Digital Track Apps Screen went Atari Pong
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Digital Track Apps Screen went Atari Pong
So I turned the ignition key last night and found the digital screen in between the speedometer and rpm gauge looking classier than usual.
Tried shutting it off waited a few minutes and then turned back on didn't do the trick. I thought to myself, oh shet is this the end? Eh, it's ok. I don't need the screen.
Luckily this digital masterpiece decided to come back to life after filling up the tank at the gas station. Possibly a sensor of sort in the gas tank jump-started the circuitry or at least that's what I think happened.
Has such thing ever happened to any of you Stangers out there? I just can't help but to think how crappy these cars are made of.
Tried shutting it off waited a few minutes and then turned back on didn't do the trick. I thought to myself, oh shet is this the end? Eh, it's ok. I don't need the screen.
Luckily this digital masterpiece decided to come back to life after filling up the tank at the gas station. Possibly a sensor of sort in the gas tank jump-started the circuitry or at least that's what I think happened.
Has such thing ever happened to any of you Stangers out there? I just can't help but to think how crappy these cars are made of.
#2
Super Boss Lawman Member
I have found two oddities with mine:
1) If the low fuel indicator pops up when you start the car and you put the car in reverse without clearing it, the backup assistant screen stays up when you move out of reverse. Clicking OK on the steering wheel clears it.
2) On the gauge option, as you scroll down, there is an item for oil pressure that says OK. If you are on page two where it shows voltage, and oil and trans temps and scroll up to where the oil pressure is high lighted, the digital trans temp and voltage readouts stop updating. Moving off the pressure slection causes them to go back to updating.
1) If the low fuel indicator pops up when you start the car and you put the car in reverse without clearing it, the backup assistant screen stays up when you move out of reverse. Clicking OK on the steering wheel clears it.
2) On the gauge option, as you scroll down, there is an item for oil pressure that says OK. If you are on page two where it shows voltage, and oil and trans temps and scroll up to where the oil pressure is high lighted, the digital trans temp and voltage readouts stop updating. Moving off the pressure slection causes them to go back to updating.
#3
Mach 1 Member
So I turned the ignition key last night and found the digital screen in between the speedometer and rpm gauge looking classier than usual.
Attachment 211081
Tried shutting it off waited a few minutes and then turned back on didn't do the trick. I thought to myself, oh shet is this the end? Eh, it's ok. I don't need the screen.
Luckily this digital masterpiece decided to come back to life after filling up the tank at the gas station. Possibly a sensor of sort in the gas tank jump-started the circuitry or at least that's what I think happened.
Has such thing ever happened to any of you Stangers out there? I just can't help but to think how crappy these cars are made of.
Attachment 211081
Tried shutting it off waited a few minutes and then turned back on didn't do the trick. I thought to myself, oh shet is this the end? Eh, it's ok. I don't need the screen.
Luckily this digital masterpiece decided to come back to life after filling up the tank at the gas station. Possibly a sensor of sort in the gas tank jump-started the circuitry or at least that's what I think happened.
Has such thing ever happened to any of you Stangers out there? I just can't help but to think how crappy these cars are made of.
#4
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
lol Hangman. That's a good one.
Hopefully the screen stays intact but little worried it might go dark again. Assuming the issue is just a display portion and not the serious circuit board related, the solution would be a new instrument cluster.
I always kind of wanted the ones from Boss302s or GT500s just because they look nicer. Will those work at all on GT's knowing the mph/rpm ranges are different?
Hopefully the screen stays intact but little worried it might go dark again. Assuming the issue is just a display portion and not the serious circuit board related, the solution would be a new instrument cluster.
I always kind of wanted the ones from Boss302s or GT500s just because they look nicer. Will those work at all on GT's knowing the mph/rpm ranges are different?
#5
Mach 1 Member
I had that happen to me last September - first time. I was on my way to work, took a pic of it as I parked. Then after work I came out and all was fine - never happened again... oddest thing.
The following users liked this post:
PonyMuscletang13 (12/7/17)
#6
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Good to hear from a fellow TMSmate btw. I remember there used to be a lot of us who have just gotten the car back in 2012-2013 excited about installing new axlebacks and such. The forum also used to be a lot more active. Sad to see most are gone now.
How's the boss quad exhaust treating you, still rumbles good? I'm thinking about putting the plates back in (but with wider holes). Full open gives me headache sometimes. I feel old.
#7
Originally Posted by PonyMuscletang13
Thank you for sharing, thought my car was dying lol. Glad I'm not the only one!
Good to hear from a fellow TMSmate btw. I remember there used to be a lot of us who have just gotten the car back in 2012-2013 excited about installing new axlebacks and such. The forum also used to be a lot more active. Sad to see most are gone now.
How's the boss quad exhaust treating you, still rumbles good? I'm thinking about putting the plates back in (but with wider holes). Full open gives me headache sometimes. I feel old.
Good to hear from a fellow TMSmate btw. I remember there used to be a lot of us who have just gotten the car back in 2012-2013 excited about installing new axlebacks and such. The forum also used to be a lot more active. Sad to see most are gone now.
How's the boss quad exhaust treating you, still rumbles good? I'm thinking about putting the plates back in (but with wider holes). Full open gives me headache sometimes. I feel old.
#8
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by berzerk_1980
I'm not young and I have mine wide open with no problems... Do you have other mods contributing to your noise level?
It's the Drone. Most noticeable driving highway cruising speeds especially at 70. I started out full open, and then 3/4 (I think) cut plates. There was a thread about trying different sizes. The 3/4 got the most votes so I went with it. But I wasn't getting enough gurgle I loved.
Possible contributing factor IMO would be too much torque down below. I drove friend's Boss302 (the car) and it sounded fairly different. Much prefer the original vs GT version of quads.
#9
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
PonyMuscle... you might take a look at the QTP electronic cutouts for the Boss 302 quad pipes... It saves you from having to get under the car and swap out the plates to find the right tone. Allows you to adjust on the fly or close them all together. I put them on with my install. Would not have it any other way. You can adjust the opening to find the right amount of sound. I found if I have my quads open about 3/4 of the way then it sounds good at most any rpm. There are two options for operation. Either drill somewhere in the car for a new switch or add the wireless kit for a key fob control. I opted for the wireless option. Works great. Just a thought.
Here is the site: http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/302/
Love my Boss quads.
Last edited by shaneyusa; 12/8/17 at 09:29 PM.
#10
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Duplicate post...
Last edited by shaneyusa; 12/8/17 at 09:30 PM.
#11
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
No worries Shane I don't mind at all. Thank you for kind advise!
It's no brainer the QTP cutouts were first to consider when getting quads installed. One of the concerns however, was the labor (shop install, along with other goodies at the time) and the other being a lifespan of electric motors.
I remember someone from a thread discussion that one of his motors stopped working. Also Installation of running the wires etc. didn't come very attractive to me.
That being said, it would've been cool to be able to control the flow without going under the car. Now, if I can just cut the plates right...haha.
It's no brainer the QTP cutouts were first to consider when getting quads installed. One of the concerns however, was the labor (shop install, along with other goodies at the time) and the other being a lifespan of electric motors.
I remember someone from a thread discussion that one of his motors stopped working. Also Installation of running the wires etc. didn't come very attractive to me.
That being said, it would've been cool to be able to control the flow without going under the car. Now, if I can just cut the plates right...haha.
#12
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Yup understand.
#13
Originally Posted by PonyMuscletang13
Nothing out of ordinary. The motor is all factory except ProCal Tune. Resonator delete, Borla ATAK Axleback.
It's the Drone. Most noticeable driving highway cruising speeds especially at 70. I started out full open, and then 3/4 (I think) cut plates. There was a thread about trying different sizes. The 3/4 got the most votes so I went with it. But I wasn't getting enough gurgle I loved.
Possible contributing factor IMO would be too much torque down below. I drove friend's Boss302 (the car) and it sounded fairly different. Much prefer the original vs GT version of quads.
It's the Drone. Most noticeable driving highway cruising speeds especially at 70. I started out full open, and then 3/4 (I think) cut plates. There was a thread about trying different sizes. The 3/4 got the most votes so I went with it. But I wasn't getting enough gurgle I loved.
Possible contributing factor IMO would be too much torque down below. I drove friend's Boss302 (the car) and it sounded fairly different. Much prefer the original vs GT version of quads.
#14
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by berzerk_1980
It's the resonator delete.
My exhaust mod was done in the following order:
GT500ab -> Resonator Delete -> Boss Quads -> Borla ATAK
I honestly did not notice much difference when Resonators were removed. Obviously no drone at this point. The Quads were added after. Installed without the baffles at first. It was nice and loud but got the drone at certain speed/rpm. Searched the forum. Custom-cut plates added. No more drone (!) but didn't like the sound. Took the plates out again. The Borla was a bonus.
There used to be a local meet back in the day (thru tms). It was pretty awesome to see fellow Stangers and exchange ideas.
Btw, anyone else have had similar track app screen issues? lol
#15
Mach 1 Member
Thank you for sharing, thought my car was dying lol. Glad I'm not the only one!
Good to hear from a fellow TMSmate btw. I remember there used to be a lot of us who have just gotten the car back in 2012-2013 excited about installing new axlebacks and such. The forum also used to be a lot more active. Sad to see most are gone now.
How's the boss quad exhaust treating you, still rumbles good? I'm thinking about putting the plates back in (but with wider holes). Full open gives me headache sometimes. I feel old.
Good to hear from a fellow TMSmate btw. I remember there used to be a lot of us who have just gotten the car back in 2012-2013 excited about installing new axlebacks and such. The forum also used to be a lot more active. Sad to see most are gone now.
How's the boss quad exhaust treating you, still rumbles good? I'm thinking about putting the plates back in (but with wider holes). Full open gives me headache sometimes. I feel old.
Boss quad is rumblin' wonderfully - I opened it up a bit (not all the way but 3/4" I think?), plus got the trac-cal (april 2012 build so no track key) - with lopey idle the car really rumbles at idle...
I don't have drone, but I have gt500 ab's with the quad...
Last edited by Xar; 12/13/17 at 03:32 PM.