Subframe connector question
Subframe connector question
I own a 2003 Cobra that is making close to 500rwhp and it has been suggested to me that i put subframe connectors on my car. I guess most say it is a must for 4th gen cars but I have a few questions.
What is the major difference between regular compared to full length? I'm not a hard core drag racer so do I really need the full length? Also do I need specific sub frame connectors for an 03-04 Cobra? All I can find is 79-04 connectors but I know that the 03-04 Cobras already have some chassis stiffening that the others do not. I have just gotten a 3 point strut tower brace that will compliment the connectors. Can anyone tell me how big a difference I will likely notice?
CJPonyparts has a 15% off promo going on so i may take advantage of it before it's too late any feedback I can get would be great thanks in advance as I know most of you are more informitive than I.
What is the major difference between regular compared to full length? I'm not a hard core drag racer so do I really need the full length? Also do I need specific sub frame connectors for an 03-04 Cobra? All I can find is 79-04 connectors but I know that the 03-04 Cobras already have some chassis stiffening that the others do not. I have just gotten a 3 point strut tower brace that will compliment the connectors. Can anyone tell me how big a difference I will likely notice?
CJPonyparts has a 15% off promo going on so i may take advantage of it before it's too late any feedback I can get would be great thanks in advance as I know most of you are more informitive than I.
Now this is only my own opinion and I really only know about two brands and that is griggs and MM. I purchased a set of the FL MM and when I went to have them put on I was talking to the owner of the shop and he told me there's not a huge benefit to the FL. I then looked at the griggs and compared the two, the griggs was shorter and thinner but its a solid piece whereas the MM was basically a long piece of tube steel that's about twice the size but hollow. I personally went with the griggs manly based on that reason. Just seemed like a stronger piece to me 
You will notice a huge difference. It was amazing after I put them on my V6. The handling improved and it just felt like an all around more solid car.

You will notice a huge difference. It was amazing after I put them on my V6. The handling improved and it just felt like an all around more solid car.
Last edited by 1999Pony; Feb 25, 2011 at 06:04 PM.
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
You do not need to buy Cobra specific parts. The floorpan is basically the same from 79-04, so any of them should work. My suggestion would also be for MM or Griggs. The only problem I have for Griggs is that they have a chassis strengthening system, and my thought process says that the reason that Griggs can get away with having a "shorter and thinner" piece is because it is part of that system; where MM's are their complete package. I may be wrong, but that's what I figured when I was looking around.
The Cobra does come with "SFC's." I put quotes because I'm not really sure how much they actually do in terms of connecting the subframes. It's a hollow square tube that is bolted to the unibody. I'm sure that it must have made some difference, or else the penny pinchers at Ford would not have OKed it, but they will be removed when you are installing any real SFC's.
The Cobra does come with "SFC's." I put quotes because I'm not really sure how much they actually do in terms of connecting the subframes. It's a hollow square tube that is bolted to the unibody. I'm sure that it must have made some difference, or else the penny pinchers at Ford would not have OKed it, but they will be removed when you are installing any real SFC's.
I would suggested them and you will feel a difference. The 3-Point Front strut brace will also be a welcomed addition! The car will feel "tighter" and you (should) notice reduced flex depending how hard you drive.
I have full length sub-frame connectors on my Mach (like MM, but custom/thicker from a local mustang performance shop), Steeda 2-pt front brace, MM k-member brace and Steeda 2-pt rear shock tower brace (along with some other suspension mods). You will like the difference!
I have full length sub-frame connectors on my Mach (like MM, but custom/thicker from a local mustang performance shop), Steeda 2-pt front brace, MM k-member brace and Steeda 2-pt rear shock tower brace (along with some other suspension mods). You will like the difference!
Thanks for the imput everyone. I decided to go with the full length MM subframes. I can't wait for the Spring so I can add all the goodies to my hibernating Cobra. Along with the subframes I also got a Bassani cat-back and a steeda 3 point strut tower brace. I think the mods on the Cobra are complete..... next step save up for a GT500 lol
Thanks for the imput everyone. I decided to go with the full length MM subframes. I can't wait for the Spring so I can add all the goodies to my hibernating Cobra. Along with the subframes I also got a Bassani cat-back and a steeda 3 point strut tower brace. I think the mods on the Cobra are complete..... next step save up for a GT500 lol
The mods arn't too crazy just got a chip, tune, pulley, cold air kit I am making 430rwhp on dynojet with a concervative tune when I first bought the car it was making over 450 but it was running lean.... don't know how accurate those are but the car was also dynoed in 97 degree weather... I think a heat exchanger might be the final mod because heat soak sure does sap some power out of these termies.
Sorry I said close to 500rwhp i meant flywheel HP
Sorry I said close to 500rwhp i meant flywheel HP
Last edited by 97GT03SVT; Mar 6, 2011 at 06:03 PM.
I honestly don't remember. I remember the shop telling me I was running about 16psi of boost (had some mods when I bought it) hope that tells you what size pulley it is because I'd sure like to know!
If you do the pulley swap I'd also recommend getting a belt tensioner. My friend's Cobra with a pulley swap without one sometimes sees a little lag between shifts. I'm pretty sure it is a cheap part
If you do the pulley swap I'd also recommend getting a belt tensioner. My friend's Cobra with a pulley swap without one sometimes sees a little lag between shifts. I'm pretty sure it is a cheap part
Last edited by 97GT03SVT; Mar 9, 2011 at 07:19 PM.
I honestly don't remember. I remember the shop telling me I was running about 16psi of boost (had some mods when I bought it) hope that tells you what size pulley it is because I'd sure like to know!
If you do the pulley swap I'd also recommend getting a belt tensioner. My friend's Cobra with a pulley swap without one sometimes sees a little lag between shifts. I'm pretty sure it is a cheap part
If you do the pulley swap I'd also recommend getting a belt tensioner. My friend's Cobra with a pulley swap without one sometimes sees a little lag between shifts. I'm pretty sure it is a cheap part
There is a chart on this page http://stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_...m#_Toc35092354
4 lb./2.80 8.60 2.80 47.51% 16.0 19,964
8 lb./3.10 9.55 3.10 47.95% 16.0 20,024
6 lb./2.93 9.10 2.93 49.16% 16.1 20,188
4 lb./2.76 8.60 2.76 49.65% 16.2 20,254
first column is the combination of lower and upper pulleys, those are all the ones near 16psi.
I eventually want to get a 4lb lower and make 16 lbs of boost.
Last edited by Knight; Mar 10, 2011 at 08:03 AM.
Been saying it for years, any SN95 and fox, first mod before anything should be a good set of full length subframe connectors. MM and Griggs being the best, also Kenny Brown stuff is great if you can find it.
Also to note when subframes are installed, its best to have them put on using a drive on lift so that the weight of the car is on the suspension and everything is in its normal load.
Also to note when subframes are installed, its best to have them put on using a drive on lift so that the weight of the car is on the suspension and everything is in its normal load.
16psi you would have to be running an upper and lower pulley.
There is a chart on this page http://stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_...m#_Toc35092354
4 lb./2.80 8.60 2.80 47.51% 16.0 19,964
8 lb./3.10 9.55 3.10 47.95% 16.0 20,024
6 lb./2.93 9.10 2.93 49.16% 16.1 20,188
4 lb./2.76 8.60 2.76 49.65% 16.2 20,254
first column is the combination of lower and upper pulleys, those are all the ones near 16psi.
I eventually want to get a 4lb lower and make 16 lbs of boost.
There is a chart on this page http://stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_...m#_Toc35092354
4 lb./2.80 8.60 2.80 47.51% 16.0 19,964
8 lb./3.10 9.55 3.10 47.95% 16.0 20,024
6 lb./2.93 9.10 2.93 49.16% 16.1 20,188
4 lb./2.76 8.60 2.76 49.65% 16.2 20,254
first column is the combination of lower and upper pulleys, those are all the ones near 16psi.
I eventually want to get a 4lb lower and make 16 lbs of boost.
I do have an upper and lower pulley I just don't know the sizes
Been saying it for years, any SN95 and fox, first mod before anything should be a good set of full length subframe connectors. MM and Griggs being the best, also Kenny Brown stuff is great if you can find it.
Also to note when subframes are installed, its best to have them put on using a drive on lift so that the weight of the car is on the suspension and everything is in its normal load.
Also to note when subframes are installed, its best to have them put on using a drive on lift so that the weight of the car is on the suspension and everything is in its normal load.
Last edited by 69_gt500; Mar 16, 2011 at 05:31 PM.
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
I've had them for over a year. They just don't do a whole lot when they're under your bed...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




