I've heard that the manual transmissions (I think it's called mt82) are terrible. How many miles is on yours and at what mileage do you think they will fail? Mustang 2010 -2014

 

my 2010 has the TR3650 which has had no significant problems at 108K miles, shifting is a little iffy to third sometimes and that does seem to be getting a bit worse, still on stock shifter

EDIT: OP asked about 2010-2014 but I think he meant 2011-2014

 

I have just under 80,000 miles on my '14 GT with the MT82. No problems. I think most of the issues are exaggerated. On the other hand I am an old man who learned to drive on manual transmissions and over the years I've driven vehicles that really did shift like the proverbial " box of rocks" so maybe I am just not fussy enough. The shift linkage could certainly be improved. Even so, once you get used to it's design you can make good shifts. I do find it harder to make smooth heel and toe downshifts than some older transmissions, but I think that's mostly due to the drive by wire throttle and the hydraulic clutch. I just like mechanically operated throttles and clutches better. I changed the transmission oil about 10,000 miles ago, but it didn't really need it. I used the factory Motorcraft dual clutch fluid. Even with my local dealer discount it's still expensive. Most be liquid gold. I bought my car new so no one else has possibly misused it either. The 1 st. generation [ '11-'17 ] transmissions have better ratios in my opinion.

 

I am so glad you asked that question, because I was just about to ask the forum some questions about mine. I have a 2013 Boss 302. Purchased in 2017 with 1200 miles on it. I have had it rebuilt by Ford three times now and the last one was this last April. Understand, I am 72 yrs old, doesnt mean I am old but wiser about driving manuals. I have never taken my car to the strip or the track, but was going to the strip a week ago for a test and tune with another 2012 Boss and ShelbyGT. Just to make sure everything was still performing well, I tried putting it through the paces the day before,. The reason was because I rarely take it to redline at 7500. The last time was when I left Ford garage after picking my car up from the last rebuild, and I told Ford I was going to put it through the paces that night just to make sure everything was right and if not I was going to bring it right back that night. It shifted great except a 5th gear lockout at 7500. Probably going from 4th to 5th at 7500 I was well into a hundred and something mph which I figured I may never do again especially on the pulic highways. Even if I drag raced it I probably wouldnt have to go into 5th, but i am not sure on that and told Ford If I experienced any more problems I would be back. By the way they gave me a 2 yr warranty. Now here in lies the problem. When I put through the night before we were going to the strip, the first time I went from 1rst to 2nd at 7500 or so, It locked me out except It didnt just lock me out it. It grinded terrible. I tried it 3-4 times more until I couldnt stand obviously damaging those gears anymore. One other time it just locked me out, no grinding. What surprised me was that it didnt do it from 2nd to 3rd or from 3rd to 4th. After experimenting with it more, I could shift at about 5500 to 6000 rpms with no problem. The other thing is that it upshifts and downshifts great, just high rpm lockout at 2nd to 3rd.The only upgrade I did on the first rebuild was the braided clutch line abd BG oil. I have listened to many comments on the forums from clutch to helper spring on the clutch to just get a new trans. I didnt buy the car top do all kinds of expensive mods to it. Its a shame because that engine seems bulletproof and handling is terrific. Hopefully one of you out there can explain why only 2nd gear, it seems like it would do it in all gears if it was the clutch. I did see a youtube video on eliminating my high rpm lockout by removing the helper spring on the clutch pedal, but that seems like just treating the symptom and also giving me a stiffer clutch. I will be seeing Ford on the 30th of this month for a test drive.Could ther be any kind of simple clutch or linkage adjustment? I know, probably wishful thinking. If I have to get it rebuilt again, I will have to sell it. Cant take all this hassle and stress, especially when I dont abuse the car. Love to hear some comments. I guess that sheds some light on your question on problems with the Mt 82.By the way I have about 17,000 miles on mine, about 3500 a year, stored in my garage in the winter. Thanks for the post

 

Most of the shifting problems are with the Semi Remote Shifter, I have had no problems with lock out since I put the Blowfish racing Shifter bracket on it.

 

Boss you're not the only old guy here, I am 77 and until covid I was still doing the occasional autocross. Not a lot of shifting required doing that. There does seem to be a nibble or notchyness noted by lots of people on the 1-2 shift. especially when cold. Mine does that, but it pretty much goes away after the first few shifts. The factory linkage doesn't help either. Your transmission problems definitely sound worse than any others I've heard about. Your high rpm lockout is probably more noticeable than most because your engine can safely rev to 7,500 rpm stock. A standard 1st. gen coyote like mine will hit the limiter at 6,750-6,800 rpm with the stock tune. Based on everything I've heard the clutch is the main culprit. The Boss clutch has a different part # so you would think it might tolerate higher rpms better than the standard coyote clutch, clearly not so. I've driven lots of cars on dragstrips with manual transmissions, but not my '14. I must say I would not feel comfortable doing full throttle, no lift power shifts with it either, at least not with the stock linkage. On the other hand I do shift pretty quickly when the mood strikes me. Letting the centering spring do it's job on the 2-3 upshift and on the 5th or 6th gear downshift into 3rd. or 4th. helps a lot. I have the Steeda return spring and it helps a little with feel, but that's about it. The only car I ever felt comfortable doing high rpm no lift power shifts with was my '63 Plymouth with an 833 Chrysler 4 speed and Hurst Competition Plus shifter. You could bang the gears pretty hard with it and not miss. Back then nobody that was serious about making quick shifts used a diaphragm clutch, they wouldn't hold well and they wanted to hang up at high rpm. GM used lots of them because they were cheap. Chrysler used the Borg & Beck style and I think Ford used the Long type. Most of the better aftermarket clutches were Borg & Beck. It seems that all the clutches are diaphragm now. No doubt the technology is better today and a diaphragm does give an easier pedal. It's worth noting that no lift power shifts are hard on the synchros on any transmission. Ford has apparently used modern computer technology to allow it on the new Mach 1. I guess time will tell how that works out. Good luck with your Boss, I would try an aftermarket clutch before I sold it.

 

Thanks for getting back to me so soon. The problem is, I dont want to keep trying things like , try a new clutch. theres probably $1000 or more right there. And if it doesnt work then I try something else for another $1000 or more. Some guys say its the remote shifter and try the blowfish bracket, others say thats not going to help, some the helper spring on the peddle, some just a defective trans overall. I would guess that when Ford sees this next week they will want to rebuild it again. I dont think they would think its a clutch since it shifts well otherwise and everytime they looked at my ciutch on previous rebuilds, they mentioned how well it looked. Its very dissappointing, because if they do rebuid it again then I will have sell it. Within 4 yrs and 4 rebuilds does not make for an enjoyable summer, always waiting on pins and needles for the next problem. If they try to blame it on something else then maybe I am stuck with some serious expenses. Thanks for all your input and if you or anyone has any more suggestions, Im open.

 

I think I would try, in this order:
1) the clutch pedal assist spring
2) the transmission/shifter bracket
3) shifter -- can you do the bushings separately? if not a good aftermarket shifter

 

Thanks for your input. Let me ask you this, if it was the clutch spring, wouldnt it affect all gears? Also, why would it take 3 and a half months to show up? I high rpm shifted it many times the end of april as soon as they gave it back to me from the rebuild in april. I brought it up to 7500 numerous times that night and also I probably havent had it up that high except the one time preparing tio go to test and tune at the stirip when I first noticed it. Can you explain exactly what removing that spring will correct and would it make my clutch much stiffer or only hardly noticable? Thanks for responding so quickly.

 

from what I remember from when this first came up many years ago -- the clutch assist spring mainly affected high-RPM shifting and/or 2nd or 3rd gear . . . you might be able to find the old threads using the Search tool . . . my thinking in suggesting it, is that it is cheap and easy to do; so if it does solve the issue it will save you from doing more difficult and expensive things; and if it doesn't, then you haven't wasted much time or money

also if I remember correctly -- Steeda (or one of the other aftermarket Mustang people) sells a spring that is a compromise, solves the issue without changing the clutch effort very much

but I often do not remember correctly, because I am old and I have CRS

 

I had the Tremec 5-speed (3650 or 3560; I don't recall the number) in my '06 GT. I drove that Mustang daily for nearly 15 years. It got a little picky and notchy when it got older, but pretty much only when she was cold. Otherwise, it was a reliable, fun transmission.

The 2015 I have now has the Getrag MT-82 6-speed. I bought the car used, so I started with 51K miles on her. This gearbox has been a lot of fun to drive. I don't prefer the pedal position in the S550 Mustang; I think the 197s were better set up for rev-match on downshifts. But I've adapted technique some, and the transmission is happy to play along.

If I could tweak the positioning between throttle and brake pedals, it would be extra sweet. But so far, no complaints about the gearbox at all.

 

The clutch assist spring is, as the name implies, there to make it easier to push the clutch in. Somewhere at roughly the midway point it goes over center and this can be felt at the pedal if you really try. At high rpm this spring may make it harder for the pedal to return when released. A lot of people have removed it and not had any harmful effects other than a stiffer clutch pedal. Steeda claims that simply removing it may lead to future problems with the hydraulic throw out bearing. I have the Steeda spring and plastic cup assembly in my car and it does give a little better feel. It's not a night and day difference, but it is noticeable. Steeda's plastic cup assembly is definitely sturdier than the factory one. The worst part of this modification is having twist yourself into a pretzel to work under the dash.

 

I am not that adept at this forum, so I hope this goes out to everyone and not just to the last reply. So heres the big question. I go in to Ford tomorrow to show them this problem. Just to remind everyone, Ive had this rebuilt 3 times in 4 years. I have a braided clutch line and run BG for fluid. I am considering trying to remove the clutch spring but I also will talk to the chief mechanic, which I have developed a good relationship with. Also he seems genuine and knowledgable, although he still is limited on what he can or cant suggest. Remember, i am only locked out of 2nd gear at about 5500 or 6 grand and when I say locked out, I mean it grinds terrible at that point not just locks me out. I can shift great at 7500 into 3rd and 4th. So, that being said, in you guys opinion, will removing the spring take care of the 2nd gear problem without putting the Blowfish bracket and other mods on. I dont think I would go that route, like I said earler, I dont want to throw a lot of money at the problem. I didnt buy it for that, even though I wasnt aware of the trans issue at the time. By the way, if anyone is interested, I called MGW about their shifter and asked them if there shifter would take care of my shifter problem, because many guys say that is the solution. The owner said that it wouldnt, it just made it shift quicker like a bolt action rifle. Thanks again and I look forward to all your replies.

 

I haven't had any issues with my tranny yet and as old Joe would say knock on wood lol. But MGW is right it's just a short throw shifter. Its intent is to make the throw shorter and more accurate going into the gears. It does what is supposed to I have one and and it works great. But as far as the tranny issues I haven't had any to be able to give some sound advise nor do I have the time to dive deep into the books to help sorry.

 

The last I posted was going to have a meeting with Ford about my 2nd gear lockout at high rpm. They agreed with my opinion that it wasnt the trans per se, but the fact that it has the side remote linkage and other issues like poor design common in that trans and that these after market products might be the way to go. They new that i was doing far more research on this trans than they do. As I mentioned earlier, I have a braided clutch line and run bg synchromesh fluid which did help to a certain extent. It shifts better than it ever has after Fords 3rd rebuild. I am going to remove the clutch spring next but I dont think, that after hearing from you guys that that is the only thing thats going to solve my problem. My questions I have for everyone is do I go to the whiteline or steeda shift bracket at around $35, and looks fairly simple to install without a hoist first, which I would like to do? I dont have a hoist. According to CJ poneys tuturial, it took care of the high rpm lockout and only a minimal amount of vibration at the stick. Then there is the barton two post bracket for about a hundred and some with fairly easy installation, but guys say there is a rattle and quite a bit of vibation. Then theres the blowfish bracket for $270 that does not look like a lot of fun to install. They recommend a hoist, supporting the trans, and maybe pushing up on the rearend to make it fit, and on top of all that you might get a lot of vibation and and annoying rattle at the shifter. I dont want that. I dont race the car and just want it to shift consistantly at high rpm when I feel like doing it, which is probably not that often. If my Boss is made to shift at 7500, then I expect it to be able to do that. I hope you guys can help me out here, I really would like to go with one of the whitline or steeda brackets, and by the way, is one better than the other as far as anyone has experienced? Thanks for eveybodys time and info.

 

I did the Blowfish laying on my back on my creeper in the garage with the car on 4 jack stands. The shifter Bushing does help supposedly but the high RPM lock out is actually caused by the stress on the shifter between the trans and the body and removing it from the body in my mind was better than making the bushing on the body stiffer. Everything they did to these cars to quiet them down and the extra nannies to make them safer for the Dumb Masses has done exactly what you are complaining about with the lock out.
I have the stock Ford shifter, shorter throw and loosing the feel would not have helped with mine. The noise and vibration to me was not much more but the difference in shifting was worth it.

 

Thanks, so a couple of questions on your install. For one, is the shifter bushing you were referring to, the whiteline shifter bracket I was talking about? Two, did you have support the trans after you remove the trans support and did you have to push pressure up on the rearend to make it work. Number three, I guess I dont mind some vibration in the shifter, but is there an annoying rattle with it? Like I said earlier, I dont race my car and the majority of my driving is just some cruising, getting on it occasionally, and a lot of times you are at stoplights where you probably could hear a rattle if thats going to always be there. If there is a noticable rattle, would it go away with some pressure from my hand on the shifter? Also, unrelated to this, can anyone explain to me how and where do I go to start a new post in pretty simple terms? I always reply to other ones and was fortunate that someone asked about these trannys, but have never been able to figure out how to start one. There is nothing up top stating, create new post. thanks for all your replies.

 

1) I do not buy anything White Line for reasons I will not put in a public forum so I do not know.
2) In the bottom picture you see the 3 bolts, on the Blowfish you back them out enough to get the bracket in, so no supporting the trans on it.
3) None for me, I wear hearing aids and noised in that range bother me more and I have none.


Middle of the page, Gold Box that says New Thread

 

To the original question, I have 154,000 miles on my 2011 GT and still on the factory clutch. It's not a perfect shifter but I have had no real problems and, while I don't drag race or shift at redline very often, it definitely gets its share of hard driving and I don't have issues. Other than having the fluid replaced three or four times I think, never done any maintenance to it either.