94 gt 5.0 oil pan replacement
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From: Michigan
94 gt 5.0 oil pan replacement
I need to change my oil pan. I really do not want to
How did you do yours?
what else should I do while there?
pump, pickup etc. rear main seal?
or should I just take it in to mechanic? any ideas on the cost if i decide to take it in?
How did you do yours?
what else should I do while there?
pump, pickup etc. rear main seal?
or should I just take it in to mechanic? any ideas on the cost if i decide to take it in?
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Joined: February 2, 2004
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From: Insane
I'm assuming from the words used mean you are thinking about attempting this in car, and not engine out, correct? If so read on. If it is engine out, do all those things except maybe the pickup, and all of that's fairly straight forward, no tricks involved, just remove/install as needed. Torques and patterns are in the shop manual and/or elsewhere in the intarwebs. CLEAN THE OIL PUMP FIRST. See below regarding. Otherwise, eject from this point, the rest don't apply to an engine out.
Pickup? Eh, probably not, just clean the one you've got, apply whatever seals needed on reinstall (gasket, goop, o ring, or nothing at all, depending). Main seal isn't accessible unless the transmission isn't attached, so no on that one from just your description. Oil pump would be recommended, since you're there, however, that's more gonna be dictated as to whether you're gonna pull the K member to do this or not, as I'm not sure you can do it without removing the K member... I'd have to read up on that... In any event, when you get the oil pump, void the warranty if applicable and *OPEN THE THING UP FIRST*. Wouldn't be the first person to get a new pump and it have debris/shavings in it that ruins the pump first start. Open it up, inspect, clean it out just in case, put it back together. Get the Melling, don't mess around, and maybe get the high volume replacement if they have one.
The proper procedure *IN CAR* is thus:
Raise car on jackstands or similar safe way to get it in the air. All four corners, although if you want to be Danger Mouse, go ahead and just do the front, I ain't yer boss.
Drain oil.
Remove K member.(*) This entails everything you don't want to do, but it's gotta be done. More below.
Remove oil pan. Discard if replacing pan, clean if retaining pan.
Remove gasket material if still on block. You want a clean mating surface on the block for the gasket to go on.
Install gasket on pan with a small skim coat of black RTV on the pan first. This is to glue it on the pan, NOT to seal it.
Install pan, install and torque bolts as needed and in proper order. There may be RTV required on certain areas before pan goes on, read up on that.
Install K member, install and torque bolts/nuts as needed and in proper order.
Lower car.
Fill with oil.
Drive off.
(*) K member will usually entail disconnecting power steering rack, steering column, engine mounts, and front suspension to get the thing out. It's the worst part of the entire job... well, that and working under the car with a half ton of engine hanging over your head. Which by the way means you need to get an engine cradle/support to hold up the engine, and that means you'll need to figure out what to take off the top side to get that hanging part done.
However, it has been noted that you *may* can just slightly lower the K member down to get the pan out. I'm not sure if this is advisable or not, but there are videos and documents in them intarwebs that'll show you/tell you. I'd be cautious as taking a K member with the engine in it down from its normal position just adds danger that I'm not sure I'm happy with, at least not without also having engine support above. But that's me.
All that said, you want a shop manual for your car. May can find it online, or may need to buy it. Get the FORD one, not the Haynes or Chiltons as they're more... generic. Oh, they're not terrible, mind, just... yeah, Ford, do it.
An aside, but maybe helpful: I recommend highly this silly thing:
https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb...ack-60234.html
Not a sponsor, just a fan. This thing was *tremendously* useful for that K member to come out. Just stuck it under that K member, jacked it up, did the bolts/nuts (having the engine supported, mind), lowered it, and voila, right out of the car, easy peasy. Worth every dang penny, and if you catch something like this on sale, bonus. I've used it for various other items, not just the transmission.
Aw, heck, while I'm promoting things, also handy is this thing:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...bar-96524.html
I tell you whut, that's been a *handy* think to have in the shop. Not just for engines. Mostly for engines, yeah, but still, works for other stuff.
Again, not a sponsor, not a plug, just a fan, tryin' to help.
So. That's the basics-ish of the situation. Armed with that... should you go to a mechanic? That's really for you to decide. Hope that helps, have a good one! 
Related video explaining the pump, not the K member issue, as the drive rod is kind of important, and from under the car will be *real* fun.
Pickup? Eh, probably not, just clean the one you've got, apply whatever seals needed on reinstall (gasket, goop, o ring, or nothing at all, depending). Main seal isn't accessible unless the transmission isn't attached, so no on that one from just your description. Oil pump would be recommended, since you're there, however, that's more gonna be dictated as to whether you're gonna pull the K member to do this or not, as I'm not sure you can do it without removing the K member... I'd have to read up on that... In any event, when you get the oil pump, void the warranty if applicable and *OPEN THE THING UP FIRST*. Wouldn't be the first person to get a new pump and it have debris/shavings in it that ruins the pump first start. Open it up, inspect, clean it out just in case, put it back together. Get the Melling, don't mess around, and maybe get the high volume replacement if they have one.
The proper procedure *IN CAR* is thus:
Raise car on jackstands or similar safe way to get it in the air. All four corners, although if you want to be Danger Mouse, go ahead and just do the front, I ain't yer boss.
Drain oil.
Remove K member.(*) This entails everything you don't want to do, but it's gotta be done. More below.
Remove oil pan. Discard if replacing pan, clean if retaining pan.
Remove gasket material if still on block. You want a clean mating surface on the block for the gasket to go on.
Install gasket on pan with a small skim coat of black RTV on the pan first. This is to glue it on the pan, NOT to seal it.
Install pan, install and torque bolts as needed and in proper order. There may be RTV required on certain areas before pan goes on, read up on that.
Install K member, install and torque bolts/nuts as needed and in proper order.
Lower car.
Fill with oil.
Drive off.
(*) K member will usually entail disconnecting power steering rack, steering column, engine mounts, and front suspension to get the thing out. It's the worst part of the entire job... well, that and working under the car with a half ton of engine hanging over your head. Which by the way means you need to get an engine cradle/support to hold up the engine, and that means you'll need to figure out what to take off the top side to get that hanging part done.
However, it has been noted that you *may* can just slightly lower the K member down to get the pan out. I'm not sure if this is advisable or not, but there are videos and documents in them intarwebs that'll show you/tell you. I'd be cautious as taking a K member with the engine in it down from its normal position just adds danger that I'm not sure I'm happy with, at least not without also having engine support above. But that's me.
All that said, you want a shop manual for your car. May can find it online, or may need to buy it. Get the FORD one, not the Haynes or Chiltons as they're more... generic. Oh, they're not terrible, mind, just... yeah, Ford, do it.
An aside, but maybe helpful: I recommend highly this silly thing:
https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb...ack-60234.html
Not a sponsor, just a fan. This thing was *tremendously* useful for that K member to come out. Just stuck it under that K member, jacked it up, did the bolts/nuts (having the engine supported, mind), lowered it, and voila, right out of the car, easy peasy. Worth every dang penny, and if you catch something like this on sale, bonus. I've used it for various other items, not just the transmission.
Aw, heck, while I'm promoting things, also handy is this thing:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...bar-96524.html
I tell you whut, that's been a *handy* think to have in the shop. Not just for engines. Mostly for engines, yeah, but still, works for other stuff.
Again, not a sponsor, not a plug, just a fan, tryin' to help.So. That's the basics-ish of the situation. Armed with that... should you go to a mechanic? That's really for you to decide.
Hope that helps, have a good one! Related video explaining the pump, not the K member issue, as the drive rod is kind of important, and from under the car will be *real* fun.
Last edited by houtex; Mar 20, 2022 at 09:31 AM.
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