Alternator?
You can also (prior to going to Auto Zone, etc.) perform the following . . .
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/dtcodes.htm
&
HEC Instrument Cluster Diagnostics
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/99hec.htm
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/dtcodes.htm
&
HEC Instrument Cluster Diagnostics
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/99hec.htm
17. Push it again and the battery voltage input to your cluster is shown (current battery level) 0 - 255. See chart below for normal settings.
Originally Posted by Dbranham
I have the same problem. I tested everything. It's just the subs in the trunk hitting. Makes my lights fade. So we got a better battery because before it would die. But all good now
Originally Posted by Pete07GT
You do know this is why people run power caps and (or) 2 batteries, right?
Is the alt charge on that gauge test? If so it was 15.5v-ish. I've been thinking of a new battery but it reads just over 12v so it's still good. It starts first time everytime. If I press the brake and both window buttons I can almost stall the car. Drops to about 200rpm.
Originally Posted by SVTCobraR315
Is the alt charge on that gauge test? If so it was 15.5v-ish. I've been thinking of a new battery but it reads just over 12v so it's still good. It starts first time everytime. If I press the brake and both window buttons I can almost stall the car. Drops to about 200rpm.



