Infinity

JL's DO sound good, if a bit overpriced. The factory drivers are dual 2ohm nominal, with each coil receiving its own channel from a stereo amp. A dual 2 driver would allow one to use the factory amps, and then later upgrade to a high quality amp and re-wire the woofer for a single 4 ohm load (or even a 1 ohm for you guys with old-school cheater amps or DLS or USAmps). It's just a versatility thing in my eyes.


BTW, I haven't been in contact with John Janowicz as of yet. I'll e-mail him now.

Infinity

I'm actually in contact with Ben at eD about making the 9kv2's with a neo motor structure to allow direct drop in. Those woofers would work incredibly well in the doors, and I'm pretty much an Elemental fanboy (I have 6 woofers and 2 of their amps in use right now, plus 2 flat-cone 10's right beside me )

BatNastard

NolaGT -- Want some nice 8 ohm Seas drivers for IB? LOL!
Actually, I'm having fun with Sonotube transmission lines at home.

That 7" looks like a hot ticket as well...although they claim it can do pretty much anything. Still, might work well as subs for now, midbasses for later if I put a sub in the trunk.

Inf, I emailed Dan at Lorentz expressing my interest...we'll see...

NOLAGT

I had a flat cone 12A untill it came appart. **** sweet looking driver for sure. I am wanting to setup some sound in my gt now. I have my 12xxx that I replaced my 12a with. Are you useing the 10a's you have?

I like the Ed stuff but I might do a jl setup with the new v3's...they look pretty darn good and I had some 10w3's a long time ago that bumped pretty good.

Infinity

If I could get a Shaker 1000 takeout enclosure from someone, I'd use my K's for sure. I still have 2 of the first 5 12w3's produced for market (doesn't count the prototypes). I won't sell them for anything. I love those drivers. I do like the new ones, though.

RRRoamer

The stock speaker IS a dual voice coil speaker. So the dual VC 2 ohm speakers just drop right in from an electrical persective. The output from the amps isn't common ground either, so you won't have those issues to deal with.

Of course, just about any speaker that will actually be a sound improvement WILL be a BITA to install because you will have to modify the enclosure to fit the (much) larger motor on a good speaker. I've yet to see anything that would actually be a drop in that I would bother to install. The motor has to be so small you really won't gain much.

My JLs have been installed for over a year now (fiberglass method to expand the enclosure. Search for a thread about 8W3V2s started by me) and they are still going very, very strongly. And I still haven't gotten around to replacing the factory sub amps... Sigh.

Al Blue4.6l

how are your doors holding up to the vibration?

ive got my JLs in the doors (what a pain in the *** with the heat gun method, I should have learned to glass) and most of the doors sound deadened.

going to wrestle with wiring and getting the doors back on tomorrow...not looking forward to getting the door handle cable back in its home....

Sonic Thunder

Hey Al Blue4.6l, you going to use the stock wiring for your JL's. I did tapping in at the stock amp and only took 10 minutes and a multimeter.

NOLAGT

Thats what I was wondering....how do the doors take the vibration with the 8's directly attached to them? I read something that these doors were made to be able to house an 8 and not vibrate to deth. But a bigger 8 might change that.

This is why I got the base system...if I use a sub that needs a "box" then I will make one out of fiberglass from the get go.

NOLAGT

Dont know much about this brand because its new but they have a 6.5" sub that might fit as well. The magnet is big but I dont know if its as big as an 8". I believe there are once called adire extreemies or something like that....for the ones who know who adire is.

At any rate look http://www.mpyreaudio.com/65x0.htm

Infinity

The Mpyre's are too deep at the magnet, so heat forming would still be needed. It would be easier to get the Tang Bands to go, either needing a spacer, or making a small hole in the rear of the enclosure.

Al Blue4.6l

no, im powering them and my new 5x7s/tweeters with an aftermarket amp, so i've got to run new wires.

Infinity

You can tap the stock wiring, then you don't have to circumvent that door plug. Tap the subs at the amps in the footwell, and all others right behind the radio. I'm hoping to find the Molex or Tyco-made plugs to make harnesses to do just this, but they're VERY tough to find the correct ones.

NOLAGT

Ehh o well I tried hahaha. I didnt know if it would still be too big being that its a 6.5".

Al Blue4.6l

yeah now that i see that the sub apparently had 4 wires going through the door, i guess there would have been enough...

oh well, did my drivers door..once you figure it out it really isnt completely awful to do.

thank god the door handle cable is a heck of a lot easier to put back in than it is to take out.

RRRoamer

My doors are holding up great. No rattles or other noise going on.

When I installed my subs, I simply unsoldered the wiring pigtail from the factory speaker and then soldered it to my 8W3V2's terminal. Once they were installed, all i had to do was connect the pig tail to the harness just like the factory speaker. I never had to do ANYTHING to get extra wires to the door or mess with the factory amp. Just the pigtail on the factory speaker.