If you have to finance 24k instead of 26k it would be 666.66 per month.

23k would be 638.88

 

I'm not so sure about that -- I think Ford Credit's "normal" meaning non-incentive rate is around 6%

The price guide is posted as a sticky on the first page of this forum, you can find out exactly what invoice is for the options you ordered from that.

Invoice is a good target but don't be surprised if you can't get there, a few hundred over invoice is a good deal.

 

What difference does the invoice for a GT premium make? You aren't talking about a GT premium.

Anyway, yes, go to edmunds and look up and configure the car like you ordered it and it will give you MSRP and invoice,

I would say if you can get it down around 3-500 over invoice then see about the financing at Ford, maybe get the 1.9% for 60.

 

Heck, I'd take THAT. Problem is they're offering 3.99 for 48 months and 4.99 for 60 months IIRC.

 

I was just being a bit lazy, I know I could go look it up all the pricing I want again but I'm looking for opinions with some experience. Clearly I need to talk down the price, from what I've seen everyone else getting I'll shoot for 500 over invoice. Then after that I'll shop around for a loan and try and get around 3% for 60 months. That should cut down on the cost to within reason. I've just never been much of a haggler for price.

 

I'm not sure that's realistic. . .

As for the price, go with $300 over invoice and let them bring you up ot $500.

And please, please, please, do not drool over the car in front of the sales staff. As soon as they know you're emotionally tied to this thing, they'll be far less likely to deal. Be committed but be firm.

 

Oh I think they know I'm emotionally attached. I've been checking with them about it constantly. That's the issue I'm running into, I've shown I really want it. Problem is no matter now much I want it I cannot afford to pay 5-6 grand more for that attachment. They know I really want it which makes my negotiation power much weaker. This is why I was hoping that I could talk down the financing instead.

The California Special is a GT Premium. It just has the CS option added onto it so the invoice price will be based off of the GT Premium invoice price. Right?

 

You have to be willing to WALK AWAY if you don't get the deal.

If you can't do that then they have you over a barrell and they know it and you're screwed.

 

There's very little room in the overall price to negotiate financing. But plenty of room in the purchase price.

Dealers will "steer" you toward their financing. Financing that makes them money. For example, they may say, "We can get you 5.5% with bank X". In reality, bank X probably would have loaned YOU that money directly for 5%. That extra 1/2%? Goes to the dealer. Always a good idea to go into the dealership with your financing pre-arranged unless you're sure you're qualified for and choosing the promotional financing.

I'm going with the 0% and my payments are going to be like a mortgage: Like $800. But I'm saving a few thousand in the long run. IN the mean time, that down payment (like your $15k) will be in the bank COLLECTING interest. As payments are due I may take a little out and put it toward the payment but for the most part, I plan to make money on MY money and not give away money I don't have to.

 

Yeah you're right. I want to give the impression that I could walk but I don't know that I can. That's the problem.

 

I've got a credit score of 770, so I have no doubt I could get 0% financing. I wonder if they'd do 0% for 48 months? probably not.

And pitting dealers against one another isn't "scaring" them, it's called negotiating!

 

Well, bubba, then take your vaseline with you.

 

If you have a Bank of America near you...

 

I used to be like you, most people have been or are that way too.

Just tell yourself that it is just a car and you can get another one somewhere else.

It's okay to be in love with the car AFTER THE DEAL, until then it is just another car.

Otherwise, just go into the dealer and bend over and drop your drawers and take what they give you.

 

What I've seen from others going the BofA route is the "teaser" rate is not usually what you get. You usually get something closer to the 3.99% rate. I recently saw a 2.67% offer from them and almost jumped on it until I heard from others it wasn't actually happening.

Remember the fine print: "Rates as low as" and "a loan fee may apply." Anything you may save could be made up with what they actually offer or charge in fees.

This is one advantage of Credit Unions over Banks. CUs don't play games like that.

 

No, no vaseline, no KY, no scented oils. It has to hurt like hell so he'll remember next time!

 

Those are some good rates. That looks like it takes care of my financing problem. Now about the pricing...

If i can get that interest rate the loan calculator indicates that I just need to drop about a grand off my price. I think I can manage a 1k price drop, I don't think would take much convincing. Anything lower than that would be great but not necessary to afford it. (Thanks guys for your help.)

 

WRONG, WRONG, WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You don't have that financing yet and may not get it and why try to negotiate a price from that perspective?

Go in to negotiate the BEST PRICE, not just one that will get it close to what you can pay, why pay MORE THAN YOU HAVE TO??????????

 

Agreed, and I was skeptical too. But I applied and my rate actually ended up being lower because I have a credit card with them.

 

like corvettdreamin said above, be careful, they show the "best" rates but you probably won't get that rate . . . BofA has good rates, but they are a-holes to deal with, I have tried to get them to tell me up front what my actual rate will really be, but there answer is "you have to apply to find out"

great minds think alike . . . I am thinking pretty much the exact same thing on financing, exact same car (except a few less options for me) . . . let us know how it all works out!