2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

Any annual parts sales coming up?

Old Mar 4, 2014 | 01:02 AM
  #21  
Stevedotmil's Avatar
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From: Germany
Originally Posted by laserred38
You need to mod your suspension. Just running springs and a PHB aren't gonna cut it when you try to put that power down through those meats you'll have on in spring. Quit skimpin out on the shocks and struts!
You wouldn't want to go out having some fun with that sweet ride and break something because your engine overpowered the rest of your car because those meats stuck to the pavement like they are supposed to.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 03:58 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Stevedotmil
You wouldn't want to go out having some fun with that sweet ride and break something because your engine overpowered the rest of your car because those meats stuck to the pavement like they are supposed to.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 04:30 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
You need to mod your suspension. Just running springs and a PHB aren't gonna cut it when you try to put that power down through those meats you'll have on in spring. Quit skimpin out on the shocks and struts!
Originally Posted by Stevedotmil
You wouldn't want to go out having some fun with that sweet ride and break something because your engine overpowered the rest of your car because those meats stuck to the pavement like they are supposed to.
Yeah I'll have to mod it someday... But I drive too much like a gramma to worry about breaking something

Someone tell me the purpose of lca/uca and coilovers and how they work/adjust?
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 09:33 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by RMS70
I'm waiting on the 2013 style tail lights for my two 2010's.
I would be all over that if they made them!
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 09:38 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
Yeah I'll have to mod it someday... But I drive too much like a gramma to worry about breaking something Someone tell me the purpose of lca/uca and coilovers and how they work/adjust?
Ha, you say that now!

I replied to your coilover question in the other thread, but the UCAs and LCAs will cure your wheelhop, keep the rear end more planted under load, and are usually necessary after lowering to keep the correct geometry.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 02:05 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
Ha, you say that now!

I replied to your coilover question in the other thread, but the UCAs and LCAs will cure your wheelhop, keep the rear end more planted under load, and are usually necessary after lowering to keep the correct geometry.
I'd never heard this before? Is this true of a slight lowering, like Steeda Sport Springs or only with a car that's slammed?
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 02:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by The Sheriff
I'd never heard this before? Is this true of a slight lowering, like Steeda Sport Springs or only with a car that's slammed?
From what the vendors have said on here, if you're 1.5" or less, you'll be okay, but any lower than that and they become a necessity.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 03:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
From what the vendors have said on here, if you're 1.5" or less, you'll be okay, but any lower than that and they become a necessity.
Whew... I have time then... I'm only lowered 1.5 on k springs
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 04:03 PM
  #29  
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Any more than that and the pinion angle of the rear end will be off and cause you suspension to bind. The upper control arm that's adjustable is how you fix this. Also if you don't have adjustable lowers then you would need relocation brackets. If you are slammed then you might need both to get the pinion back to spec and keep your rear end from breaking stuff. Z if you drive like a senior citizen then coil overs would be a waste of money. They give you the ability to adjust the dampening of your shocks as well as adjust height all around and Camber for the front.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 04:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Stevedotmil
Any more than that and the pinion angle of the rear end will be off and cause you suspension to bind. The upper control arm that's adjustable is how you fix this. Also if you don't have adjustable lowers then you would need relocation brackets. If you are slammed then you might need both to get the pinion back to spec and keep your rear end from breaking stuff. Z if you drive like a senior citizen then coil overs would be a waste of money. They give you the ability to adjust the dampening of your shocks as well as adjust height all around and Camber for the front.


I still want him to upgrade his shocks and struts. You're putting too much strain on them being lowered, even with your low miles. I can't believe a guy with your OCDness chose to just do springs and a PHB. You could've had it all done at once!
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
I still want him to upgrade his shocks and struts. You're putting too much strain on them being lowered, even with your low miles. I can't believe a guy with your OCDness chose to just do springs and a PHB. You could've had it all done at once!
See that's the thing... If they do break, great! I can replace then!
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
See that's the thing... If they do break, great! I can replace then!
Of course!
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
From what the vendors have said on here, if you're 1.5" or less, you'll be okay, but any lower than that and they become a necessity.
Originally Posted by Stevedotmil
Any more than that and the pinion angle of the rear end will be off and cause you suspension to bind. The upper control arm that's adjustable is how you fix this. Also if you don't have adjustable lowers then you would need relocation brackets. If you are slammed then you might need both to get the pinion back to spec and keep your rear end from breaking stuff. Z if you drive like a senior citizen then coil overs would be a waste of money. They give you the ability to adjust the dampening of your shocks as well as adjust height all around and Camber for the front.
Great info. I'm planning to do Steeda Sport Springs & Koni Sports, so it sounds like I should be okay.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 11:34 AM
  #34  
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sooo is there a sale on UCA/LCA's ? Also on the roush lower grille ?

these are on my list
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 11:36 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by roadrunner
sooo is there a sale on UCA/LCA's ? Also on the roush lower grille ? these are on my list
I need to know too... I'm getting peer pressured by folks on this forum to follow suit and upgrade my uca and lca... Lol
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 01:02 PM
  #36  
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I'm sure I can take care of you guys
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 03:02 PM
  #37  
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From: NoVA
Originally Posted by Jay@Hypermotive
Those LCA's are basically the same as Blow By Racing's LCA's and to be honest, they're awesome for the money! I've ran these back in 2011 on our Whippled GT, call BBR and talk to Steve, tell them Jay from Hypermotive sent you there. Steve and I are good friends, he used to me in the Army so he and I have a lot to talk about For the UCA, don't skimp out. The new revised Whiteline piece is something that they should've come out with first however, I would still go with the BMR piece. I truly believe you get what you pay for, I have yet to hear of any negative reviews on their UCA when paired with their mount. I'll shoot you a pm with our discount code, just let me know what you think
this^. I have the BMR UCA and mount. It looks like it was built to hold a tank together. Both pieces are solid
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 05:48 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jay@Hypermotive
I'm sure I can take care of you guys
Sent you a pm.
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 06:40 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Jay@Hypermotive
I'm sure I can take care of you guys
http://shop.hypermotiveperformance.com/BMR_c327.htm

you have two adjustable BMR UCA's what is the difference in the bushings? Poly Vs Polyurethane
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 01:03 PM
  #40  
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From: CenTex...sort of
Originally Posted by Glenn
http://shop.hypermotiveperformance.com/BMR_c327.htm

you have two adjustable BMR UCA's what is the difference in the bushings? Poly Vs Polyurethane
One of those is the adjustable UCA. That's why it has the adjustment nut in the center of the shaft.
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