Gotcha thanks

 

You should read that link i posted a lil ways back in this thread, it states that letting the engine brake is just as important as high revs.

EDIT : here is a quote from the article

"If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs."

 

The pressure on the rings under engine braking is of the same type as it would be under hard acceleration. When it comes to the combustion chamber, there is no "negative" pressure. The rings are still being scuffed in under load, which is the whole point of breaking in an engine hard.

 

so engine breakin is the same as hard acceleration and you should do both while breaking in?

 

That's my take on it. It's not the acceleration that's the issue, it's load on the engine. That happens during BOTH acceleration and braking. Think of how they break in race engines at the track. The driver doesn't avoid engine braking going into the corners.

 

These aren't race engines. I think all advice you have to take with a grain of salt. Even that link posted that claims to have the "secrets" to a better break-in. Even he only did it on motorcycle engines.

I think the one common theme is vary engine speed. Pushing it hard just for a mile or two isnt bad, and may possibly be good. So if anything else, don't get on the highway, plop it in 6th, and set the cruise control; and don't sweat giving it a good run down your favorite strip.

 

I think I'll just follow the manual lol

 

it's in the manual written by the engineers of the engine...why would you think twice about it? its only 1000 miles...

 

Proper engine warm up is a huge factor in correct engine break-in. Don't go tearing around on a cold motor, let it warm up to operating temp, then get on it. The piston rings seating correctly are the biggest worry, that's why steady throttle application and cruising aren't good for the motor at first.

 

per fords website..

"proper vehicle warm up is about 10 seconds."

ill see if i can find the link but it was under the "myths" section

 

http://www.ford.com/about-ford/news-...money-on-32208


MYTH: You need to let your vehicle engine warm up in cold weather.
False: Your vehicle’s engine only needs a warm-up period of about 10 seconds – you’re actually the only one who may feel chilly. The engine warms up while you drive. Running your car any longer beforehand is just a waste of gas.
SAVE: Depending on engine size, temperature and other variables, modern cars can use about a third of a gallon of gas per hour while idling. By giving up that 10-minute idle every weekday morning, you could save more than a gallon a month – $32 a year or $416 over the life of the vehicle.

 

Um...I disagree. Proper warm up is usually a few minutes before you romp on a car. Your coolant and oil should be up to operating temp before you jump on the car. I've learned this from having a bearing failure in a turbo because of poor oil circulation. Once the car is warmed up, feel free.

 

By warm up, I don't mean idle, I just mean taking it easy while driving until fluids are up to temp. Cold weather, and normal driving, you can get in and drive.

 

Rick, you can turn the key and go. There is a difference if you are going to go WOT cold, or load the engine heavily.
Not so much because of the fluid, but for metal expansion. Clearances are different in a cold engine than a warm one. Normal driving, it doesn't matter.

 

i never let my cars warm-up never have.. start them.. let them run for about 20 sec.. then bam out the Driveway, usually pretty hard on the gas while im at it, im freezing my *** off so i want to warm the engine as quickly as possible.. cold cars are faster than warm cars.. esp in 30* weather...

 

No, not cold engines. Its the cold air that makes your car faster.

 

cold air + cold engine > cold air + warm/hot engine

 

This just isnt true as far as engine wear goes. That article was about maximizing MPG. They fully expect people to drive like a granny so a proper warmup isnt a big deal. But for us mad dogs, a fully warm engine is key

Same reason they recommend 5-20 oil, better gas mileage but crappy protection if you are bumping up against the rev limiter on a regular basis.

 

Yea but I have two cars, and I only put about 500 miles a year on my current stang. That means it'll be 2012 by the time it would be broken in. No thanks.

 

I can't say that I agree with that. As was posted later, you really do want your fluids to be running at "operating temperature" before you run the crap out of the vehicle. And anybody who has ever had the privilege of riding a performance 2-stroke engine knows how badly they bog before getting up to temperature. I know that 4-stroke engines are different technology, but the increased wear, etc. is not only a 2-stroke phenomenon.