Factory Speaker replacement....Easy?
3/8/05, 08:34 PM
#1
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: October 20, 2004
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How hard or easy is it to replace the factory speaker on the V6 Base system? I want to put in some new 6X8's and I will do the job myself if it's not a bear!! Any advice would be helpful.
3/9/05, 02:38 AM
#2
Piece of cake - just follow the attached instructions. Took me about 2 hours total to replace door and rear deck speakers. I have the Shaker 1000 system.
Note: be very careful not to damage the rear window defroster grid or scratch window tinting (as my loving wife reminded me several times during the rear speaker replacement). Clearance is minimal at best due to slope of rear window. I went with Alpine SPR-57LPs. They are slightly taller than original speakers but was still able to top load in the rear deck. Made an enormous difference. Factory speakers were top of the line for those "Made in China".
Note: be very careful not to damage the rear window defroster grid or scratch window tinting (as my loving wife reminded me several times during the rear speaker replacement). Clearance is minimal at best due to slope of rear window. I went with Alpine SPR-57LPs. They are slightly taller than original speakers but was still able to top load in the rear deck. Made an enormous difference. Factory speakers were top of the line for those "Made in China".
3/9/05, 06:44 AM
#3
V6 Member
Join Date: January 28, 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by slowjoe24@March 8, 2005, 10:37 PM
How hard or easy is it to replace the factory speaker on the V6 Base system? I want to put in some new 6X8's and I will do the job myself if it's not a bear!! Any advice would be helpful.
How hard or easy is it to replace the factory speaker on the V6 Base system? I want to put in some new 6X8's and I will do the job myself if it's not a bear!! Any advice would be helpful.
3/9/05, 11:08 AM
#5
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 22, 2004
Location: Niantic CT
Posts: 819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by tmcolegr@March 9, 2005, 4:41 AM
Piece of cake - just follow the attached instructions. Took me about 2 hours total to replace door and rear deck speakers. I have the Shaker 1000 system.
Note: be very careful not to damage the rear window defroster grid or scratch window tinting (as my loving wife reminded me several times during the rear speaker replacement). Clearance is minimal at best due to slope of rear window. I went with Alpine SPR-57LPs. They are slightly taller than original speakers but was still able to top load in the rear deck. Made an enormous difference. Factory speakers were top of the line for those "Made in China".
Piece of cake - just follow the attached instructions. Took me about 2 hours total to replace door and rear deck speakers. I have the Shaker 1000 system.
Note: be very careful not to damage the rear window defroster grid or scratch window tinting (as my loving wife reminded me several times during the rear speaker replacement). Clearance is minimal at best due to slope of rear window. I went with Alpine SPR-57LPs. They are slightly taller than original speakers but was still able to top load in the rear deck. Made an enormous difference. Factory speakers were top of the line for those "Made in China".
1) were the speakers you replaced all 4-ohm?
2) did you put the same Alpines in the doors?
3) why didn't you replace the door subs as well while the door panel was off?
3/9/05, 03:21 PM
#6
ti_27: Yes the Alpine SPR-57LPs are 5X7s. 5X7s & 6X8s will fit in the rear deck or doors but not 6X9s.
wjones14:
1) Yes rear deck & door speakers were 4 ohm.
2) Put SPR-57LPs in rear deck and doors - existing door speakers are component 4" midrange with 1" tweeter. Much better quality than factory rear deck speakers but upgraded to the Alpine SPR-57LPs.
3) Didn't replace the subs in doors as no one I know of makes a direct replacement at this time.
wjones14:
1) Yes rear deck & door speakers were 4 ohm.
2) Put SPR-57LPs in rear deck and doors - existing door speakers are component 4" midrange with 1" tweeter. Much better quality than factory rear deck speakers but upgraded to the Alpine SPR-57LPs.
3) Didn't replace the subs in doors as no one I know of makes a direct replacement at this time.
3/9/05, 04:41 PM
#7
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 22, 2004
Location: Niantic CT
Posts: 819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Todd,thanks for the info!
You know what's weird? Crutchfield says the Alpine SPR-57LP doesn't fit. B)
Were there any issues?
One question about the factory subs in the doors - are they paper cones or poly?
You know what's weird? Crutchfield says the Alpine SPR-57LP doesn't fit. B)
Were there any issues?
One question about the factory subs in the doors - are they paper cones or poly?
3/9/05, 05:37 PM
#8
Yes I know lot's of different Web sites that say the 5X7s won't fit - but they are wrong!! Just like the rear speakers only produce bass according to Crutchfield. The only issue I had with the door speakers was the 2 unused mounting tabs on the ends of the oval had to be trimmed off to allow the speaker to fit in the plastic housing the speaker mounts in. The plastic housing has a lip on one end that will not permit the speaker to sit flat unless the tabs are removed. Other than that they fit perfectly. Just purchase the speaker harnesses to allow the factory harnesses to be plugged in and you don't even have to splice any wires.
Concerning the factory subs: I didn't even look at the subwoofer cones. Currently I don't know of a manufacturer that makes a direct replacement without some major subwoofer enclosure (door panel) modifications. The factory subwoofer has screws from the front that mount the speaker to the door panel and one additional screw that comes in from behind the door panel to support the back of the subwoofer. That means to replace the subwoofer you have to remove the door panel to remove the one screw on the back side of the door panel.
I posted another thread concerning the door and trunk subwoofers. I asked if anyone knew of a manufacturer that made a direct replacement or had already replaced their subs without major modifications but got no replies. Guess no one has yet.
Concerning the factory subs: I didn't even look at the subwoofer cones. Currently I don't know of a manufacturer that makes a direct replacement without some major subwoofer enclosure (door panel) modifications. The factory subwoofer has screws from the front that mount the speaker to the door panel and one additional screw that comes in from behind the door panel to support the back of the subwoofer. That means to replace the subwoofer you have to remove the door panel to remove the one screw on the back side of the door panel.
I posted another thread concerning the door and trunk subwoofers. I asked if anyone knew of a manufacturer that made a direct replacement or had already replaced their subs without major modifications but got no replies. Guess no one has yet.
3/9/05, 06:54 PM
#9
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 22, 2004
Location: Niantic CT
Posts: 819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by tmcolegr@March 9, 2005, 7:40 PM
Yes I know lot's of different Web sites that say the 5X7s won't fit - but they are wrong!! Just like the rear speakers only produce bass according to Crutchfield. The only issue I had with the door speakers was the 2 unused mounting tabs on the ends of the oval had to be trimmed off to allow the speaker to fit in the plastic housing the speaker mounts in. The plastic housing has a lip on one end that will not permit the speaker to sit flat unless the tabs are removed. Other than that they fit perfectly. Just purchase the speaker harnesses to allow the factory harnesses to be plugged in and you don't even have to splice any wires.
Yes I know lot's of different Web sites that say the 5X7s won't fit - but they are wrong!! Just like the rear speakers only produce bass according to Crutchfield. The only issue I had with the door speakers was the 2 unused mounting tabs on the ends of the oval had to be trimmed off to allow the speaker to fit in the plastic housing the speaker mounts in. The plastic housing has a lip on one end that will not permit the speaker to sit flat unless the tabs are removed. Other than that they fit perfectly. Just purchase the speaker harnesses to allow the factory harnesses to be plugged in and you don't even have to splice any wires.
3/9/05, 11:03 PM
#11
Cobra Member
Join Date: February 10, 2005
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a set of 6x8 panasonics for the rear and a set of 5.25 for the door, also have a Shaker 1000 to replace my non-Shaker unit sitting in my house waiting to be installed. I have been trying to talk myself into trying the install myself. I called a shop and they quoted me around 295 for the install, that also includes the install of an amp that a have but they havent worked on an 05 Mustang yet!
I am a little hesistant to try it myself but I am not in the mood to shell out 300 hundred bucks either UGH!
I am a little hesistant to try it myself but I am not in the mood to shell out 300 hundred bucks either UGH!
3/15/05, 06:33 PM
#13
V6 Member
Join Date: December 6, 2004
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put Polk 5 x 7 in the rear deck, (not sure of the model #, 180W I think. Was a tight fit with that window. The first ones I picked would not fit (an Alpine model). Too tall. The sales guy was no help on which would fit, except to say here are the 5 x 7s, some 6 x 8s. Sounds much better than before (little 25 watt speakers), I do not know much about Polk though.
3/19/05, 12:52 PM
#14
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: October 20, 2004
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The factory base system does have 160W of power right??? If so, that would be the same as 40W per speaker. Should sound great to just replace the weak factory speakers but use the factory single CD unit!!!
Anybody done this?
Anybody done this?
3/21/05, 04:22 PM
#17
Cobra Member
Join Date: November 27, 2004
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
You will never actually get head unit that puts out more than around 20 to 22W per channel. Why? V^2/R.
Ok. the most voltage head units can put out (and this is PEAK voltage!) is around 12V give or take a bit (running car is at higher voltage but there are also losses in the system). Most factory speakers are in the 4 ohm range. Power is that old stand by of V^2/R, so 12*12/4 = 36W PEAK. The RMS power on that is around 25W RMS max.
The problem is that head units are not big enough to include the power supply components (like external amps have) to step the voltage up above the 12V incoming, so they are pretty much limited on how much power they can push. Of course, if you can drive a lowre impendance load (2 ohm for example), you can get more power with the same input voltage. Of course, it takes twice as many transistors/FETs to carry the doubled current and (more importantely) twice as many heat sinks and twice as much air flow through the unit. So they are limited to how much power they can deliver for a LOT of different reasons.
The very short summary is that if you want more power and real dynamic headroom, you pretty much have to use an external amp because you are not going to get it out of a head unit.
Ok. the most voltage head units can put out (and this is PEAK voltage!) is around 12V give or take a bit (running car is at higher voltage but there are also losses in the system). Most factory speakers are in the 4 ohm range. Power is that old stand by of V^2/R, so 12*12/4 = 36W PEAK. The RMS power on that is around 25W RMS max.
The problem is that head units are not big enough to include the power supply components (like external amps have) to step the voltage up above the 12V incoming, so they are pretty much limited on how much power they can push. Of course, if you can drive a lowre impendance load (2 ohm for example), you can get more power with the same input voltage. Of course, it takes twice as many transistors/FETs to carry the doubled current and (more importantely) twice as many heat sinks and twice as much air flow through the unit. So they are limited to how much power they can deliver for a LOT of different reasons.
The very short summary is that if you want more power and real dynamic headroom, you pretty much have to use an external amp because you are not going to get it out of a head unit.
4/19/05, 03:54 PM
#19
Bullitt Member
Join Date: April 19, 2005
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by wjones14@March 9, 2005, 7:44 PM
Todd,thanks for the info!
You know what's weird? Crutchfield says the Alpine SPR-57LP doesn't fit. B)
Were there any issues?
One question about the factory subs in the doors - are they paper cones or poly?
Todd,thanks for the info!
You know what's weird? Crutchfield says the Alpine SPR-57LP doesn't fit. B)
Were there any issues?
One question about the factory subs in the doors - are they paper cones or poly?
4/19/05, 06:16 PM
#20
Cobra Member
Join Date: November 27, 2004
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
tmcolegr,
Don't hold your breath for drop in replacements. There simply isn't any room in the back of the enclosure (towards the top of the enclosure) for a motor much larger than the factory job. And without a larger motor, none of the factory speakers will sound any better than the stock ones.
You really should give the upgraded door subs a try. I have a thread with pics were I installed JL Audio 8W3V2D2 (dual voice coil, 2 ohms per coil. These are what you have to have to use the factory amp!) subs in the doors on my car. It did require some surgury to the factory door panel enclosure (only stuff inside the door) and a bit of fiberglass work to seal it all up (very simple and it is a great learners project), but the result was fantastic, even using the amps.
Redzz2005GT,
For the record, Polk Audio makes VERY good speakers. There db line is pretty good and there MOMO line is VERY nice. Frankly, I'm not all that impressed with the styling, but I don't use the grills so it is a non issue for me.
Don't hold your breath for drop in replacements. There simply isn't any room in the back of the enclosure (towards the top of the enclosure) for a motor much larger than the factory job. And without a larger motor, none of the factory speakers will sound any better than the stock ones.
You really should give the upgraded door subs a try. I have a thread with pics were I installed JL Audio 8W3V2D2 (dual voice coil, 2 ohms per coil. These are what you have to have to use the factory amp!) subs in the doors on my car. It did require some surgury to the factory door panel enclosure (only stuff inside the door) and a bit of fiberglass work to seal it all up (very simple and it is a great learners project), but the result was fantastic, even using the amps.
Redzz2005GT,
For the record, Polk Audio makes VERY good speakers. There db line is pretty good and there MOMO line is VERY nice. Frankly, I'm not all that impressed with the styling, but I don't use the grills so it is a non issue for me.