SN95 Mustang 1994-2004 Mustangs Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

Changing front tie rods and ball joints. Any advice or warnings?

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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 05:13 AM
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poehitman's Avatar
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Exclamation Changing front tie rods and ball joints. Any advice or warnings?

This is my first time seriously working on my car. I replaced my alternator myself, but that seemed rather simple and straight forward compared to this. I know I have to either measure the distance of the tie rod ends or count the number of turns when I remove them so I put them back in the same position I found them. But that's generic stuff. Anything specific to my model Mustang (2004 3.9L V6 - 40th Anniv. Edition) that I need to watch out for? This is my first time seriously working on my car. I replaced my alternator myself, but that seemed rather simple and straight forward compared to this. I know I have to either measure the distance of the tie rod ends or count the number of turns when I remove them so I put them back in the same position I found them. But that's generic stuff. Anything specific to my model Mustang (2004 3.9L V6 - 40th Anniv. Edition) that I need to watch out for?
This is my first time seriously working on my car. I replaced my alternator myself, but that seemed rather simple and straight forward compared to this. I know I have to either measure the distance of the tie rod ends or count the number of turns when I remove them so I put them back in the same position I found them. But that's generic stuff. Anything specific to my model Mustang (2004 3.9L V6 - 40th Anniv. Edition) that I need to watch out for?
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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Nothing real specific. I would count the turns but I would still take it in for an alignment after replacing ball joints and tie rod ends. I've had to do both of those on both sides of my car (04 v6). Had a ball joint break on me in a parking lot once so just be sure you replace those
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by LivinTheStangLife
Nothing real specific. I would count the turns but I would still take it in for an alignment after replacing ball joints and tie rod ends. I've had to do both of those on both sides of my car (04 v6). Had a ball joint break on me in a parking lot once so just be sure you replace those
Yeah, the tie rod end itself looks pretty straight forward. I also have a set of Steering rack ends that came with the set of parts I bought. I figured I might as well replace those while I have everything apart. Anything special to look out for with those? Also, any tips on removing and replacing the ball joint? Mine isn't broken, but I'm pretty sure it's won. I have a "ball joint separator" that looks like a tuning fork. What is that used for if I need the press to get the ball joint out.

Oh, and are there any torque specs on these nuts when I put them back on the tie rod end and the ball joint? Or do I just tighten them up like any normal nut?
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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Are you talking about inner tie rods? I've replaced whole rack assemblies but I've never replaced anything but outer tie rod ends. They have ball joint presses. Any auto store should have them to lend out. The fork is usually to help separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle as they are usually a b**** to seperate sometimes. just be careful you dont let the control arm swing down and let the spring come shooting out. But if you have the sway bar link still on it should hold it up. Been a few years since I did mine. They should have torque specs, I'm not sure what they are at the moment but they should be online somewhere

Last edited by LivinTheStangLife; Jul 8, 2014 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LivinTheStangLife
Are you talking about inner tie rods? I've replaced whole rack assemblies but I've never replaced anything but outer tie rod ends. They have ball joint presses. Any auto store should have them to lend out. The fork is usually to help separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle as they are usually a b**** to seperate sometimes. just be careful you dont let the control arm swing down and let the spring come shooting out. But if you have the sway bar link still on it should hold it up. Been a few years since I did mine. They should have torque specs, I'm not sure what they are at the moment but they should be online somewhere
I'm guessing that's what they are. The box they came in says "rack ends", but they look like what the tie rod ends screw onto. In addition to my floor jack I have a bottle jack and a scissor jack. I could use one of those to keep pressure on the control arm to keep the spring from flying out.
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