LCA's not working
#1
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LCA's not working
I just installed my BMR LCA's the $180 ones "TCA019" and I still have very bad wheel HOP, BIG TIME. I get going about 15MPH, Clutch floor it drop the clutch, and WOW does it HOP. I have done this in my other cars and have not had this issue. what am I doing wrong? I have not tried drooping the clutch from a stop at 3000 RPM to see if that still HOP'S. What can I install to remove ALL wheel HOP?
Thanks to all
Thanks to all
#2
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You probably also need the upper control arm replaced. I did both on mine. Now while I haven't tried my hardest to make it hop, I've given a few pretty good tries and it stayed stuck to the ground.
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I will preface this by saying this is just my experience. I added lcas and still had wheel hop. I added the steeda torque box brace and no longer have hop. It could be all in my head because I can't see how it would help. In my case, it does.
#4
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Yep I had a feeling someone was going to say I need that, ok so what one should I get? I dont care about the ride or the noise.
#5
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I did the BMR tubular LCA's and the 55D rear springs at the same time and eliminated about 95% of the Hop.
I now have BMR relocation brackets and Steeda Sport springs (and Koni struts/shocks) and no more hop whatsoever.
Stock UCA.
I now have BMR relocation brackets and Steeda Sport springs (and Koni struts/shocks) and no more hop whatsoever.
Stock UCA.
#6
LCA's are only part of the system that is the rear suspension. Keep in mind tires, upper control arms, springs, and shocks also play a factor in the overall performance of the system. That said, I'd look at springs and/or new tires before going with the UCA.
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Worthy point here. It's hard to say it's all on one thing. In total I did UCA, LCAs, springs, shocks, relocation brackets, and panhard bar. I didn't change wheels or tires. My details are in my signature. My ride is harsher and noisier especially on the crappy Michigan roads, but it just hugs the ground very well. I will have to eventually upgrade my tires. With all the power going to the ground more efficiently now, I can break the tires loose a little too easily (no wheel hop when I do).
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Adjustable LCA's cured much of the hop in my '11 5.0L, but it took an upper control arm to get the pinion angle in the -1 to -1.5 degree range to completely eliminate the wheel hop.
#9
For reference, I am running the FRPP LCA's, P springs, and the adjustable shocks on my car. I installed them in stages to see what difference each made, and immediately noticed an improvement with just the LCA's.
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Is the car completely stock other then the LCA's? I would try for relocation brackets, that and possibly stiffer springs if you haven't already switched those out.
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