Notices
2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}
Sponsored By:
Sponsored By:

Duh, don't jack the car there...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 3/9/12, 10:24 PM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
F2kmech's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 16, 2011
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Duh, don't jack the car there...

So I went to jack the side front of my lowered '11 and set the floor jack pad at the aft mounting point of the K frame. Got the car up, placed jack stands under it and noticed the box frame (outboard of the frame rail) where the K frame mounts looked like it got dented in a little. I have lifted cars from this area before with no issue, but it looks like it doesn't work for the S197. It still drives straight as an arrow. So what kind of adverse affect should I have from my moronic episode? I'm sure I'm not the only one...I hope.
Old 3/9/12, 11:00 PM
  #2  
Mach 1 Member
 
908ssp's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 16, 2010
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Yes I am embarrased to say I bent mine too as did a friend of mine. It will change the geometry a bit by raising the back of the K member you lose trail otherwise known as caster. The reason they make that so weak is for crash safety. In a front end accident they want the K member and the engine to rip out of the bottom of the car and go under the passenger compartment. So don't do what I did in fixing it. I made some aluminum plates machined to fit the bottom when original and bolting it in place pulled the attachment points of the K member back into position.

Old 3/10/12, 04:35 AM
  #3  
GT Member
 
steveespo's Avatar
 
Join Date: August 19, 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 908ssp
Yes I am embarrased to say I bent mine too as did a friend of mine. It will change the geometry a bit by raising the back of the K member you lose trail otherwise known as caster. The reason they make that so weak is for crash safety. In a front end accident they want the K member and the engine to rip out of the bottom of the car and go under the passenger compartment. So don't do what I did in fixing it. I made some aluminum plates machined to fit the bottom when original and bolting it in place pulled the attachment points of the K member back into position.
Can you make me a set of those? Your parts are always so well thought out, really should share your skills.
Steve
Old 3/10/12, 05:48 AM
  #4  
Legacy TMS Member
 
Glenn's Avatar
 
Join Date: August 7, 2006
Location: In Boredom
Posts: 15,821
Received 781 Likes on 570 Posts
nice werk 908! Who's x pipe are you running?
Old 3/10/12, 08:08 AM
  #5  
Member
Thread Starter
 
F2kmech's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 16, 2011
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 908ssp
Yes I am embarrased to say I bent mine too as did a friend of mine. It will change the geometry a bit by raising the back of the K member you lose trail otherwise known as caster. The reason they make that so weak is for crash safety. In a front end accident they want the K member and the engine to rip out of the bottom of the car and go under the passenger compartment. So don't do what I did in fixing it. I made some aluminum plates machined to fit the bottom when original and bolting it in place pulled the attachment points of the K member back into position.

Nice indeed. Have you thought about renting that out? If not I should be able to rig something up much uglier than that. Did the metal pop back into place and find its old shape again with ease or did it take some trial and error?
Old 3/10/12, 10:02 PM
  #6  
Mach 1 Member
 
908ssp's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 16, 2010
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Once I had figured out what the relationship should be and I shaped that aluminum. With a bit if fiddling I was able to start the bolts and tightening the new larger K member bolts, the chassis that the K member end is bolted to pulled down back into place. I put thread inserts in the frame and rocker so that the whole aluminum thing ties everything together. Honestly the piece is too much work for what it does and would cost too much money. And because it interferes with the crash worthiness I would not want to take the risk of people driving with it and perhaps crashing with it. I'll give it some thought about perhaps making a tool to use to pull the K member back into shape but not something that should be left on the car.
Old 3/10/12, 10:03 PM
  #7  
Mach 1 Member
 
908ssp's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 16, 2010
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Glenn
nice werk 908! Who's x pipe are you running?
Magnaflow X pipes. Pypes Supersystem.
Old 3/10/12, 10:19 PM
  #8  
Member
Thread Starter
 
F2kmech's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 16, 2011
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 908ssp
Once I had figured out what the relationship should be and I shaped that aluminum. With a bit if fiddling I was able to start the bolts and tightening the new larger K member bolts, the chassis that the K member end is bolted to pulled down back into place. I put thread inserts in the frame and rocker so that the whole aluminum thing ties everything together. Honestly the piece is too much work for what it does and would cost too much money. And because it interferes with the crash worthiness I would not want to take the risk of people driving with it and perhaps crashing with it. I'll give it some thought about perhaps making a tool to use to pull the K member back into shape but not something that should be left on the car.
I was thinking of something simple. Two U bars to go across the frame and pinch weld with small spacers to give a little clearance so the metal can be pulled out. Holes drilled into the U bars for the factory K bolts to draw it out. Also, the use of lube torque to help prevent galling on the threads.
Old 3/10/12, 11:41 PM
  #9  
Cobra R Member
 
2012GTCS's Avatar
 
Join Date: June 24, 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
u needed to go in further to that frame rail. thats where i jacked mine from
Old 3/11/12, 08:02 AM
  #10  
Mach 1 Member
 
Nocturnal'14's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 20, 2011
Location: KY/OH/MO
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I like the Jacking system you have there on the lift arm, with the billet piece! Nice setup!
Old 1/27/13, 04:54 PM
  #11  
Legacy TMS Member
 
kylerohde's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 6, 2011
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 1,891
Received 56 Likes on 46 Posts
Ugh, glad I'm not the only one - I just realized I'd jacked up my car in the wrong spot at least once on both sides in the back - here's a picture:



Really not smart of Ford to have a notch in the plastic there that looks similar to the correct spot. Not the greatest picture in the world but looking at it now, it looks like I've scraped away enough paint to have some surface rust there. So...besides being an idiot for jacking the car up there, anybody think I should be worried about corrosion there??

Last edited by kylerohde; 1/27/13 at 04:56 PM.
Old 1/27/13, 07:11 PM
  #12  
GT Member
 
racksteris's Avatar
 
Join Date: October 7, 2012
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by kylerohde
Ugh, glad I'm not the only one - I just realized I'd jacked up my car in the wrong spot at least once on both sides in the back - here's a picture:



Really not smart of Ford to have a notch in the plastic there that looks similar to the correct spot. Not the greatest picture in the world but looking at it now, it looks like I've scraped away enough paint to have some surface rust there. So...besides being an idiot for jacking the car up there, anybody think I should be worried about corrosion there??
Your not an idiot, ford is just really stupid for not making a decent spot to jack the car up and place jack stands.
Old 1/27/13, 07:32 PM
  #13  
Mach 1 Member
 
southcarolina12's Avatar
 
Join Date: December 13, 2012
Posts: 599
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
so wheres the correct place?
Old 1/27/13, 07:46 PM
  #14  
Legacy TMS Member
 
kylerohde's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 6, 2011
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 1,891
Received 56 Likes on 46 Posts
Originally Posted by southcarolina12
so wheres the correct place?
There's a spot just a little towards the front of where I jacked the car incorrectly. There are lots of notches in the plastic side sills, so don't let those throw you off - the only correct spot is where the metal is notched too.
Old 1/27/13, 07:56 PM
  #15  
V6 Member
 
djstorm100's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 2, 2013
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The have done this at the pinch weld since 79... with the fox bodies/4 eyes.
Old 1/27/13, 08:06 PM
  #16  
GT Member
 
racksteris's Avatar
 
Join Date: October 7, 2012
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So where is a good spot to place a jack stand. I placed one in one of those notches your talking about today, I knew it was not right but it work.
Old 1/27/13, 08:44 PM
  #17  
V6 Member
 
djstorm100's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 2, 2013
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by racksteris
So where is a good spot to place a jack stand. I placed one in one of those notches your talking about today, I knew it was not right but it work.

Using the pinch weld is fine, alot of people jack up the car, place the jack stand under the pinch weld. They then let it down to quickly and it causes damage. I lift at the frame rail close to the center of the car, more toward the front but the side I'm jacking, both tires come off the ground.
Old 1/27/13, 08:48 PM
  #18  
GT Member
 
racksteris's Avatar
 
Join Date: October 7, 2012
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by djstorm100
Using the pinch weld is fine, alot of people jack up the car, place the jack stand under the pinch weld. They then let it down to quickly and it causes damage. I lift at the frame rail close to the center of the car, more toward the front but the side I'm jacking, both tires come off the ground.
Sounds like a good idea. I always jack close to the wheel. I will try that as I'm always messing with the car. That way you can place the jack stand where the jack points are on the car. Thanks
Old 1/27/13, 10:47 PM
  #19  
V6 Member
 
djstorm100's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 2, 2013
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by racksteris
Sounds like a good idea. I always jack close to the wheel. I will try that as I'm always messing with the car. That way you can place the jack stand where the jack points are on the car. Thanks

There are pucks you can buy that fit in the pinch weld to lift it up, just like in the first post.

Since motor is in the front I have to place my jack more to the front. So when I jack the car up both tires come off the ground pretty even. On the driver side watch out for the fuel lines and etc.

Last edited by djstorm100; 1/28/13 at 05:08 AM.
Old 1/28/13, 03:58 AM
  #20  
Shelby GT350 Member
 
wheelman's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 24, 2012
Posts: 2,346
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by djstorm100

There are punks you can buy that fit in the pinch weld to lift it up, just like in the first post.
Those must be some small punks, what do they make per hour? lol


Quick Reply: Duh, don't jack the car there...



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:56 PM.