It's a group 3 hydrocracked conventional basestock. The EP line is a group 4 which starts as a synthetic basestock. You will forgive me if I have trouble believing a manufacturers claim when I have sent samples to blackstone for virgin oil analysis. You probably believe the americans landed on the moon too. Do your homework and get back to me k. Start at bob is the oil guy forum. Try the search function. Then actually buy some,send it to blackstone and see for yourself. Believe what you want. I couldn't care less. Amsoil,royal purple and red-line all start with synthetic basestocks. Now. Get to work.

 

Agree, that's what i'm running in my crankcase .

 

unas2k5

Don't listen to these internet trolls, especially this Everett guy. I think his moon comment say's it all. You can take his word or Mobil's. I think I will go with Mobil's.

Your do for an oil change anyway, get a good FULL synthetic & your good to go.

 

I was going to take it to a Ford dealersip in the morning. What would they put in it?

Thanks

 

Sam,
Dealership will use Motorcraft 5W20 oil, which is semi-synthetic oil by the way.
If you want to switch to full synthetic, you'll have to make a request for it. They can get you Motorcraft 5W20 full synthetic.

 

Oh no... here we go with the conspiracy theories again. Lets see, second shooter in Dallas? Alien spaceship in storage in Nevada? TWA Flight 800 was shot down? AIDS is a man-made biological weapon? It's hard to take anyone seriously when they spout such drivel.

You're both right. Mobil 1 is made from dino-oil base stock but it has been refined so much more than conventional oil that the courts have ruled that it qualifies for the "synthetic" designation.

 

To answer your question, Ford will use Motorcraft, either semi-synthetic, which is a blend and cheaper or the full synthetic which is more expensive. The owners manual for the 5.0 says use either one. My dealer did a change for me (to keep the warranty intact..my choice) and used the semi-syn, when they found out I wanted full syn, they took the car back in and changed it, with no charge for the first change. Good dealer service. Using the Ford brand is fine, it's made by a major oil company.

I did my first change at 3000 miles, which I always do on a new car. I used Mobil 1 which I have been using since 1978. My then new '79 Mustang 5.0 which I drove in Germany, for almost 4 years, was fed nothing but Mobil 1. Never had a problem, driving about 50 miles round trip to work, on the autobahn, between 100 &115 mph every day.

When I sold the car, in Germany, we pulled the valve covers and they were almost polished inside. The valve train was immaculate and looked as if it had jsut come from the factory. So, I will stand by it's use, but again, this is a personal preference.

 

What kind of noise was your engine making before you added oil ?

 

I personally like the Amsoil stuff. I notice the my engine runs a bit noticeably smoother than with the Motorcraft oil when it was in it.

 

I'll ignore the noise in your post but I've been wanting to ask you since you are an Amsoil believer. I followed your links and bob's links to the "in the field" oil test. While Amsoil holds up well, doesn't it bother you that its viscosity thickens so much? If I remember correctly, by 10000 miles the test showed its 5w-30 was up to a 15w-40 or 50.

That's pretty thick for cold starts.

And didn't you have to do valve work on your engine where on reassembly we discussed your cam timing might be off?

 

I don't know about the moon comment, but Everett is correct about the oil. Mobil 1 was actually a true basestock 4 oil before, but it's competitors ( penzoil, castrol) were claiming full synthetic on their bottles even though technically they weren't. They were actually basestock 3's, which are highly refined fossil oils. Mobil went to court for the other guys to not be able to call their oils full synthetics and lost. So they started doing the same thing, why would they make a higher costing oil when the other guys didn't and still sold it for the same price. Usually castrol, penzoil, and mobil's European oils are the only ones that are true basestock 4 full synthetic. Thats not to say that these oils aren't good. A lot of them use and mix components from the basestock 4 oils making them very good.

 

I was being a smart ***

 

Not the sso line. And it's available in a 0w-30 which is great in cold starts.

 

Ha.....keep reading sir. I am informed. And not by a commercial. And why exactly am I a troll. Because I make a comment you obviously know nothing about and I like mustangs. Perhaps your the troll. Let the commercial tv inform you then, cause everything a manufacturer tells you is true. You crack me up

 

So this Amsoil was sub par?

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html

And your 4.6 failed why?

 

I don't need to justify myself to you, but I will say this, I have over 1 million miles on varies vehicles over the years running Mobil 1 without 1 engine failure.

The AS mustang in my pic was a body in white I built. Last race of season no oil pressure on the starting grid, oil temp was OK, so I figured just a bad gauge. Half way through the race oil temp gauge is pegged, I finish well.

Tore down engine to find the oil pickup had cracked a broken off from the pump, found 1 cylinder wall scored & I was able to save the block with a sleeve.

Oil in engine was Mobil 1 20W-50.

Now how about answering cdynaco's ??

 

The noise I heard sounded like it came from the rear. I'm not sure.


The oil level is still right under or on that first hole after I put in 2 quarts. I don't understand.


When I first pull the dipstick after the car has been on I can see the oil. It's brown. As soon as I wipe it and dip again I don't really see any on there. It's low...still but why hasn't it grenades if it was that low?

 

Hey Slidejob, How often do you change you mobil 1 in your 05 GT? I change it every 10k in my wife's Camery and my 4runner(with256,000 mi). Haven't decided how I'm going to do it on my 5.0 yet. I just changed it at 1,000 miles after seating the rings driving it like i stole it.

 

The first time you pull the stick hot after you turn off you will see oil that is kicked onto the stick from the crank. Oil also gets up the dip stick tube so it will cling to the dip stick.

That's why I like checking the oil cold in the morning as the oil has a chance to settle in the pan & come off the stick for a true reading.

Check tomorrow morning cold, if you are low after adding 2 qts & the car only has 5K on it, you better tell the dealer to check for the consumption.

 

Keep adding... wait 10 mins... and check until you see oil on the stick. DON'T START IT UNTIL YOU DO!

Did you check the oil before you drove it off the Dealer's lot? I don't trust ANYBODY to do their job these days! (My 4.6 3V was a half qt low - which is still OK)

I'd be crawling underneath to see if the oil plug is leaking/loose, the filter is leaking, if there's any leakage showing underneath the engine and body. And of course on the ground - where you park it.

To keep driving without oil on the stick is ruining your engine - and that's a maintenance issue which means WARRANTY VOID!

The "odd noise" may have been hydraulic lifter/finger follower rattle (lifters in a push rod) if you have truly been low on oil (usually more that 2 qts). There's not enough oil to provide lubricant from the pan through the oil circuit to the cam towers for the cams, the lifters & finger followers, that actuate the valves.