I just installed my BMR LCA's the $180 ones "TCA019" and I still have very bad wheel HOP, BIG TIME. I get going about 15MPH, Clutch floor it drop the clutch, and WOW does it HOP. I have done this in my other cars and have not had this issue. what am I doing wrong? I have not tried drooping the clutch from a stop at 3000 RPM to see if that still HOP'S. What can I install to remove ALL wheel HOP?

Thanks to all

 

You probably also need the upper control arm replaced. I did both on mine. Now while I haven't tried my hardest to make it hop, I've given a few pretty good tries and it stayed stuck to the ground.

 

I will preface this by saying this is just my experience. I added lcas and still had wheel hop. I added the steeda torque box brace and no longer have hop. It could be all in my head because I can't see how it would help. In my case, it does.

 

Yep I had a feeling someone was going to say I need that, ok so what one should I get? I dont care about the ride or the noise.

 

I did the BMR tubular LCA's and the 55D rear springs at the same time and eliminated about 95% of the Hop.

I now have BMR relocation brackets and Steeda Sport springs (and Koni struts/shocks) and no more hop whatsoever.

Stock UCA.

 

LCA's are only part of the system that is the rear suspension. Keep in mind tires, upper control arms, springs, and shocks also play a factor in the overall performance of the system. That said, I'd look at springs and/or new tires before going with the UCA.

 

Worthy point here. It's hard to say it's all on one thing. In total I did UCA, LCAs, springs, shocks, relocation brackets, and panhard bar. I didn't change wheels or tires. My details are in my signature. My ride is harsher and noisier especially on the crappy Michigan roads, but it just hugs the ground very well. I will have to eventually upgrade my tires. With all the power going to the ground more efficiently now, I can break the tires loose a little too easily (no wheel hop when I do).

 

Adjustable LCA's cured much of the hop in my '11 5.0L, but it took an upper control arm to get the pinion angle in the -1 to -1.5 degree range to completely eliminate the wheel hop.

 

For reference, I am running the FRPP LCA's, P springs, and the adjustable shocks on my car. I installed them in stages to see what difference each made, and immediately noticed an improvement with just the LCA's.

 

Is the car completely stock other then the LCA's? I would try for relocation brackets, that and possibly stiffer springs if you haven't already switched those out.