again (as if anything about this injury has been “on time”) is late July/August. I haven’t driven my 6MT 2011 ‘vert since mid-Febuary (but my wife has). It's currently parked in my garage with Sta-Bil in the tank.

I found this great little 1993 Toyota Corolla with an automatic & A/C to drive in the interim, 237K miles, but it’s running very strong. and my wife is happy to have her van back.

Here’s the thing: I already had left knee surgery in 1995 and my left leg is now wasting away from non-use thanks to this fracture (What’ll it be like in August, you know?). While I love a 6MT, thanks to this degenerative joint disease the 6AT is looking better all the time, and my wife thinks that's what I should have nought to begin with.

So I read with great interest that Ford just announced Sonic Blue (SB) will be “Late Availability” for 2012! I wanted a blue GT originally, but didn’t like Kona (too dark) or Grabber (too light). So when I got my ’11 I got Performance White thinking I’d add blue Shelby Stripes later, which never panned out.

So here is what I am thinking: Sell or trade my white ’11 ‘vert 6MT and get a 2012 6AT GT coupe with EP, 401A, comfort pkg, and spoiler delete (to add GT500 spoiler later). The base wheels are fine with me. I’d maybe switch to the Brembo pkg or SVT wheels later. My wife is surprisingly 99% behind this plan, so you know I am serious!

What’s vexing me is HOW to do it? I’d have to order the 6AT and have no idea when it would show up. I LOVE my ‘vert. It’d be HARD to let it go without the ’12 to replace it, but let’s face it, my convertible will be worth even less in August than it is now (at $41,075 sticker with options and 8,000 garage-kept miles, I figure it’d fetch $31k-$32k now). I know the 2010 coupe 5AT with EP loaner car I drove last summer convinced me that the coupe is how I should’ve gone, and the automatic shifted like lightning), but I am frozen with fear and uncertainty.

The good news is that I have this Toyota to drive in the interim as long as it holds up. So I have options. But I miss my GT. My dealer is fair, but I feel I need to know what I am doing to make the best moves logistically for me.

Any ideas how to best accomplish this switcheroo, or should I not do it & just be patient?

 

Well, I think you have to make the actual decision on if to switch or not. That's gotta be your call. It sounds like the AT might work better with your condition though. The best thing you can do is just call up your dealer and see what kind of deal you can work out. Let them know you're just in the "thinking about it" stage and go from there. Maybe call multiple dealers.

Would you be happy with getting an '11 if they can find one for you? That might make the cost of the switch easier to tolerate and could make the decision easier.

 

A word of advice; order it with the base spoiler instead of a delete. This way, you won't have to worry about additional holes on the decklid. It'll make your life easier when/if you decide to change to the GT500 spoiler down the road.

 

If you want the new color, then i would start trying to sell your car. You will see more money out of it. As you said the sonic blue wont be out for till later 2012. That would put you in a better spot, and with less money loss. You could throw it on Ebay to start, and take out an ad. You are right, this is the time to sell a conv. You can see what the dealer would give you to start, then try to get more out of it on your own. Ronn

 

Sorry to hear of your medical issues, 1st off!! That's why I drive my AT, though! Kinda along those lines. After my about 6 months of laying in hospital bed not being able to move, I lost all my muscles! I got enough strength back to work a clutch, still.

On losing your vert, I drove my 95 vert from 8/2/03 to 10/3/10, top back as long as no form of precip. In winter, top back just wore a light jacket. Since buying my Coupe, I don't miss that @ all!! That's me, though!

Best bet might be to find guy like on here that will but it? That way they'll know it's a great ride. Just do what you need to do.

 

Here is an option, just a thought...you are purchasing the 'vert, right? Paid $41k+? So it sounds like you have good enough credit and income to have some good financing options. You will take a big hit on trade, obviously. Selling it may be a hassle, but get you more money, but probably not enough to pay off the 'vert. Either way, you will be upside down in the new automatic. But that is better than being unable to enjoy the car at all. Sorry, just thinking out loud, stating the obvious.

Did you buy with x-plan? If not, that will save some money on the new car if you join MCA. Look into leasing the new one - if they will accept the trade and work the negative into you new car loan - add x-plan to counteract some of the depreciation on the 2011 - and most likely end up with a lease payment close to the payment you currently have on the 2011.

There is a $5000 (plus/minus) difference for the 'vert, so you are already saving that much on the new one, plus you are limiting your options, so your new ride will probably be in the $36k range, right? So hopefully, you won't have to roll too many thousands into the new car. Plus if you didn't use x-plan before but use it now, that may bring you closer to even.

It is usually miles, not time that hurts resale more. So holding onto it until the dealership actually has a car you want (and they want to get rid of) as opposed to ordering one, as long as you keep the miles low, your car should still be attractive as a trade. Maybe hint to a sales guy the car you want - they can order it as a stock car instead of special order, then when it is there, you will have more negotiating power.

 

Get a firm trade number so you'll know the worst case scenario. Order the new car when available and you'll have a few months to sell the Current vert at some number over the Trade offer.. If you can't sell it, you'll know where you stand when the new one comes in..

 

I concur. GT500 spoiler will use same holes as base spoiler. No drilling, templates, etc ... when you are ready for GT500.

 

Thanks for that advice - I thought it as the other way around. There's NO DOUBT in my mind that the combo I want (eventually) is the GT500 rear spoiler, GT/CS front fascia, and boss splitter.

I definitely want the Sonic Blue, which means ordering a new 2012. And waiting.

I have X-plan thru my employer, which is how I bought my $41,100 vert for $37,100 (also used my $750 coupon). The electronics package would drive up the cost of the 2012, but I know just what options I want now (EP, 401A, Comfort, maybe white over-the-top stripes). I figure going with the base wheels will in saving $1000, but the $1100 6AT option will negate that.

 

I'd order the '12 on X-plan - you don't know that the dealer will stock one you want or not, and I'm not sure how successful you'd be getting them to order yours for dealer stock. Sonic blue is hot though, it's made me want to jump the gun on mine more than once, seeing as my 02 is already that color . And with all these delays in the order process, esp. for the Elec. package, you'll have plenty time to find a nice new home for the 'vert. Best of luck and keep us posted, let us know your impressions after you own the 6R80 and the MT82.

 

Double EDad- Sorry to hear about your condition. I can relate. I went with the 6AT after having a knee surgery a few years ago. I became a believer in the Autos after I put a Lentech AOD in my 93 Notchback. I've had manuals my entire life though; SS Camaros... etc. You will not be disappointed with this move. These Autos are great and with a Steeda tune they're amazing. I also have the X plan and my auto. trans. option was only $900. You may take a hit but like another poster said, the longer you sit on it the longer it will depreciate. With that said, don't rush into the dealer and let them know the 6At is a must because of your knee. They will take advantage of that. Casually mention that you're interested in a 6AT so your wife can drive it more...or whatever bs you can think of. Just let them think that you are happy driving your manual for the next 10 years if they aren't close to making it a decent deal. Accept that you are going to take a hit; just don't let them put you on the wrong end of prison sex in doing so.

 

So far I cannot seem to get ahold of my salesman. He wasn't there yesterday, and a routing to his voice mail cut off my phone call. Today they said he was there, but was with a customer, so I got his voice mail (successfully) and told him I wanted to "talk to (him) about buying a new car". That was almost FOUR HOURS AGO, and he's yet to call me back!!

I talked to him last August about trading in my then 2 month-old 4000-mile 'vert for a Brembo pkg Kona Blue coupe (glad I didn't do that now, I'd be in the same boat with the mandatory-with Brembo 6MT). He seemed disinterested then, and they only offered me $32K for my car. I can't imagine they'd offer me more now.

The other question is whether my deer hit (in Sept '10) repair is on Carfax for my car. The repair is virtually perfect and I was very happy with it; you'd only know it if I pointed out the slight variation in fender/hood gap whereas it was perfect before. They used all Ford OEM parts, etc, etc. So that's a bit of a wild card, even tho my car has been 100% garage kept and hardly ever driven in inclement weather.

 

Another consideration to take on whether to trade or sell it yourself is sales tax. I don't know how it is in your state, but here you only pay tax on the difference between the amount of the trade and the price of the new car.

For example, if they are giving you 30K trade in and the car you're buying is 40K, you're only paying tax on 10K. If you sold the car yourself and bought the new one, you'd pay sales tax on the entire 40K which is thousands of dollars. You'd have to be able to get that amount more out of a private sale over trade just to break even, not to mention the headache of selling it yourself and how long that might take.

 

I agree with above post on the sales tax if it applies. Thing is you need to dump vert before July 4th (seems the market always tanks on verts after that date) so either you need to get new car ordered and a firm trade price or you need to get cracking on retailing it to someone.

As far as the carfax, if the repair was done by a reputable shop and through insurance it will more then likely show up. If you trade I dont think the dealer will check ahead of the trade in but a potential buyer may. I would also check with at least one other dealer on trade value if for nothing else to keep your dealer honest.
My last mustang was an auto and with a tune it's amazing how fun it is to bark the tires in second and third hehe...
Good luck

 

Also keep this in mind if you start trying to negotiate a trade in price..

http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/...ces-rise_n.htm

Used car prices hit an all time high in April.

 

Hadn't thought of this before. Not sure if this holds true in Virginia, but I'll find out. Virginia's rule of charging 3% tax every time a car changes hands is criminal I think.

With the X-Plan pricing the new car price is basically set. The variable is the trade-in price. Like I said, last August they offered me $32k on a trade, which I declined. But Kelly Blue Book says that my car's trade-in value in Excellent condition is $34K and still more than $32K in "good" condition. So something's got to give.

Dealer guy called me back, just as we were starting dinner (of course), claiming they were busy delivering a bunch of cars on order that had come in and were very busy. Told him I'd call him back.

I am going to miss the 'vert. But this is getting exciting. The EP is something I'll use every day, but the vert is not. Not looking forward to re-installing the stock mufflers....

 

Here you don't pay sales tax on a used car you buy from an individual (although I think they are trying to pass something like you mentioned there), but you do if you buy it from a dealer. In the example I used earlier you would be paying 7% sales tax. If you traded you would be paying $700 in sales tax on the 10K difference, if you sold the car yourself and bought the new one you would be paying $2800 in sales tax on the 40k. You would have to get $2100 more than they offered you trade in to break even by selling it yourself.

I'd definitely check into how it works in your state so you can avoid taking a bigger hit on it than you already will be.

 

Do it! And get the Glass Roof too...it will help you not miss the Vert

 

In Texas you pay 6.25% everytime the ^car changes hands. So there's a lot of lying going on at the tax office.

Also works the same on trade ins. You only pay sales tax on the difference.

But you do get to claim it on your income taxes. Doesn't make it worth it by anyeans though.

 

How about 8.75% here in CA