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They're a bit pricey but another option is Jackpoint Jackstands. I love my set, no futzing around with 2x4s or anything. You jack up and support right from the pinch welds.
This is the first time I've seen those things and I like them.
Don't like the lack of height adjustability.
Didn't look up the price on them.
If I'm lifting the whole car, I lift the back first, jack under pumpkin.
Depending on what I'm gonna be doing, I may use some of my wood things under the wheels, I have lots of height adjustability there since each one raises the car about 3"
Or if I want the axle to droop, I'll use 2 of my 6-ton jack stands in the same location as the OP, but I have them the long way, not side to side.
Lifting the front, I put the jack under the back part of the K-member, where it meets the body, lift there, and put the jack stands under that frame section, as seen in the pic below, arrows pointing to the spots.
If I have to lift high, I'll do a couple inches at a time, going back and forth side-to-side, so the car doesn't lean over too much.
The wood things I was talking about, this was when I was doing the clutch fluid line:
And the Shelby gets the same treatment:
I actually just had the Shelby in the air for the rear diff fluid change, and I lifted the front too, so the fluid would fully drain out, cuz with the nose down a bunch of the fluid was getting trapped in the forward part of the diff.
I also had the upper control arm out to install a grease fitting on it, and for that job I had stands under the sides of the car and wood under the wheels, letting the axle droop for more room above it.
This is the first time I've seen those things and I like them.
Don't like the lack of height adjustability.
Didn't look up the price on them.
If I'm lifting the whole car, I lift the back first, jack under pumpkin.
Depending on what I'm gonna be doing, I may use some of my wood things under the wheels, I have lots of height adjustability there since each one raises the car about 3"
Or if I want the axle to droop, I'll use 2 of my 6-ton jack stands in the same location as the OP, but I have them the long way, not side to side.
Lifting the front, I put the jack under the back part of the K-member, where it meets the body, lift there, and put the jack stands under that frame section, as seen in the pic below, arrows pointing to the spots.
If I have to lift high, I'll do a couple inches at a time, going back and forth side-to-side, so the car doesn't lean over too much.
The wood things I was talking about, this was when I was doing the clutch fluid line:
And the Shelby gets the same treatment:
I actually just had the Shelby in the air for the rear diff fluid change, and I lifted the front too, so the fluid would fully drain out, cuz with the nose down a bunch of the fluid was getting trapped in the forward part of the diff.
I also had the upper control arm out to install a grease fitting on it, and for that job I had stands under the sides of the car and wood under the wheels, letting the axle droop for more room above it.
Very nice, I like your wheel cribs. I had the rear of my car in the air on stands today in the same spot in front of the LCA's. I too, position them long ways, not side to side like in the pic I posted. I was just wondering if that place was acceptable if I was needing the axle to droop. I am going to be installing an upper control arm soon so I need the axle to droop to allow full access.
As far as the pinch welds on the rear, do you guys just position the stands long ways along the weld? Block of wood on the pinch weld and then the stand? I've yet to come across a picture of this.
The front of the car is easy, I jack from the center of the K-member in the ribbed area and position stands on the inner frame rails.
Very nice, I like your wheel cribs. I had the rear of my car in the air on stands today in the same spot in front of the LCA's. I too, position them long ways, not side to side like in the pic I posted. I was just wondering if that place was acceptable if I was needing the axle to droop. I am going to be installing an upper control arm soon so I need the axle to droop to allow full access.
Totally acceptable, but I'd support the axle too, since when you take out the UCA the axle might want to rotate a bit.
So I used the wood cribs I mentioned to limit axle droop, and I used the floor jack under the forward part of the diff to limit axle rotation
Originally Posted by NacsMXer
As far as the pinch welds on the rear, do you guys just position the stands long ways along the weld? Block of wood on the pinch weld and then the stand? I've yet to come across a picture of this.
...
I have placed the stands along the pinch welds, not under them.
I've put the stands the long way just on the inside of the pinch welds, tucking the stand up against the inside of the metal.
Can kinda see the way the stand is placed in the pic below:
These days when I put the jack stands in the rear I always put them on that area right in front of the LCA mount.
Can see that here:
^ that is AWESOME. Both the blocks and the mustang viper.
I think I need to do that when I store mine for winters. I just keep mine on the garage floor then jack up each corner and rotate the tires/wheels manually every couple/few weeks.
^ that is AWESOME. Both the blocks and the mustang viper.
I think I need to do that when I store mine for winters. I just keep mine on the garage floor then jack up each corner and rotate the tires/wheels manually every couple/few weeks.
If you have a table saw you could rip some pieces at an angle and make up the top of 4 of those wood pieces so the tire sits in a v-shaped topper piece, I'm thinking that would minimize tire flat-spotting
^ that is AWESOME. Both the blocks and the mustang viper.
I think I need to do that when I store mine for winters. I just keep mine on the garage floor then jack up each corner and rotate the tires/wheels manually every couple/few weeks.
I just keep mine in neutral with wheel chocks, and move the car a foot or so every week by hand. It's real easy to move the car if you hold on to the tires and move it forward or backwards, rather than touching the body of the car. I think that would be a lot easier than having to jack up each corner. As long as the previous contact patch is off the ground, you won't get flat spots.
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,648
Likes: 2,517
From: Carnegie, PA
Originally Posted by Gabe
If you have a table saw you could rip some pieces at an angle and make up the top of 4 of those wood pieces so the tire sits in a v-shaped topper piece, I'm thinking that would minimize tire flat-spotting
Gabe ! If you could make a set of blocks for me ? I'll pay you for both labor/material and shipping costs... Rocky
Apparently I've been doing this wrong too, using the jack stands at the end of the axle tubes but so far I think I'm OK. Just have to find another way to do it later.
One thing I've been using you guys haven't mentioned are Race Ramps. Also a little pricey but I use the two piece ramps on the front and two piece cribs on the back... Works like four wheel cribs. Just another option.
