This is probably a really stupid question to you guys, but since I don't have any experience adding amps to a system I need a little advice/opinions please.
I will eventually be adding these two amps to my system:
This to run the front/rear speakers. 100-140 Watts RMS @ 2 ohms(Alpine site says 140w all other places say 100w)
Attachment 7301
This to run a sub. 600 watt RMS @ 2 ohms
Attachment 7302
Total Watts RMS = 700-740, right ?
Is it necessary to run a 1/0 Gauge Power Wire or is 4 Gauge sufficient?
The run will be from the battery, through the firewall, down the passenger side to a distribution block in the trunk. I'm guessing this distance to be around 10-12ft.

I can list the rest of the system (speakers, sub, HU) that will be in place at that time too if it is necessary.

 

2 gauge would be needed, but there is so little 2ag made, it is hard to find connectors. Go ahead and run 1/0- it is very easy to run in this car. I did it exactly like you stated. From the block you can determine wether to run 4 or 8 to the individual amps. 8 will be sufficient, 4 factors in a bit of overkill. Nice amps. I'd like to have the PDX's myself.

 

I would like the PDXs as well, but they are a bit pricey for me.
I got a couple more questions if you will;
Do you remember about how many feet of 1/0 you used for the run?
Do you think a Capacitor would be needed for this system? and if so what Farad?
And one more, where did you hook up your remote on/off too ?
Sorry really not UP TO SPEED on all the in/outs of the stereo wiring.

 

15 feet

My remote comes from an aftermarket deck, the Ford one is only 5v, so find a switched source.

Capacitor= worthless ****. If you'd like the full explanation, just LMK, I'll do it tonight. It's bedtime now.

 

I would like to hear your thoughts on this, you can PM if you don't want to post it here.
Thanks.

 

i ran 1/0 gauge from my battery, to the drivers side, along the side into the trunk. I used 19 feet (had about 1 extra foot left over). 4 guage will be to small and for the price and install, i would do 1/0 again. I am running a MTX 8100d with the alpine 150X4. i use a power block in the trunk and run 2 gauge to my sub amp and 8 guage to my front amp. If you using the sock deck, you will need a ACC lead to splice into. If your switching to an eftermarket deck, it will have a lead for it. My suggestion, dont spend this money on amps and sub until you get a new head unit. My system sounded alot better after a new head unit, even on the stock amps and speakers.

 

The order I intend to do this in;
Speakers (already purchased & 1/2 of them installed), HU and lastly Amps & Sub.
Did you guys replace the speaker wire too, or just tap into the factory wires?
If I am going to replace the speaker wires I want to do it NOW while I have the doors torn apart for the Front Speaker Install.

 

I'm probably pushing the same power you are going to, I've got a ppi pc2150 amp bridged (600Wrms @ 4ohms)running an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 and a 45x4 amp for my internal speakers and I ran 4gauge wire and I've got no problems. I do have a 1.2 farad capacitor in the mix as well.

 

I cut the on/off switch from the back of the stock stereo. Forgot which color combo it was but I have had it since November and not problems. But I am running only one amp at 460 RMS @ 4 ohms bridged. Using 4 Gauge wire.

 

Not worried about the remote on/off anymore, as I just looked at the Owner's Manual of the HU I am getting and it has a lead for that.
I think I will use 1/0 Gauge as you can never have TOO big a wire can you ?
Just need to get the head unit ASAP.
**** I am going to spend more on mods than I did for the car

 

i dont post my mod list ever, but im feeling your pain

you CAN use the factory wiring, but im the type of guy to do things right the first time so i dont have to worry about it down the road. I would run some 12-14 guage. May seem like over kill, but if you ever move up and get a more powerful front amp, you wont have to re-wire. Running small speaker wire or power wire is like putting a honda air intake on your mustang. Ya you could tune it to run fine, but your not going to get the full potential from all the other parts.

let me know your how speaker install goes, im hoping to have my car back saturday and start my front speaker installation as well.

current audio specs:
Alpine ica-w200 dvd player (installed)
Mtx 8100d sub amp (installed)
2-Kicker L5 subs (installed)
alpine PDX-4.150 front amp (on order still)
mb quart 5.25 and tweet compenent set with the 6 in woofer addon (siting in my garage)
ALL kicker wiring (check this stuff out, some of the nicest wiring i have ever seen. Try tying 1/0 guage in a tight knot

 

Same HU I am getting.
Power Line and Remote On/Off Wire down passenger side and the Amp RCAs and speaker wire down Driver side.(or vice-versa) That is the best way to separate them correct?
My brother is coming in town this weekend so I may not get the install done or at least not till Sunday afternoon.

 

That is exactly how I ran my wiring. Speaker/preamp on driver's side, and the power/remote on passenger side.

And no, wire cannot be too big, unless it doesn't fit. Hell, I ran the 1/0 ground all the way back to the battery- it had less resistance than grounding to the chassis, and I had the wire.

I agree, Kicker wire is nice, so is the new Rockford stuff, Knukonceptz, P3, and weldingsupply.com.