I have a Kicker KX2 crossover (with high-level inputs), and I was told by one of their support techs that it is safe to tap from the rear speaker leads of the Shaker 500 into the KX2's high-level in.

BUT, he said that while the 8" door subwoofers are powered by separate amplifiers in the driver's side kick panel, the remaining front and rear speakers are powered by the head unit and use a 150Hz high-pass crossover. There is no full-range signal available in the vehicle with the Shaker 500.

I am thinking if that is true the only real option is to tap the inputs to the stock amps that are powering the 8" door subs. There is a device available from Soundgate: http://www.soundgate.com/index.php?request...2&productid=431

It is the LOCB.2 designed to do just that but it's a little too $$$ (like 93 bux). I'm wondering if anyone can verify this 150Hz high pass story? Also, has anyone tried the LOCB.2? Thx

 

If that is true, then tap the inputs to the Shaker amps. They're in the driver's side kickpanel area. Should be very easy to do. I have also heard that the other speakers are high-passed, but those drivers in the back produce a LOT lower than 150.

 

Originally I also thought the rear speakers were producing lower frequencies. But I realized that the 8" subs in the doors were still playing even when fading completely to the rear speakers.

I think I'll pursue tapping the amp inputs. I will e-mail the SoundGate guys to make sure this will fly.

 

Cool. Maybe SG will make an adapter harness specifically for this purpose. If I had time, I'd look into the actual Molex plugs myself and make a few.

 

I got a reply back from Soundgate:

"The LOCB.2 should work just fine in your '06 Mustang as long as you are adding a subwoofer amp. THe LOC.B will convert the signal from the factory radio to RCA level signal then boost the voltage to give you a better signal-to-noise ratio. You can just use t-tap connectors on the factory harness, no need to cut the factory wires."

Kind of a vague reply. I guess I could assume from his response that the low-level signal to the amps that power the 8" subs is using a low-pass filter.

Next step: Figure out if setting this up will void all or part of the vehicle's warranty. Any one have any info on this?

 

It could only void any part it is attached to, and then only if Ford can prove that your part caused the failure of their part.

The pre-amp signals going to the amps ARE low-passed. I would actually suggest getting the signal in the driver's footwell by the amps. There's lots of space to put the adapter there. I don't care for the tap connectors, but there is no other way if they aren't going to make a harness. I need to go get some Molex connector info to see if I can make some T-lines myself. If I can rig it up, I'll make a thread with lots of nice pictures and a how-to.

 

What about a remote lead to switch the amp on?

 

Isn't there a remote lead on the factory amps? I know it is lower voltage (8v I think), but that could easily be used to trip a relay to make a 12v turn-on lead.

 

I don't know enough about the Mustang wiring to risk tapping into anything existing. You just never know what's hooked into some sophisticated computer stuff. I will likely be taking the safe route, running a small-gauge wire directly from the battery (side-by-side with the amp power lead) to a switch in the lower center console, then back to the trunk. Got to be sure to fuse it near the battery, too.

I'm going to explore the empty button panels below the radio at the bottom of the center console face (on mine, two of them out of five are blank). These are recirc, blank, A/C, blank, defrost if I recall.

One could probably implement a simple toggle switch in a blank panel to turn the amplifier on/off. I did something similar in my last vehicle and it worked perfectly. The trick is finding a switch that not only fits there but looks ok too.

 

Definitely use a relay so you don't forget to turn off your amps and drain your battery. Just tap into any 12v lead that comes on with the car.

 

I think his whole problem is he doesn't WANT to tap into the existing wiring...

Frankly, if you want to work on your pony's wiring, get one of the Ford Service DVDs available on eBay. They have ALL the wiring diagrams. If you know how to read a circuit schematic, it will tell you everything you need to know about how and what to tap into on your Mustang, including where the connectors are, what they look like and what the wiring color coding is for the wire you are interested in in addition to other information you need.

It is WELL worth the money spent.

 

Well, you can get a fuse tap, or use any of the empty fuse spaces in the box to get the 12v source from, and I don't consider that really touching the factory stuff, but he might.

 

Hi all, popping back in for a moment!

I used a fuse tap to great effect, though it introduced alternator whine before I used my crossover -- shouldn't be a problem with a sub amp.

I second the assertion that the rear speakers go way below 150hz, but be aware that A) the inputs to the front amps are line-level and B) I think the signal there is crossed over at the head unit, but somewhere around 500hz.

 

Just an update, I've ordered a Rockford Fosgate Punch 6001bd, RF 4 gauge amp install kit, Streetwires interconnect RCA cable, and the Soundgate LOCB.2 for the project. Already have a RF 1.0 farad cap.

My first round of enclosure measurements and calcs show that I have about 6 ft3 to mess with without interfering with the spare tire accessibility. Still deciding the count and size of subs to use. So far I'm leaning toward either a single 18" or 2 10" plus a single 15".

 

Well, don't mix your sizes- it will cause all kinds of sound complications. In that space, if you want to use it all, I'd go with a pair of good 15's, and you still have enough space for ported. Maybe something along th elines of an IDMax, Dayton Titanic, SI Magnum, etc. Or, if you really want an 18, check out the Elemental Designs 19Ov2. May I ask WHY you seem to want that much subwoofer in that car? Besides, the 6001bd won't power ANY of the setups mentioned here adequately. With that power, my choice would be ONE of the mentioned 15's in a roughly 3 cube box tuned to 30-35hz. I think that would sound excellent and still have enough pressure to cause nausea and severe hearing loss. :thumbup:

 

I'm trying to use speakers I already have (from previous installations). I have a collection of Rockford Fosgate woofers: 2 x 8", 2 x 10", 1 x 15", 1 x 18". The 18" is a RF XLC, twas special order quite a few years ago and they don't make them anymore as far as I know. It needs 4 cubic feet, I already have a rough idea of the box design.

For now my main concern is which wires going into the amp I need to tap... know where I can get this info?

 

Which 8's are those RF's?

www.the12volt.com

 

They are brand new unused 8 ohm SVC Punch Stage 1's, model P18S8. Just picked them up a couple months ago, intended for another vehicle but that project was aborted.