what can do to get better MPG with 3.8v6?
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Joined: January 27, 2012
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From: Georgia
what can do to get better MPG with 3.8v6?
So what can be done to get better MPG? I have not filled it up all way yet only got gas once plan to fill up on Friday ( payday) but putting half tank in it and being on half when got the car it doesn't seem to be getting all that great gas mileage. from what read online looked like most 3.8 could get 20mpg combined highway/city what do you guys get who have 3.8L?
Would a cold air intake help anything?
Would a different exhaust system or muffler and or bigger pipe?
looked under car tonight it looks pretty big from headers dual to the muffler but from muffler back to tail pipe looks like it gets pretty small.
any secrets to this car? I just now tonight after reading the owner manual again where the OD button on the shifter is . is it better to drive with OD off in the city or just leave it as it is
Thanks everyone. Man this is a nice care but no cup holders not used to having to hold my MCD's large sweet tea.
Would a cold air intake help anything?
Would a different exhaust system or muffler and or bigger pipe?
looked under car tonight it looks pretty big from headers dual to the muffler but from muffler back to tail pipe looks like it gets pretty small.
any secrets to this car? I just now tonight after reading the owner manual again where the OD button on the shifter is . is it better to drive with OD off in the city or just leave it as it is
Thanks everyone. Man this is a nice care but no cup holders not used to having to hold my MCD's large sweet tea.
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Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
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From: Insane
HEH, yeah, that. 
But, that's probably not the answer ya want, so... OD on all the time.
Good tire pressure.
CAI and exhaust won't help much. Car's 'wired' to get the MPG if everything is correct. Although, if the current stuff is clogged up, it will definitely help. See below:
Maintenance:
New plugs, proper gaps. New wires. New coilpacks. Check timing. New air filter. New gas filter. Ensure no exhaust or intake blockage. Sometimes a messed up cat converter can be an issue, but you'd usually feel it.
Check all injectors/fuel manifold for leakage. Sometimes an injector won't close, and you wind up with a slightly rich cylinder. Happened to me. Repair/Clean/Replace as needed. I wound up replacing them all in my V6 in the HooptyBird. This also caused the cat to burn gas in it, and that melted down the junk inside it, clog city.
Ensure all EGR/Emissions crap is working correctly too.
Usually, a lot of what I said above will throw a code or two. If your engine light is on, fix the codes.
---
Drive it like you have an egg on the accelerator pedal and you'll crush it. In other words, no "zOMG GO GO GO!!11!!eleventyfast!!" starts. Soft acceleration, steady... don't be in a rush. Use the cruise control, it's your best friend. And get to where the OD kicks in, and stay up there as much as possible.
NO SNAKE OIL. It doesn't do anything. The ONLY thing that ***MIGHT*** help is anything that can reduce friction or compression loss. Slick 50 and Engine Restorer, among others, are products that say they can 'fix' these very items... but I'm not terribly convinced of that, myself.
There are no real secrets. It's a relatively heavy car with a somewhat large V6 in it, all iron and steel, for the most part. Not the most MPG-prone car there is.
If you're all about the mileage, you shouldn't have this car. If you're all about the mileage in relation to other Mustangs of your's kind, then these above will help.
But, that's probably not the answer ya want, so... OD on all the time.
Good tire pressure.
CAI and exhaust won't help much. Car's 'wired' to get the MPG if everything is correct. Although, if the current stuff is clogged up, it will definitely help. See below:
Maintenance:
New plugs, proper gaps. New wires. New coilpacks. Check timing. New air filter. New gas filter. Ensure no exhaust or intake blockage. Sometimes a messed up cat converter can be an issue, but you'd usually feel it.
Check all injectors/fuel manifold for leakage. Sometimes an injector won't close, and you wind up with a slightly rich cylinder. Happened to me. Repair/Clean/Replace as needed. I wound up replacing them all in my V6 in the HooptyBird. This also caused the cat to burn gas in it, and that melted down the junk inside it, clog city.
Ensure all EGR/Emissions crap is working correctly too.
Usually, a lot of what I said above will throw a code or two. If your engine light is on, fix the codes.
---
Drive it like you have an egg on the accelerator pedal and you'll crush it. In other words, no "zOMG GO GO GO!!11!!eleventyfast!!" starts. Soft acceleration, steady... don't be in a rush. Use the cruise control, it's your best friend. And get to where the OD kicks in, and stay up there as much as possible.
NO SNAKE OIL. It doesn't do anything. The ONLY thing that ***MIGHT*** help is anything that can reduce friction or compression loss. Slick 50 and Engine Restorer, among others, are products that say they can 'fix' these very items... but I'm not terribly convinced of that, myself.
There are no real secrets. It's a relatively heavy car with a somewhat large V6 in it, all iron and steel, for the most part. Not the most MPG-prone car there is.
If you're all about the mileage, you shouldn't have this car. If you're all about the mileage in relation to other Mustangs of your's kind, then these above will help.
Last edited by houtex; Jan 31, 2012 at 08:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: January 27, 2012
Posts: 33
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From: Georgia
Thanks, well been driving a SUV for 8 yrs, 16 MPG most of the time. So this should hopefully be lot better then it was.
I like mustangs over other cars ( civics,focus,so on) something rear wheel drive is my fave hate working on front wheel drive cars.
just wondered if anything would help.
Thanks
I like mustangs over other cars ( civics,focus,so on) something rear wheel drive is my fave hate working on front wheel drive cars.
just wondered if anything would help.
Thanks
Cobra R Member
Joined: July 27, 2011
Posts: 1,569
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by houtex
HEH, yeah, that.
But, that's probably not the answer ya want, so... OD on all the time.
Good tire pressure.
CAI and exhaust won't help much. Car's 'wired' to get the MPG if everything is correct. Although, if the current stuff is clogged up, it will definitely help. See below:
Maintenance:
New plugs, proper gaps. New wires. New coilpacks. Check timing. New air filter. New gas filter. Ensure no exhaust or intake blockage. Sometimes a messed up cat converter can be an issue, but you'd usually feel it.
Check all injectors/fuel manifold for leakage. Sometimes an injector won't close, and you wind up with a slightly rich cylinder. Happened to me. Repair/Clean/Replace as needed. I wound up replacing them all in my V6 in the HooptyBird. This also caused the cat to burn gas in it, and that melted down the junk inside it, clog city.
Ensure all EGR/Emissions crap is working correctly too.
Usually, a lot of what I said above will throw a code or two. If your engine light is on, fix the codes.
---
Drive it like you have an egg on the accelerator pedal and you'll crush it. In other words, no "zOMG GO GO GO!!11!!eleventyfast!!" starts. Soft acceleration, steady... don't be in a rush. Use the cruise control, it's your best friend. And get to where the OD kicks in, and stay up there as much as possible.
NO SNAKE OIL. It doesn't do anything. The ONLY thing that ***MIGHT*** help is anything that can reduce friction or compression loss. Slick 50 and Engine Restorer, among others, are products that say they can 'fix' these very items... but I'm not terribly convinced of that, myself.
There are no real secrets. It's a relatively heavy car with a somewhat large V6 in it, all iron and steel, for the most part. Not the most MPG-prone car there is.
If you're all about the mileage, you shouldn't have this car. If you're all about the mileage in relation to other Mustangs of your's kind, then these above will help.
But, that's probably not the answer ya want, so... OD on all the time.
Good tire pressure.
CAI and exhaust won't help much. Car's 'wired' to get the MPG if everything is correct. Although, if the current stuff is clogged up, it will definitely help. See below:
Maintenance:
New plugs, proper gaps. New wires. New coilpacks. Check timing. New air filter. New gas filter. Ensure no exhaust or intake blockage. Sometimes a messed up cat converter can be an issue, but you'd usually feel it.
Check all injectors/fuel manifold for leakage. Sometimes an injector won't close, and you wind up with a slightly rich cylinder. Happened to me. Repair/Clean/Replace as needed. I wound up replacing them all in my V6 in the HooptyBird. This also caused the cat to burn gas in it, and that melted down the junk inside it, clog city.
Ensure all EGR/Emissions crap is working correctly too.
Usually, a lot of what I said above will throw a code or two. If your engine light is on, fix the codes.
---
Drive it like you have an egg on the accelerator pedal and you'll crush it. In other words, no "zOMG GO GO GO!!11!!eleventyfast!!" starts. Soft acceleration, steady... don't be in a rush. Use the cruise control, it's your best friend. And get to where the OD kicks in, and stay up there as much as possible.
NO SNAKE OIL. It doesn't do anything. The ONLY thing that ***MIGHT*** help is anything that can reduce friction or compression loss. Slick 50 and Engine Restorer, among others, are products that say they can 'fix' these very items... but I'm not terribly convinced of that, myself.
There are no real secrets. It's a relatively heavy car with a somewhat large V6 in it, all iron and steel, for the most part. Not the most MPG-prone car there is.
If you're all about the mileage, you shouldn't have this car. If you're all about the mileage in relation to other Mustangs of your's kind, then these above will help.
Follow this and you will get good mpgs! !
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From: Sun City AZ
my first mustang was a 2000 v6. houtex is 100% correct about checking everything and doing maintenance. I drove the car mainly city during the week and got over 20 mpgs and around 29 mpg highway.
I had a mac cai. gt take off exhaust and other fun stuff. none of it really made it get better mpg. I did take very good care of that car tho and it was good to me
I had a mac cai. gt take off exhaust and other fun stuff. none of it really made it get better mpg. I did take very good care of that car tho and it was good to me
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: January 27, 2012
Posts: 33
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From: Georgia
Sweet looking car thanks guys seems like I'm getting about 20mpg city/highway driving. i mostly drive on highway to work but live in the city so few stop signs and lots of redlights going back and forth to wal mart and such
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
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From: Insane
That also is nonsense. The whole nitrogen thing. But there is a complete other thread about it, I'll spare the excruciating details and sum up:
It will not help you unless you are *racing* or plan to *never change your tires/wheels ever. (longevity)*
The point is to keep the tires at the proper pressure, and use correctly rated tires. That's it. Nitrogen is only good if you're selling it.
It will not help you unless you are *racing* or plan to *never change your tires/wheels ever. (longevity)*
The point is to keep the tires at the proper pressure, and use correctly rated tires. That's it. Nitrogen is only good if you're selling it.
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Joined: December 17, 2011
Posts: 924
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I had never done any research on it, but I just looked it up and this is what I gathered:
With nitrogen, your tire pressures will remain more constant, saving you a small amount in fuel and tire-maintenance costs. There will be less moisture inside your tires, meaning less corrosion on your wheels. You will not be able to feel any difference in the ride or handling or braking, unless your tire pressures were seriously out of spec and changing to nitrogen brought them back to the proper numbers.
/I actually just got an email from American Muscle. The email said when you order tires, you can have them filled with nitrogen for free.
With nitrogen, your tire pressures will remain more constant, saving you a small amount in fuel and tire-maintenance costs. There will be less moisture inside your tires, meaning less corrosion on your wheels. You will not be able to feel any difference in the ride or handling or braking, unless your tire pressures were seriously out of spec and changing to nitrogen brought them back to the proper numbers.
/I actually just got an email from American Muscle. The email said when you order tires, you can have them filled with nitrogen for free.
Last edited by Skylar; Feb 8, 2012 at 07:18 PM.
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Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
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From: Insane
But you can't get them refilled for free, likely.
re: corrosion: Do you know how many *years* it takes to corrode wheels? Probably past the life of most cars. And that's assuming steel wheels. Aluminum, magnesium, they DO NOT corrode from the air in the tires.
But let's stick to steel: There are still good rims from 40s cars about. They don't corrode, and here is why: The amount of water in the air being put in the tires is *miniscule*, unless the air being pumped and compressed is 50% water... you can't breathe that, so it's unlikely you can compress it.
You are more likely to have corrosion due to the OUTSIDE wearing out than inside. This is simply silly, and they are preying on ignorance.
---
Your tire pressures will remain constant regardless of the air vs nitrogen. You are talking about 22% non-N components. The other 22% is oxygen at 8%, 2% other trace elements, and 12% carbon dioxide.
You will not notice any difference in pressure. There is absolutely NO scientific basis for this claim unless you are **RACING**, and on an oval superspeedway.
I say again, it is a **gimmick** and will cost you nothing but money. The effort it takes to bring a tire to spec on the pressure is miniscule and virtually free, especially if you frequent a decent tire shop or an oil change place which will correct the PSI to whatever you need.
---
But hey, if you just gotta do it, don't lemme stop ya. It's your wallet.
re: corrosion: Do you know how many *years* it takes to corrode wheels? Probably past the life of most cars. And that's assuming steel wheels. Aluminum, magnesium, they DO NOT corrode from the air in the tires.
But let's stick to steel: There are still good rims from 40s cars about. They don't corrode, and here is why: The amount of water in the air being put in the tires is *miniscule*, unless the air being pumped and compressed is 50% water... you can't breathe that, so it's unlikely you can compress it.
You are more likely to have corrosion due to the OUTSIDE wearing out than inside. This is simply silly, and they are preying on ignorance.
---
Your tire pressures will remain constant regardless of the air vs nitrogen. You are talking about 22% non-N components. The other 22% is oxygen at 8%, 2% other trace elements, and 12% carbon dioxide.
You will not notice any difference in pressure. There is absolutely NO scientific basis for this claim unless you are **RACING**, and on an oval superspeedway.
I say again, it is a **gimmick** and will cost you nothing but money. The effort it takes to bring a tire to spec on the pressure is miniscule and virtually free, especially if you frequent a decent tire shop or an oil change place which will correct the PSI to whatever you need.
---
But hey, if you just gotta do it, don't lemme stop ya. It's your wallet.
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