Wheel hop puts a hell of a thrashing on your u-joints, transmission, etc... has anyone actually broken any parts from it yet?

 

in 33k, I've experienced only slight wheel hop just once.

 

If your having a good bit of wheel hop, respectfully I would highly recommend getting a pair of aftermarket LCA's. I purchased and installed a set of non adjustable J&M LCA's and got rid of my wheel hop issues.

 

No, it's just annoying.

 

Agree. Haven't broken anything, but its annoying at times.

 

Good to hear, guys!

The wheelhop is the one thing I hate about this car. Otherwise, it drives incredibly well.

I have hesitated on this...it fixes the problem for some people, does nothing for others. Some people insist on spring relocation, etc. It seems like there is no guaranteed fix.

Honestly, I'm also waiting for the specs on the 2015 to decide if I will be keeping my 2011 for the long term. If so, it will probably get a full suspension anyway.

 

Won't a good set of shocks and springs alleviate this? At least "help" reduce it?

 

Yes! Well...sometimes.

 

I completely understand and would think based upon ones power the car is making that may effect the effectiveness of the LCA's. Since my car isn't making big power by any means just about 300 rwhp, my J&M LCA's solved my wheel hop issue. Perhaps one with a higher HP and torque pony may need a higher quality LCA to solve their wheel hop.

If wheel hop is an issue for people, a pair of aftermarket LCA's can be a low priced mod to fix this issue. My LCA's cost 100 bucks from AM and real happy with them.

 

Good points all around... I think that the traction level is another issue. I rented a GT 5.0 that had the all seasons and it would light the tires right up with no hop at all (no, I didnt do much of that... I don't believe in abusing other peoples' property. )

How was the install with your LCAs? I've never looked into the job..Do you have to press bushings or anything?

 

I did the install myself and took me around 3 hours total but that's because my mechanical skills are weak. Ha ha ha. The hardest part was to get leverage when torquing tight the bolts on the lower control arm when doing the job on jack stands.

I believe the bushings were poly and non greased so I added the grease to them that came with the kit.

 

On a manual car the upper control arm needs to be addressed before the lowers. That will fix the wheel hop.

 

I didn't know that. Learning something new daily.

 

I had awful wheel hop and sort of broke something... my cell phone! I bounced it off the seat and when I tried to retrieve it, it caught on something on the bottom of the seat and cracked the screen.

Installed lowering springs and LCAs, and the wheel hop is mostly gone (now I just don't have as much traction- but that's preferable to hop ).

I too purchased LCAs for about $100 from AM, it took me a couple hours to install them (not too bad, but I've never had to torque a bolt to 129 ft/lb before... whew- not fun when you don't have a lift, but I've got a new best friend called a "breaker bar").

 

Lmao..yep..hello breaker bar..

 

I've noticed the wheel hop is greatly reduced with my rear shocks set to 5. That being said, I know the UCA is still the key and I plan on doing that when I do a Watts Link.

 

5 is full hard correct? I changed tires and my wheel hop mostly went away due to having a little more tread width and when they do start sliding I can tell when it's going to happen versus the hop and sudden snap oversteer with the Pirelli's.

 

I've lost some wheel balancing weights....does that count?

 

I contemplated on buying parts to resolve the wheel hop issue...but I went the cheap route and decided to stop getting into the throttle so much. Haven't had much wheel hop issues since.

 

Yes.