What do you guys think of this for the trunk?

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...8BASSLT-f.jpeg

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-u0DVVQf...00&I=108BASSLT

 

ya i know what you mean about the jensen and wal-mart label so to speak, but they are really stepping up there game here lately and trying to offer more features and better quality then the big name guys to lure away there costomers, im sure once they do that they will do like everyone else and eventually start charging for the name and not the quality, but as of right now from what i can see they are offering the most quality and features for less then anyone else, but who knows what they willd o once they get the repect from the audio world, like i said they may start charging more for the same thing in the near future

 

I don't know why Jensen got such a bad rap in the first place. Their stuff has ALWAYS been reliable, and it has alway met specs. They just didn't have any truly high-end stuff, I guess. Even those ugly-*** little amps always met their power ratings- RMS, not the "if lightning strikes" rating embalzoned on the heatsink.

 

That looks pretty good! I was thinking of getting the original bass link, but it would not fit in my ranger, so I bought the 12" and made it fit, lol. I bet with the two passive radiators it sounds pretty good. I always wanted to build a sub with two passive radiators, maybe I will try something like that when I build my new box. I think you can get 10" radiators for pretty cheap from parts express. It seems to me that you would want the speaker facing differently from the radiators, but idk for sure, seem like there would be some sound cancellation. I say get it, not really a bad deal, considering I got about $500 in speaker, amp and enclosure.

Would you put it just behind the seat, or at the back of the trunk?

 

I think the over rated output is why they got a bad name. I remember I was around 16 and didn't know much about equipment, and I bought one of those jensen amps, It said something like 300w In huge letters and like 18w rms in the fine print somewhere on the last page of the owners manual. Of course I was young so all I looked at was the HUGE 300w of pure power, lol.
I beleive this is why they got a bad name.

 

well If I got it Id probably leave enough wire so I could try both to see what sounds better. Wont be getting it anytime soon. The only way id be able to afford it is If i get on with OFD I test for them in october, wish me luck.

If I get on with them there will be many more mods comming as will be making twice as much then in my current job.

 

Just a hint, make sure that passive radiators are alays positioned 90* to the ground. Do not up/down fire them. Since they have no motor structure to re-center them, they rely on a suspension to do it. Gravity has a continuous effect on this soft/compliant piece. IDK how long it wouyld take for the radiators to be shot- I guess it waould depend on the material.

 

I did a little research on the radiators. It doesn't seem to be as easy as just building a box and sticking a couple in there. You have to weight them just right in order to get them to sound right, or else they will cancell out the sound of the sub. It does also say that a properly tuned enclosure will be able to hit lower than the speaker could have alone. I don't know If I want to get into all that, I need to research it some more, see if I can dig up some more details.

And good luck with the job firefighter

 

It is the same as a port-tuned enclosure. But, in a small box, it's easier in most cases to fit a weighted PR than an extremely long port.