What you do is find out the invoice price. Say for example the car stickers for 30k. Invoice is 26k. Tell them you want it for 26. I had 3 dealerships say "sorry" and walk me to the door. They never call me back. I can walk in any dealership and they won't call me later. They know the price and I know the price. A deal couldn't be reached; no reason to call.

I had to print out one of those "no hassle" price agreements to get my car at a price I was willing to pay.


http://zag.com/

If you use USAA or Progressive or some other company; they use the above company for that service. Literally print out the paper; go to the dealership, hand it to them and it's done. I got mine for ~27k.

 

You have to have had the stock for 6 months.

 

Wow. I have the luxury of probably 10 Ford dealerships within reasonable driving distance... but a couple of them will never see any of my money for one reason or another. I don't care if one of those couple was next door... I'd go to another 20 miles away to shop before I'd waste a salesman's time when I knew going in I had no intention of buying from them.

 

Thank you

 

I agree with all of the suggestions you have received so far. About the only thing i would add is to arm yourself with as much knowledge as you can about the car before you walk into the dealership. I have had to correct salespeople who gave me incomplete or inaccurate information. Also, price out your mustang ahead of time using internet info. sites and know what is a good deal and what is overpriced! Be patient and you will get a good deal even on a hot seller like the mustang.

 

That zag.com is an awesome site. I just priced out a 2011 GT Premium with all the boxes ticked that would make me happy and sticker was $42,415. The zag price as a cardholder with American Express was $37,529 - $4,886 cheaper than sticker!!! Then it recommends dealers close to you that are cooperative.

I always felt that to get a car "out the door" for sticker was a good deal for me and the dealership and the zag price seems to be just about that without the haggling. Neat resource.

 

If you want x-plan pricing, you can also join MCA (Mustang Club of America) and qualify as well. This is a recent benefit that they have added and I think people are still learning about it. I used X-Plan (via Ford stock) when I purchased my F150 - easiest sale ever.

Just keep one thing in mind when you are buying/dealing for a car - its your money, they want it. You can leave and take it to another dealership.

But all in all, once you are doing X-Plan, there is little to deal with as it is cut and dry.

 

Another way to get X-Plan is join the EAA for $40 a year:

http://www.eaa.org/ford/

 

Also you can go to Blue Oval News and ask a nice ford employee if they have a xtra number. though the site is down for a move right now http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php

 

ding..ding..ding..we have a winner. Thats what I do, even when I bought Porsches and BMWs.

Dave

 

Correct me if I'm wrong:

If you order the car, and pay invoice + holdback.
They keep the holdback as profit (the dealership) as its not going to sit on the lot

Salesguy doesn't get this as comission though.

 

All good advice mentioned above. Send out the emails. Know what you want to pay, what others are paying, current incentives, what invoice is, and what the difference between dealer cost and invoice is before you pull the trigger. I got a lot of good information from this site: http://www.carbuyingtips.com/

Being that you have found the car you want already on the lot, as was the case with myself, it becomes harder to say you'll go to another dealership. Stand your ground and be prepared to walk out when the lies begin. I walked out twice before going back to seal the deal. I would also recommend securing your own financing if possible. Don't be lured by the low APR advertised by the dealer. People rarely qualify for those. You can do better on your own by shopping around. Takes away another element of the dealer's game to make money on you.

Check out that site. You'll learn a lot and feel armed to go deal with the crooks.

 

All of the above is great information. I have purchased every car since 1997 through the internet, but at local dealers. One other thing I have found helpful, secure your own financing, if possible. I walk in the door with my trade in and a check. My 2011 took five days to make the deal I wanted, but well worth waiting for. Buying a new car is very emotional for the buyer, and the dealer wants to get you in it before you leave. Just let them know you are in control, not them. They can take your deal or you walk..believe me there are more dealers then customers right now. Be patient

 

I think the posts above pretty much cover it.

The only thing I would add is that, just because most car salesmen are thieves and liars, doesn't mean you should be one too. I would not intentionally waste their time or mislead them, just like I would not want them to waste my time and mislead me (even though I know they will).

Be direct, up front, prepared, ready to walk away, all of that -- but I'd stop short of intentionally taking cars for joy rides where you have no intention to buy or other dishonest tactics; just because they are scum (mostly, some great exceptions on this board) doesn't mean you need to go down to their level.

Better yet, deal with some of the guys here on this board, if they are close enough to you.

 

As a salesperson the most important advice I can give. COMMUNICATION! Being upfront with everything you are doing and you would remove 99% of the things people have problems with out there. This advice goes to not only people buying cars but the people selling them.

Also I have learned the hard way that even when you are 100% honest, assuming someone understands is a big mistake. Double and triple check that the other person understands everything about the buying process, numbers and anything inbetween and that you are both on the same page.