Error code p2195?
#1
Error code p2195?
Hey guys
Got a 2014 Gt with 67xxx miles and had the car for six years now. Its got a Cobra jet, jlt intake, monoblade tb, 47lb injectors and O/R xpipe
Anyway, got my first CEL while i was making my way home last night. I searched the code on Google and what I got was bank 1 sensor 1 is stuck lean, not sure how accurate that info is. My A/F ratio is stuck at 14.0 and will not budge. My questions are, is it really sensor 1 bank 1? Which side is it on and how difficult would it be to replace it?
Got a 2014 Gt with 67xxx miles and had the car for six years now. Its got a Cobra jet, jlt intake, monoblade tb, 47lb injectors and O/R xpipe
Anyway, got my first CEL while i was making my way home last night. I searched the code on Google and what I got was bank 1 sensor 1 is stuck lean, not sure how accurate that info is. My A/F ratio is stuck at 14.0 and will not budge. My questions are, is it really sensor 1 bank 1? Which side is it on and how difficult would it be to replace it?
#2
Legacy TMS Member
The right side exhaust upper O2 sensor is what's being reported as stuck. Replacing it may be the fix. Could also be the wiring in some way.
However, that's not a guarantee, as it's entirely possible there's an air leak (maybe a cracked runner on the right side of the intake plenum?) or a stuck closed/not opening fully fuel injector, either of which would lean the mix out.
But being only the one sensor, it's probably that. You might want to look up how to check it with a multimeter or something. Here's an article I found that seems good:
https://itstillruns.com/test-sensor-5193043.html
Hope that helps!
However, that's not a guarantee, as it's entirely possible there's an air leak (maybe a cracked runner on the right side of the intake plenum?) or a stuck closed/not opening fully fuel injector, either of which would lean the mix out.
But being only the one sensor, it's probably that. You might want to look up how to check it with a multimeter or something. Here's an article I found that seems good:
https://itstillruns.com/test-sensor-5193043.html
Hope that helps!
#3
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hmmmm . . . just wondering about the A/F ratio . . . I think the actual A/F ratio is always fluctuating and should never be "stuck" at a particular value; I think you might be looking at the "commanded" A/F ratio which is what the ECU is trying to achieve, but the actual is different . . . not sure if that helps but I thought it might shed some light
and you have no rear O2 sensors, so the rear O2's are turned off in the tune, correct? (if not turned off, will throw CEL)
and you have no rear O2 sensors, so the rear O2's are turned off in the tune, correct? (if not turned off, will throw CEL)
#4
The right side exhaust upper O2 sensor is what's being reported as stuck. Replacing it may be the fix. Could also be the wiring in some way.
However, that's not a guarantee, as it's entirely possible there's an air leak (maybe a cracked runner on the right side of the intake plenum?) or a stuck closed/not opening fully fuel injector, either of which would lean the mix out.
But being only the one sensor, it's probably that. You might want to look up how to check it with a multimeter or something. Here's an article I found that seems good:
https://itstillruns.com/test-sensor-5193043.html
Hope that helps!
However, that's not a guarantee, as it's entirely possible there's an air leak (maybe a cracked runner on the right side of the intake plenum?) or a stuck closed/not opening fully fuel injector, either of which would lean the mix out.
But being only the one sensor, it's probably that. You might want to look up how to check it with a multimeter or something. Here's an article I found that seems good:
https://itstillruns.com/test-sensor-5193043.html
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the quick response,
I checked around for visible leaks and didn't find anything wrong, however I didn't think to check the intake runners, I'll have a look at that and double check everything else when I get back home.
I was able to point a flashlight behind the engine to see if the wires were fried on the oxygen sensor or something but everything looked fine. Thinking about just replacing it to see if that will fix it..
Thanks again!
#5
hmmmm . . . just wondering about the A/F ratio . . . I think the actual A/F ratio is always fluctuating and should never be "stuck" at a particular value; I think you might be looking at the "commanded" A/F ratio which is what the ECU is trying to achieve, but the actual is different . . . not sure if that helps but I thought it might shed some light
and you have no rear O2 sensors, so the rear O2's are turned off in the tune, correct? (if not turned off, will throw CEL)
and you have no rear O2 sensors, so the rear O2's are turned off in the tune, correct? (if not turned off, will throw CEL)
Yeah it always fluctuating any other time look at it. Now it's just stuck on that value. im assuming bama turned my rear o2 sensors off when i installed my o/r xpipe 4 years ago.
#6
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hmmm again . . . . looping back, I think Houtex had it right -- sounds like the O2 sensor is bad and is "stuck" sending the signal that the computer reads as 14.0 all the time; and since the sensor is giving bad info to the computer, then everything is SNAFU
#7
yeah definitely gonna TRY to replace the o2 sensor this weekend. Do you how difficult is to replace the passenger upstream? It looks to be very little room to get to it (granted I was look at it from the engine bay) perhaps I just need to get my butt under the car to see if I have enough room to turn a ratchet. I just don't want to end up doing anything crazy like removing the exhaust manifold to replace the o2 sensor lol
#8
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I have not done it myself, but I hear it can be very difficult, yes . . . in addition to the access, they tend to weld themselves in
#9
Weld themselves together??? Knowing my luck that'll probably be the case too. Got a quote from my local dealership of around 300 after taxes for them to replace it. Just not big on paying to get my car fixed as I'm used to doing all the work myself.
If I had a car lift and a garage I'll be more willing to take on the job. Just too cold where I live and I don't like working on cars while laying on my back anymore lol
#10
Legacy TMS Member
Rust weld. The manifold just rusts up around the O2 and... yeah.
It can be gotten off with some heat, but I understand a MAP torch isn't enough in some cases, and an acetylene torch is the tool to get to deal with it... but not everyone has that.
You *might* can try something that I had amazing-to-me success with after watching Project Farm (excellent independent tester of things(tm)!) about the subject: Liquid Wrench Penetrant. Or the Pro version, which is what I used. I tried PB and all kinds of others... this one did the trick. I wasn't ever getting that stupid exhaust nut off... It may even be the combo of PB and LWP, or IDK, but it worked, and I'm a believer, especially after watching that video. I'll put it in below. NOT a sponsor (I wish), just a fan, and hoping it helps you if that O2 sensor is stuck.
It can be gotten off with some heat, but I understand a MAP torch isn't enough in some cases, and an acetylene torch is the tool to get to deal with it... but not everyone has that.
You *might* can try something that I had amazing-to-me success with after watching Project Farm (excellent independent tester of things(tm)!) about the subject: Liquid Wrench Penetrant. Or the Pro version, which is what I used. I tried PB and all kinds of others... this one did the trick. I wasn't ever getting that stupid exhaust nut off... It may even be the combo of PB and LWP, or IDK, but it worked, and I'm a believer, especially after watching that video. I'll put it in below. NOT a sponsor (I wish), just a fan, and hoping it helps you if that O2 sensor is stuck.
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