I got those $85 J&M LCAs on sale at American Muscle a while ago, and finally got around to installing them. They worked like a champ - wheel hop all gone. Here's some pictures, in no particular order.


Stock arm vs. J&M arm.


Driver side arm installed.


Pass. side arm through the reinstalled wheel.


Shot from under the car of the pass. side.


Driver side, past some cheap duralast jack stands (yes, I jacked via the pumpkin - I know, I'm a horrible person)

A final note - they install way, way easier if you grease up the sides of the bushings just before installation. I have a tub of Valvoline synthetic wheel bearing grease I used, and they just slide right on up in there.

There is no perceptible NVH increase, and I burned all the way through 1st and all the way through 2nd, and there was nary a bunny hop in sight. Truly wonderful.

 

This is the only mod you've done to the suspension, to cure wheel hop?
I have been thinking of doing this myself but wasn't sure if it was worth it

 

Very nice. I have been thinking about getting some of these. A novice can do this job?

 

I had those on my 06, they are excellent.

 

Very nice. I've been thinking to try it but I'm afraid I might ruin it. I have no much knowledge of it yet.

 

Sayyy... this is great news! Congrats on a successful (and affordable) mod!

So how are these different? What's wrong with the stock LCAs that cause the hop?

 

Are these the LCAs? If so, it sounds like you got an awesome deal.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/extrem...trol-arms.html

Sorry if your pics answer some of my questions. I'm on my work computer which blocks the server that the pics are coming from.

 

They are probably these..

http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-p...ling-arms.html

 

Yup. The rest of the suspension is bone stock. I noticed this morning that there is still some hop when it's wet out (rained this morning), but the tires were cold so it might've been that. It's still better than it was before the arms, though, so it cures dry hop and ameliorates wet hop.

It's pretty easy, yeah. Literally four bolts. Took me about an hour to do both sides, and that was taking it nice 'n slow and pausing to wash my hands then take pictures every once in a while.

I'd say go for it. As long as you follow the instructions it is very difficult to screw this up.

Stock LCAs have very soft bushings that deflect under acceleration, binding the axle up and causing hop. These don't deflect nearly as much.

Yup, that's them.

One final note: Wear gloves while assembling the bushings - you know, those latex examination gloves. The supplied assembly grease is incredibly sticky. Nasty stuff.

 

Everyone should have a box of purple nitrate gloves in their garage. Makes doing work with fluids and sticky greases nice and easy.

 

Agreed

 

Excellent! Great info...
Out of Stock!

These are on the top of my shopping list...signed up for the email notification for when they're back in stock.

 

I found them unacceptably noisy......Something Mustang guys seem to put up with.

I don't do burn outs so wheel hop is not an issue for me. I'm not the only one to try these and take them off.

YMMV. Sold on Ebay last week...

 

Agreed - each person's idea of what's acceptable in terms of increase in NVH is subjective. Poly bushings will undoubtedly increase NVH. Rubber bushings like the Roush LCAs probably fair better in terms of NVH but there is a tradeoff with max performance.

 

Yup....Looking at the parts, notice the large metal Bush center on the stock parts. These have ribs on them, so when torqued to spec, the arm and center bush isn't moving back and forth against the bolt. On the poly bushed LCA's you don't have this precise clamping of the bush so the arm and metal bushing insert moves back and forth on the bolt. This induces some klunking that no amount of tightening can remove. While the bolt to bushing clearances are good, they're not good enough to prevent some slight movement (and resulting mechanical noise)