akdoggie

Ok. For a while I said I would post up a write up on what is needed to add a Boss or GT steering wheel, from a 2010 and up Mustang to our 2005-09s. The switch out is easy, it's getting the audio controls to work from the steering wheel, since our cars never came with them, as you've already known for some time, it takes some simple wiring and some patience.

To make the switch you will need a few items.

1. 2010 up Mustang steering wheel with both sides having dual rows of switches.

2. 2 each WPT1242 connectors (formally WPT440).

3. Soldering iron, solder, shrink tubing or electrical tape.

4. Patience

5. 30 Torx bit (horn plate removal)

6. Heat gun or good lighter to heat the shrink tubing.

7. 4 each, 2ft. strands of 18 gauge wire to attach from one WPT1242 to ACM

8. 4 wire ends that will go into the J1 plug (female terminals) I personally used some out of another wire plug from a Ford that had the same size wires. I took them out of the other connector and soldered them to the 4 wires that came from the WPT1242.

You can take a Metra 70-5520, and remove the wires with connectors, solder them to the WPT1242, and use that for the ends to go into the J1 Plug.

NOTE: Shaker 500 and Shaker 1000 are not usable without programming for steering wheel controls.

PLEASE NOTE: On page 8 of this thread, is the results for some who were doing this mod. It did work for other people, besides myself also. So as to those who don't think this will work, it does. It isn't as entailed as one may think, it is more logic and following the instructions. This system will work for a Shaker 500 head also, (Job 2 for sure, Job 1 is questionable) but the 1000's have the back amp that may give you some problems. You will need the SW6714 switch for the right side of the steering wheel when using the Shaker heads. You can install everything the same as the navigation head, but check the wiring schematic for the 2nd set of wires where they plug into the harness plugs. Good luck with your mods. 5-12-2014 Bill

Shaker 500 Users: Upon further exploration and after checking the wiring on the Shaker 500 head, we find that the 16, 17, 18 and 19 pin slots are the correct insertion points for the steering wheel audio controls. These go into the ACM J1 connector. This is also the same for the CD6 and THX heads, that use the J1, J3 and J4 connectors. (common). The ones with 4 are the newer style and are not included in this write up. Also remember that the Shaker heads are NOT programmed for audio controls, so you will have to have your head programmed. Most CD6 heads have the controls turned on, so they are a very nice alternative. 3-07-2015

REMEMBER: Do this at your own risk. It may not be applicable to every Ford Mustang, but with the wiring schematics available, and with tried and true testing, this seems to be the best information available at this time. Do any modifications at your own risk. Just a disclaimer so no one can complain if they do something wrong.

I am listing a pdf link that will show you how to add the audio controls, and even add the SYNC unit to the head.

akdoggie

I had to go back and change an item on the wiring to the ACM. When I went and double checked my work, I saw that I showed using the J3 plug on a navigation head. It should of shown that the J1 plug is used for all 4 pins on a navigation head. J1 is used for the #18 & #19 pins and the first pair of wires for either setup. I still question that, but the schematic I have, shows it being that way. Another one a friend sent me last month shows all 4 pins for his year with a Shaker going to the same pins as the navigation head does.

jim010

Thanks akdoggie. I'm interested in this.

I should point out that is someone uses a wheel with the directional buttons used for the cluster with the LCD screen (2013-14) that cruise will not work. The resistances are different and the directional buttons will be useless.

Also, there is a difference in resistance for the phone button on the right side switch if using a wheel from a car equipped with navigation versus on not equipped with navigation but still has sync. Resistances are different.

Just throwing it out there in case someone gets the wrong wheel.

jim010

excellent write up, by the way.

akdoggie

I forgot all about the other switch set on the right. I mentioned the D switch, not being used, but forgot about your situation with the switches. Must be the oldness starting to show up on my part. lol. Hell, I haven't talked with you since after Christmas, so you can see how the mind loses its' retention. Thanks for the props on the write-up.

VGMStudios

Yes, thank you for this write up!
I cant wait to start this, this spring/summer!

akdoggie

As Jim said above, (and I forgot to add it back in afterwards), on the right side of the steering wheel, with NAVIGATION head, you will need to use a different switch. It takes a Motorcraft SW6716 switch. If you use the Shaker head with steering wheel controls, and not a Nav head, then you have to use the SW6714 switch. SW6713 is listed as the other dual row switch for the right side. It supposedly has nothing showing on the lower left corner, where the telephone is on the others. I couldn't find a picture to back up my reference, as I could with the others (SW6714 and SW6716) but Ford lists no other number for the dual row switches, so that is the only possible reference left for it.

The difference in appearance is, the SYNC w/Nav, has only a "phone picture" and nothing else (SW6716). SYNC, without Nav (SW6714), has the "phone picture", but it also has the letters "OK" imprinted, and does not work with the Navigation head. It works only with the Shaker 500 system.

Hope this clears up any misconceptions on the switches. Naturally, the right switch (SW6716) lists as the most expensive of the group. It is about $45 from most sites, including Rock Auto. Good luck.

VGMStudios

Agh are you serious? This mod is becoming very expensive. I bought a wheel but it has the SW6714 switch. Now I have to hunt down the other one...

Is there anything ELSE that I should know?? LOL!

akdoggie

Sorry, I didn't run into the problem myself, but another member did. I didn't even think of it, because it never actually happened to me. The Boss wheel I bought had the Navigation switch already installed, but did come with the left side D switch, so I did have to replace that one. Luckily I had a set of switches from another steering wheel, so I was covered that way.

The SW6716 right switch, is needed to have SYNC & controls, with Navigation head. It can be bought from Amazon for $43. shipped or $42 from RockAuto. (The SW6714 is used for the Shaker radios with strg/wheel audio controls only). As far as anything else, there is nothing more I have run into. You can add a wire to the ACM J1 plug, pin #14, and run it to the Vehicle Speed Sensor plug. That will take care of the DTC, #2473, stating that there is no vehicle speed sensor detected (or something similar). It isn't necessary to add to have the system work well, it will just show in the DTC's at start up screen. I was worried at first, but it is accurate within 20 ft, so it's almost spot on. There is a write up, on adding the VSS wire, on one of the forum sites. It can be found by typing in 'navigation DTC's'.

When you take a bunch of mismatched Ford parts, and then try and arrange them to function perfectly, in a car that never had the system or the wiring, you are going to spend some money making the swap. People buy different steering wheels with different switch combos, so that is one problem all by itself. We can have major problems with Shaker Radio or Navigation heads, when only certain functions are enabled or available. Wiring the ACM J1 and J3 plugs with the correct pins (audio controls on strg wheel), adding the SYNC (fairly simple) system, wiring, controls & module, that's another. When you are done, and if it works, then you will see that it's all been worth it in the end.

Good luck.

amustangrocks

This is great stuff. I bought the gt500 wheel last year, and thread to re stitch it with black for starters. I was gonna be ok with just the cruise control, but this is huge as I have a shaker HU. I`m not into the wiring too much so this will be a real challenge for me, but like you said if I can figure out how to do this, and it will work, worth the time. This will be my main goal for this summer

VGMStudios

Mine too!
Im not blaming you akdoggie or anything like that. Far from it. You have been more than helpful and without your knowledge on this subject I wouldn't have never known what to do. So a big thanks goes to you.
I was just a little frustrated and you are right. Once I get this working ill see it will be all worth it!

akdoggie

I'm attaching another pdf, which shows the different switches and what they operate. It shows the different pictures to the part numbers. This should help anyone who isn't sure if they have the correct switches, so that they operate like they are suppose to. Hope this clears up any questions.

data174

akdoggie,

I ordered the steering wheel and wire assembly for my 2009 GT/CS with the oem navigation. Should arrive in a week or so. Any suggestions ?.

Thanks Al

VGMStudios

Thank you sir!
That should help those who are starting out!

akdoggie

Data174, that is Great. I really like the feel of the Boss wheel or the GT wheel. They look really good in our Mustangs. Just make sure it doesn't have a D pad on the left or the the "ok" button on the right and you are Golden, except for switching the 10 pin connector for the 5 pin for your Mustang's clockspring.

Read the last pdf (above), to make sure you have the correct set up when it gets here, just to play it safe.

Good luck on your project also.

data174

akdoggie, I can only go by the photo on the page. The part number is CR3Z-3600-AB.
I also spoke with Brad at 4Dtech.com about programing my navigation radio to turn on swc1 and wsc2. He also told me that on the nav radio pins 16,17,18 and 19 are used to give you full controll of sync. That way you will not need the external pad.

Al

akdoggie

data;;;;you would still need the SYNC mirror then, if you didn't have the external microphone and pad (like in the SYNC kit, 9R3Z-14D212-A).

I wrote that there are some discrepancies within the Ford radios. I have a listing of 3 heads that take the 16-19 pins, and two others that show using the 4-5, 18-19 pins for the audio controls to work. It really depends on the head you are using.

I used a 8G1T-EA radio and it came with ALL options turned on.

data174

akdoggie,
I spoke with Brad at 4dtec and he is going to program my Nav unit to the sync kit.
Brad said that some inputs and outputs of the radio have to be programed. Should be ready to install when the radio arrives.
All I have to do is wire the steering wheel.
Were did you splice the wpt plug to the audio connector. I could not located it in your pictures.
My nav radio is part number is 8r3t-18k931-FA.

Thanks, Al

akdoggie

Data---I didn't splice it in. They plug into the open slots in the J1 and J3 ACM plugs. That is why i showed the ends and said to check them on your radio before plugging them all the way in. Once they lock in, then you have to cut the terminal off, pull out the connector pin and start over. You will have nothing in those holes, if you do, then PM me please. You should have nothing in them, your car being a Mustang, made before the 2010 models.

akdoggie

I see you got a radio shows coming out of an 08 Mustang. Funny, I show that radio has Sirius available, and should be SYNC compatible with that Job 2 head. I doubt that it would have to be programmed at all to fit your car. I think I would of tried it before sending it out for programming. Your radio, does it have the chrome ***** for volume and on/off, right?

Anyway you look at it, you will be happy shortly and have something a lot of the Mustang's don't have.