My Apologies to Justin and VMP
My Apologies to Justin and VMP
So most of you that frequent this sub-forum the issues I have been having and my attempts at putting the blame on VMP and Justin's tunes.
I had gotten another email from Justin today where he thought it was accel pedal still, something was wrong with it. And I started to believe it more because when you look at the logs with the accel pedal to the floor it techinically is only 60% depressed. So when I got home from work i decided to take a look. There appeared to be a hard foam block that I assume is to prevent the accel pedal to much travel where it would break it. So I cut the darn thing to let the pedal actually travel all the way. Go in the car and did a log.
HOLY CRAP HOW LONG HAS IT BEEN LIKE THIS???????????
Completely different car.. When its to the floor the pedal travels to 99.5% which is close enough for me. The log shows that the car is suppose to do exactly what its suppose to now that everything is working properly. A/F goes to where its suppose to at WOT.
Since its an auto I did a turn around put it into 2nd, and nailed the gas, did a burn out starting in second...HOLY MOSES.
So I would like to apologize for anything wrong i said about Justin and VMP. Wasn't my fault, wasn't his fault. Seemed to be a pedal issue and it not traveling far enough.
Here is a picture of what im talking about.
I had gotten another email from Justin today where he thought it was accel pedal still, something was wrong with it. And I started to believe it more because when you look at the logs with the accel pedal to the floor it techinically is only 60% depressed. So when I got home from work i decided to take a look. There appeared to be a hard foam block that I assume is to prevent the accel pedal to much travel where it would break it. So I cut the darn thing to let the pedal actually travel all the way. Go in the car and did a log.
HOLY CRAP HOW LONG HAS IT BEEN LIKE THIS???????????
Completely different car.. When its to the floor the pedal travels to 99.5% which is close enough for me. The log shows that the car is suppose to do exactly what its suppose to now that everything is working properly. A/F goes to where its suppose to at WOT.
Since its an auto I did a turn around put it into 2nd, and nailed the gas, did a burn out starting in second...HOLY MOSES.
So I would like to apologize for anything wrong i said about Justin and VMP. Wasn't my fault, wasn't his fault. Seemed to be a pedal issue and it not traveling far enough.
Here is a picture of what im talking about.
Last edited by rmurer; Jul 9, 2014 at 08:40 PM.
side note i didn't remove all of it as you can see just enough to where the pedal when pressed all the way down will travel to 100% without issue.
Yes i know this probably wasn't the SMARTEST way to fix it but seriously with all the frustration i was going to, I said F it.
The logs show everthing is now how it should be.
Yes i know this probably wasn't the SMARTEST way to fix it but seriously with all the frustration i was going to, I said F it.
The logs show everthing is now how it should be.
Last edited by rmurer; Jul 9, 2014 at 08:41 PM.
I found this a few years back on some old posts concerning throttle lag and recalibrating the throttle after battery disconnect for the 4.6L3V.
Recalibrate fly by wire throttle:
1. Turn on car without starting the engine
2. Wait till most the dash lights go out (seems like two remain on)
3. Step on the gas pedal in one smooth and steady motion
4. Once gas pedal hits the bottom, let go
5. Turn off car and wait 4-5 seconds
6. Turn engine on
7. Drive
Repeat 1-6 if it doesn't work the first time.
They also say you need to do this everytime you change tunes.
Idle re-learn:
I do both any time I have disconnected the battery. Definitely notice a difference in responsiveness.
Recalibrate fly by wire throttle:
1. Turn on car without starting the engine
2. Wait till most the dash lights go out (seems like two remain on)
3. Step on the gas pedal in one smooth and steady motion
4. Once gas pedal hits the bottom, let go
5. Turn off car and wait 4-5 seconds
6. Turn engine on
7. Drive
Repeat 1-6 if it doesn't work the first time.
They also say you need to do this everytime you change tunes.
The idle learning process is simple. From a cold start, load your tune - or in this case since you're not running a tune just unplug the battery overnight.
Then from a cold start, start the car and idle for 8 minutes without touching the throttle at all.
Now put the A/C on for 2 minutes, still at idle without touching the throttle at all and without shutting of the car.
Now after 10 minutes of idling (8 without AC and 2 with AC), you can drive the car for approximately 10 miles... make sure it's not just highway, but stop signs, traffic slights, etc.
You will have completed the idle learning process.
Then from a cold start, start the car and idle for 8 minutes without touching the throttle at all.
Now put the A/C on for 2 minutes, still at idle without touching the throttle at all and without shutting of the car.
Now after 10 minutes of idling (8 without AC and 2 with AC), you can drive the car for approximately 10 miles... make sure it's not just highway, but stop signs, traffic slights, etc.
You will have completed the idle learning process.
Last edited by cdynaco; Jul 9, 2014 at 06:54 PM.
I tried the relearn a couple times and it made no difference. Cause i was looking into this while at work this morning and had the same thought's and came across the same "fix"
I haven't looked on my car yet, but every single Ford I've owned or driven has had slop in the gas pedal, resulting in at least another inch of travel that is not being used. In the SN95 world, people would put plastic spacers on the cable to push the pedal up - this would make WOT happen sooner and make heel/toe a lot easier. Are our cars like this? I know there's no cable, but could there be the same slop?
I haven't looked on my car yet, but every single Ford I've owned or driven has had slop in the gas pedal, resulting in at least another inch of travel that is not being used. In the SN95 world, people would put plastic spacers on the cable to push the pedal up - this would make WOT happen sooner and make heel/toe a lot easier. Are our cars like this? I know there's no cable, but could there be the same slop?



