Impedence and wattage of shaker speakers
Hi guys, I just found tihs forum and am very happy to see that many of you have disected your audio systems. I am interested in keeping most of the shaker junk for now but replacing the speakers themselves to improve the sound quality a tad.
That being said, I'd like to find the impedence and wattage specs on what's stock so I don't blow up new speakers.
I saw in some photo that the subs in the front door look like 60W 1.2Ohm x 2 -- pretty lame, as expected. What are the rest of these things?
If one of you that has all this stuff on a shelf (someone must
) would do an inventory and tell us:
location -- size -- wattage -- ohms -- notes
samplesub -- 8" -- 60 W -- 1.2ohm -- dual voice coil both feeds present in stock location
I think this info could be VERY useful to many of us shadetree installers!!
Many thanks in advance!
Peet
That being said, I'd like to find the impedence and wattage specs on what's stock so I don't blow up new speakers.
I saw in some photo that the subs in the front door look like 60W 1.2Ohm x 2 -- pretty lame, as expected. What are the rest of these things?
If one of you that has all this stuff on a shelf (someone must
) would do an inventory and tell us:location -- size -- wattage -- ohms -- notes
samplesub -- 8" -- 60 W -- 1.2ohm -- dual voice coil both feeds present in stock location
I think this info could be VERY useful to many of us shadetree installers!!
Many thanks in advance!
Peet
Originally posted by RRRoamer@February 11, 2005, 10:18 AM
good luck! I asked a similar question last month and got zero replies. I too need this info to properly plan my install.
good luck! I asked a similar question last month and got zero replies. I too need this info to properly plan my install.
I'm with you peet! I made this request a couple of different times and always got squat for a reply.
I need to order the manuals here before too long. I still can't decide if I want everything on a CD (and then print out stuff as I need it) or get a hard copy so I'll have everything IF I need it when I'm away from the printer. I originally planned on ordering it and then printing the whole thing out. Until I realized it would cost almost as much to print it than if I just bought the hard copy!
I need to order the manuals here before too long. I still can't decide if I want everything on a CD (and then print out stuff as I need it) or get a hard copy so I'll have everything IF I need it when I'm away from the printer. I originally planned on ordering it and then printing the whole thing out. Until I realized it would cost almost as much to print it than if I just bought the hard copy!
I took a peek at the rear deck 5x7's on my Shaker 1000 and they are 4 ohm. I'm thinking about swapping them out for a set of JL Audio XR570's that I have laying around.
I'm hesistant though because I dropped a set off these into the rear doors in my 2004 F-150 and they don't sound any better than the cheesy ones they replaced. My F-150 has the upgraded "Audiophile" system, but doesn't make any claims on wattage. I don't think it's even capable of waking these JL's up.
The Shaker 1000 system in my GT is louder and obviously has more power, but 1000 watts? I don't think so. I guess I'll invest an hour or so to see if they are an improvement.
I'm hesistant though because I dropped a set off these into the rear doors in my 2004 F-150 and they don't sound any better than the cheesy ones they replaced. My F-150 has the upgraded "Audiophile" system, but doesn't make any claims on wattage. I don't think it's even capable of waking these JL's up.
The Shaker 1000 system in my GT is louder and obviously has more power, but 1000 watts? I don't think so. I guess I'll invest an hour or so to see if they are an improvement.
Clem,
It's call "Peak" power. Vs. "RMS" (Root Mean Square which comes from the equation used to calculate the power dissipated from a sin wave of X voltage pushing Y current through a load). Peak is usually at LEAST twice as high as RMS, it is almost ALWAYS bull.
I have heard somewhere at the stock amps are in the 200-250w RMS range each (aka: 200-250 for the Shaker 500 and 400-500 for the shaker 1000). That is actually a decent amount of power for a factory amp. It just stinks they can't label the think like the aftermarket does (well, the quality aftermarket anyway!) and use continous duty RMS power ratings instead of this peak crap. It's like of like how Sears labels their air compressors. I'm sure you have seen the nice 6.5 hp 110 volt air compressors there? Problem is, you can only get about 2.2 hp (assuming a 100% efficent motor!) off of a standard 110V, 15amp outlet! So where did this 6.5 number come from???
It's call "Peak" power. Vs. "RMS" (Root Mean Square which comes from the equation used to calculate the power dissipated from a sin wave of X voltage pushing Y current through a load). Peak is usually at LEAST twice as high as RMS, it is almost ALWAYS bull.
I have heard somewhere at the stock amps are in the 200-250w RMS range each (aka: 200-250 for the Shaker 500 and 400-500 for the shaker 1000). That is actually a decent amount of power for a factory amp. It just stinks they can't label the think like the aftermarket does (well, the quality aftermarket anyway!) and use continous duty RMS power ratings instead of this peak crap. It's like of like how Sears labels their air compressors. I'm sure you have seen the nice 6.5 hp 110 volt air compressors there? Problem is, you can only get about 2.2 hp (assuming a 100% efficent motor!) off of a standard 110V, 15amp outlet! So where did this 6.5 number come from???
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