I drove it around just now and when I got back I left it in neutral for a bit with the clutch in and it stalls out and then with the clutch out and it stalls out. I restart it and I rev it up it comes down holds steady for just a second and then dies again.

Could be a vaccum leak or EGR. Or my throttle cables are not adjusted properly-says my buddy

What do you guys think?

 

The first thing any OBD drivability concern should check is Trouble codes... Without a scan for codes it's just an educated guess at best... EGR , Idle Air Control, Mass Air Flow sensor etc..As far as adjusting the throttle cable...? Your buddy probably means the idle screw adjustment...it should idle around 750-800 rpm.

 

Definitely... I started it up today and let it idle for a good while and it didn't die. So I guess that was a weird thing then. But I'll check and clean and replace EGR, IAC, And MAF Sensor come payday anyway.
Thanks for the reply

 

hmm we think alike..
https://themustangsource.com/f636/wh...stalls-511231/

double post.


95_5.0 you can still have codes and why in the world would you just replace parts for the sake of it . that makes no sense at all. the maf could be dirty, teh egr could be getting hung up from carbon, the iac just may be dirty, the list goes on. still check for codes, then troubleshoot. doesn't hurt to clean certian parts but don't fix/replace what isn't broken.

 

Yes Skunk, it's a bit of a Pet Peeve of mine for guys to " throw parts at it" no offense to anyone, but it's worth the minor effort of a quick scan and a few simple diagnostic test. I myself will take a short cut sometimes.... Just due to the fact it's sometimes easier to replace an old hard to get to sensor than to test it. Without to much blabbing on... In my opinion it's always worth a little research and leg work for a confident diagnosis!