Hi

I bought a 2004 terminator a few years ago with 21k miles, I've since put around 5k miles on it and lately the clutch seems to be weak and chattering when engaging it from a stop. I realize that previous owners could have certainly added additional wear to the clutch if they weren't knowledgable stick drivers but this seems premature. The car is bone stock and the car has enough torque from the factory to launch without much clutch slippage, even for an inexperienced driver. The gear shift on the other hand is a different story

I'm curious to what other people's experience with the clutches in these cars, when did they need a replacement? Is there something else wrong?

 

Also I seem to be leaking diff fluid from the IRS, nothing major but it leaves a spot on the concrete. Anyone else experience this? Could be the diff cover seal, I'm not sure yet. I need to get under there and look.

 

I should think the clutch would be fine, but an upgrade wouldn't hurt. Especially if you plan on doing anything to it going forward.

 

I was planning on leaving it stock, I never expected to have to put a clutch in it. I'm trying to more or less preserve the car to hand it down to my kids one day. I probably should change the clutch but since I never drive it I'm going to need to dig deep for the motivation.

I was hoping that the chattering/weak clutch maybe had an easier fix than a new clutch, it was a long shot but I thought I would ask.

 

While it could be the friction material is worn out, or perhaps an outside chance the flywheel surface is messed up, I'm betting it's a spring in the clutch plate is broken

But there's only one way to find that out...

 

X-Ray the transmission?

Just J/k. Good point about the spring but essentially the same end result, I wouldn't take it apart without replacing the clutch.

 

Yeah, that was sorta implied.

I'm talkin' about the X-Ray, of course.

 

You have an aluminum flywheel in your car. Sounds like someone was riding the clutch too much at one time. The stock clutch in those cars is pretty sorry also. Get the flywheel turned and replace that clutch with something much better. There's no other way once that aluminum flywheel gets hot spots on it.

 

Interesting, I wasn't aware that the cars had an aluminum flywheel. Thanks for the info.

 

They can last a long time or a very short time. It's all about the driver. I've seen people(obviously in other cars than Cobras) get well over 150k+ miles out of the stock clutch. That's about what I had on my v6 mustang before my throw out bearing went out and I just went ahead and did my clutch anyways while I was in there even though it still had a ton of material still on it. If someone owned it that rode the clutch a lot or was just terrible at driving it it could easily be bad already

 

while your in there, if your replacing clutch disks, and all that fun stuff, be sure to hit the throw out bearing, mine is starting to make a bit of chatter when its in Neutral and I need to replace mine in the stang...

 

For now I've decided to quit driving it for a while, I don't feel like replacing the clutch at this time. I'll just drive it around the block every few months, at that rate I shouldn't need to do anything for a few years. I pull out the trans one of these days when I'm bored and having nothing else to do

 

The aluminum flywheel has a replaceable steel friction plate. McLeod can relate the insert for (IIRC) $120-$130.

On my car, the TOB Retainer Tube broke (I went with the unit sold by Lethal Performance), clutch was still good, but P/P fingers were scored by TOB. I elected to replace everything. I went with a Fidenza flywheel because I would not need to send it in to replace the insert, (I can replace it myself). However, back then, Fidenza had a pretty good reputation. Now, I would get the Spec flywheel, along with a Spec clutch, and have the units balanced by Spec. Too many reported problems with bad QC at Fidenza.

I went with the Spec 3+ and am very happy (correct break-in is key). No chatter and it grabs real good. I threw away the Spec supplied TOB and went with an FRPP HD TOB. Also replaced the pilot bearing, pivot and clutch arm at that time.