ok guys, im needing help, trying to get the flasher out but it seems to not want to seperate its self from the piece that it site in, and I don't want to damage it and even as a short person im having a very hard time getting under the dash to complete the removal, and I attempted to remove the kick panel but had a heck of a time getting that to even budge, and I don't want to damage it or any other of the clips....so I ask you guys for some guidance mainly anyone who has either installed a replacement flasher or one of the raxiom flashers...HELP!!



Thanks for the help and allowing me to learn a lot about the SN95!

 

From American Muscle, the instructions for the Raxiom Flasher for those models.

And the flasher's product page.

Now, this is for a '96-04, so if you're pre-96, well... you needed to list that.

I hope that helps, but... it should just unplug.

Also, it's a flasher... If I'm doin' this, I'm not terribly concerned with the thing remounting up there, that's what teeny zip ties and some sticky tape are for. Rip the mount off. HULK SMASH.

/Don't do this...
//But do this if needed, I'd say.

 

Thanks, its a 2004 (sorry I was half asleep when I decided to post this after looking for various vids on how to remove the little B@$T@RD!!! I will be trying again later today.


also on a side note if I want to remove the seats, I see the two front bolts, but there don't appear to be rear bolts??? am I missing something here, or should the plastic like covers pop off to reveal them?

I figure the removal of the seat may make it much simpler to get my body in the car so I can get the little yellow flasher out...at least make it so im not contorted in an odd position...

 

Hey Jim,

Although I can see where this install is confusing, it should only take you a few minutes!

Check out the Installation Guide, this should help point you in the right direction!

On top of that, check out this video that explains just how it works:

 

cool, thanks for the info! I managed to get the little bugger off of its metal perch.

 

Awesome!

How are you liking everything now? I'm sure it looks great!

Let me know if I can help with anything else.

-Will

 

I haven't bought any thing just yet, im looking at doing an LED swap but don't want to deal with junky resisters, and other wiring mess that usually involves. I like the slower style of the older trucks and cars (90's and before) just seems more proper?


also waiting for other purchases to go through before I pull the trigger on any thing more...

 

Alex, did you just post the *same info* as I did?

Just curious...

Love,

 

well as for the info it seems you both posted variations of the same, but either way thanks guys are there any other LED type flashers out there that dNOT require load resisters to be wired in just to use LEDs? I plan on swapping to the type with load resisters built in as well...just got to dig them out of the truck (I decided if the new flasher for the truck doesn't do what I want it to or hope the bulbs will get transplanted into the Mustang...so I will be learning about that process soon...

 

All LED lights will require resistors. Whether they're 'baked in' to the assembly (like the '13-14 look '05-09 tail lamp assemblies) or you have to splice it in because you changed out the filaments with LED lamps, the resistor has to be there, somewhere, or it will blink wrong.

Filaments have resistance. Ever notice how when one of the myriad of lamps in your turn signals burn out that the turn signal blinks faster? That's because of the lowered resistance of the system. The one missing filament causes the flasher/blinker to charge too fast before it hits the threshold that switches the current off, where it resets and starts the process over again.

Well, LEDs look like burnt out lamps because they don't have as much resistance, by a lot. So you have to compensate for that by using a LED aware blinker, or an integrated circuit that 'logically' blinks via a timer of some sort, or stick a resistor in the circuit to mimic the filament.

Or... leave the old lights in there and add the LEDs, but that's sort of defeating the purpose.

In any event, as long as the system expects filament bulbs, you will have resistors or other trickery to get it to work like it used to when swapping with LEDs.

Hope that helps!

 

oh I understand about the filaments, I don't mind having the resisters, I just want to try and minimize the whole splice and dice methoud and (would prefer) to keep it all "in line" if that makes any sense