0-60 / 1/4 / MPG

3.31 vs 3.55 vs 3.73

Has anyone compiled this data?

Bonus question, difference between stopping distances for Brembos and non-Brembos?

 

I would also like to know.

 

The Brembos would not be the reason for shorter stops. The Brembos are only 1 inch larger than the standard brakes. The tires that come with the Brembos would be the reason for the shorter stops.

The real advantage of the Brembos would be reduced fade under harsh conditions.

 

Is the 2011 braking setup (non-brembo) equivalent to the 2010 track pack car?

 

No. The 2010 Track Pack had the same brakes as the standard GT, but with Bullitt front pads and GT500 rears.

And this data is going to be impossible to compile, unless one driver drives the different cars back to back to back for the acceleration tests, and over the same commute for the mpg tests. There's a ton of gear choice threads in this section. Most people have the 3.73s, 3.31s next, with only a handful having the 3.55s.

 

The brake rotors are bigger (13.2 vs 12.4), however the track pack had the sticky Pirellis, which as mentioned above are the bigger culprit for increased stopping power. TP also had high performance compound brake pads, not sure if the 2011s got these standard.

 

Motor Trend's 2010 GT did a stopping distance from 60-0 in 108ft. the 2011 GT with Brembo's did 60-0 in 105 ft. 3 feet. 2.7% better than the 2010. Trivial.

As stated above the real reason to get the brembo's would be reduced fade. As the tires and surface conditions impact the stopping distance, more than the brake pad itself.

 

No they are the same rotors. The 2011 standard GT brakes have 13.2" rotors. The 2010 GTs were all 12.8".

 

Who Dat!

Originally from New Orleans, always been a Saints Fan. Now stuck in Texas. I was hoping to get my new Mustang before I visist New Orleans in August, but I think my car will arrive after.

On topic: I purchased my new Mustang with the 3.73 since it wasn't much of an adder. I figured since the number is higher it has to be better, jk.

 

Who Dat indeed. Can't believe they won the big one. I personally can't wait til the season starts in August. 1st game against the Vikings.

On Topic: I will hopefully be getting a 5.0 in a few weeks if I do you are welcome to come see it. That is if I don't end up ordering one.

 

Cool. My 3.55 car will be a rarity!

The 3.31 car from my test drive was fine but felt like it could use a bit more gear.

The idea of an extremely brief amount of time in 1st gear in the 3.73 cars reminded me of many over powered sports cars I have driven which had to be launched in 2nd...or shifted too often.

The 3.55 sounded like the ideal gear...and if I add some power in the future, I'll still probably be able to ride 4th gear through the 1/4 mile without hitting the rev limiter.

Maybe I'll regret it after riding in some 3.73 cars but anything will be a HUGE leap from my 3.31 open diff in my 2009!

 

I'm kinda wishing I went 3.55's. Anyone know how much the dealer/shop will charge to install if I order the parts needed?

 

IIRC, the swap is in typically in the neighborhood of $300 for the labor. It's important that they get the gear mesh correct so you'll want to make sure you go to a good shop rather than a cheap one.

The parts aren't too expensive though...word on the street is that the FRPP parts tend to make less noise :
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2010-mustang-gears.html

So are you going UP from 3.31 or DOWN from 3.73?

 

Up from 3.31. But I don't know if it'll make a difference. I'm kind of worried that 3.73's will have too short a first gear and be even LESS fuel efficient (getting 12mpg city right now, even with granny shifting).

 

Yikes!! You probably shouldn't sweat it until your car is broken in (1500+ miles)... but that's painful.

I have also heard that lower gears (higher numerical) tend to do a bit better around town and are easier on your clutch too... but you lose some MPG on the highway...so your city mileage likely won't take a hit.

 

What type of fuel are you using, Joker? I'm using top tier 93 octane infected with 10% ethanol.

 

I'm just using your standard 93 octane gas from Texaco/Shell/BP/whatever.

 

The front rotors in the 2010 GT are 12.4" and the rears are 11.8".

 

So 13.2" is the same as 12.8"...

 

I ordered the 3.55's

I feel they are the best ratio for drag racing the car.
3.73's require a shift to 5th on a stock car...kills trap speed.
3.31's won't have quite enough pull off the line and lower gears...hurts ET
3.55's are the best combo. Have more pull off the line and still can make the 1/4 in 4th.

Further, with some power mods, the 3.73's are going to be even harder to launch without spinning the tires, and will most certainly spin more hitting 2nd gear.
The 3.55's will allow a slightly more aggressive launch without as much wheel spin off the line and hitting 2nd. That means better acceleration.

I'm sure from a rolling run of say 40 to 130 mph the 3.73 geared car will pull a bit on the 3.55 car (I'd guess 1 CL), but that may not be the case. As sometimes too short of gears and you don't stay in the powerband as long either.

To me, the 3.55's were the best of both worlds. Best times in the 1/4 stock as no shift to 5th needed. Best times on a lightly modded car (say intake and tune) as you can still finish the 1/4 at the top of 4th. And probably the best times on a heavily modded car (forced induction, etc) when on street tires. A heavily modded 11 GT is going to need 5th gear to get through 1/4 mile no matter what so the 3.55's no longer have that advantage, but with slicks the 3.73's should have the traction needed to launch just as hard or harder than the 3.55's can too.
So if you plan heavy mods and plan to run slicks go 3.73's, to me all else and the 3.55's are the best choice.