If it still isn't fix the next time reference the AC belt tensioner TSB because it has a flow chart for diagnosing the issue.

 

actually i did mention it (thanks), the tech's response was that there where a lot of engine noise bulletins for that car...i also showed them you tube vids of other cars that had the same noise (though worse than mine)....

 

You should bring it back in, or get a second opinion at a different Ford Dealer, luzstang. Remember, if they say it’s caused by an aftermarket part, the repairs won’t be covered. Keep me posted.

Deysha

 

My '13 5.0 developed the tap after the dealer did the 2nd oil change.

After 3 weeks of diagnostics, they said Ford told them to replace everything in the top end.

Sounded like a collapsed lifter to me.

 

if you're referring to the "computer flash" it was an update as per a tsb done by the dealer, not an aftermarket tune...and i did bring it back, it's still there

 

I'm scheduled for technician at my dealership tomorrow, will keep posted on the progress.

In the mean time, let's look at some of the basics:

---"When the engine is running, the lifters raise and lower the valves repeatedly. In order to do this smoothly both require engine oil to lubricate the space around each of the valves within the engine block.
When there isn’t enough engine oil friction starts to build up from the valve rubbing against dry metal. Each of the lifters are connected to the valves by a bolt and nut.
Therefore, when the engine’s oil is very low, it makes each lifter have to work harder to lift the valves. Over time from the strain, this causes the bolts on the lifters to loosen and causes the ticking noise that you are hearing."---

Above quote is stating that the oil was low... but the oil level was fine, they put full 8qrts in?

---"If the oil level is adequate and the noise continues the problem is more serious. This could indicate blocked oil passages, failing lifters or a failing oil pump. An experienced mechanic can perform further troubleshooting to better identify these issues."---

Well, how serious?

---"To determine that the sound is actually coming from the engine press on the throttle pedal. Noises that vary with engine speed will be coming from the engine. If the noise varies with vehicle speed, no matter the engine speed as you shift through gears, are coming from somewhere else. In the rare case you hear a noise that doesn’t vary in speed it will be completely unrelated to the engine or drive train."---

---"If you experience a louder tapping noise from the lower part of the engine you likely have a very serious problem. In the most severe cases it can sound like your vehicle is coming apart. These noises are associated with the bearings on the connecting rods or a broken connecting rod. Whenever you hear such a noise you should stop your engine as soon as you can do so safely and have your vehicle towed to a repair facility. It is likely that, once you get an estimate for this repair, you will be considering the purchase of a new vehicle."---

....whaaaaat?

OR it could be as simple as:
---"You can get lifter tick from certain synthetic oils. Mobil 1 or other might cause it, but the real cause of it is dirty lifters. If you dont want to take them out and clean them you can try and using an engine detergent/cleaner before your next oil change and see if that helps."---

The fix for Lifter Tick:
---"You've been told you have a lifter tick. The fix for this problem can be as simple as pulling the valve covers and adjusting the valves, or as involved as replacing all of the lifters in your car's engine."---

 

You don't have a pushrod engine. You have an OHC (Overhead Cam) where the cam works directly on finger followers to depress the valve to open. The hydraulic lash adjuster uses oil pressure to take up slack of the finger follower.

Spun bearing. Park it.

Again, you're reading about a pushrod engine. You have cam covers. And the valves are not adjustable in modern engines.

Just didn't want you to look foolish talking with your technician.

 

Thank you for kind advise My knowledge is very very limited as you can tell, but I am trying to open all possibilities and educate myself in some degree at least.

None from my list seem to relate then - low oil level, bad lifters, valve clearance/adjustment... none of it - which leaves me with the oil grade (viscosity/weight).

What else could it be? The tick/tapping came right after oil change and so I drove right back to dealer on that same day, argh!

 

Mine started IMMEDIATELY after they changed the oil.

I was worse if I drove the car and let it sit for about an hour and started it.

They replaced:
• All lifters (AKA Lash Adjusters) for cylinders 1 & 2. (8 total lifters)
• Timing Chain and tensioners.
• ALL VCT components on both sides.
• All related bolts, seals, gaskets, coolant, etc.

My car had 9998 miles on it when it started.

 

Did that fix it? How's it sound now, is the noise gone?

 

I'm starting to wonder if the 5.0's "cam torque actuated" design for the variable cam timing is harder on the rollers in the finger followers and perhaps also the timing chain (therefore the tensioners)...

Whereas the 4.6L3V's VCT was all hydraulic actuated, and there weren't these numerous reports of ticking (beyond the normal mild clackity clack & whirring sound of an OHC).

 

I’ll have your CSM contact you again, luzstang.

Deysha

 

Hi Deysha,
Did you get my PM...?

 

still no word from my csm, i left her a msg the day i brought the car back (fri. 11/8 and its still there btw) and no response....
i called the dealership last thurs and was rudely told my car has not been diagnosed (not even looked at yet) he said there was a car ahead of mine and then they would do mine....is there only one tech? really ford? he told me they would call me when he had any news....
love the car....hate the service/support (in my experience)....this may be my last ford....

 

Eh, it's tapped since. Just nothing that stays.

Ford won't do anything else for me, so I guess I'll live with it.

 

Which oil grade did they put, 5W-20 or 50?

 

5w-20.

 

I'm going to have them put 5W-50 and see what happens. It can only get worse... right? And no, mine is not Trackpack.

 

Why? Do you run for hours at high rpm - like above 5k?

Hell, why not just throw in a couple of cans of STP and call it a day?

 

I'd just run 5-20 till it pops. Having them put 5-50 in could cause some issues when it comes to warranty work when it does go.

I pretty much told them I didn't want it back until it was fixed. They had to have numerous conversations with "The Hotline" before anything got done. They had it almost 3 weeks.

Then when they did call me to come get it, we found out that the tech broke the shroud that covers the core support and took my keys home with him. Quality.