Rear Emblem Replacement
What he said
Thanks!!
We've got them in 4 different finishes and two different styles right now, installation takes about 5 minutes unless you screw up your OEM tape, in which case it then takes a bit longer to R&R the tape with the new one.
Thanks!!We've got them in 4 different finishes and two different styles right now, installation takes about 5 minutes unless you screw up your OEM tape, in which case it then takes a bit longer to R&R the tape with the new one.
No Shiny black - black anodize is flat in appearance. Other finishes are brushed, polished, and chrome plated.
No black chrome available - we have enough trouble getting quality regular chrome work done reasonably.
I can have a brushed piece custom painted for you for about 65.00 in factory black.
No black chrome available - we have enough trouble getting quality regular chrome work done reasonably.
I can have a brushed piece custom painted for you for about 65.00 in factory black.
On the flip side, we will be offering a "plain jane" piece that will be adaptable to a variety of existing OEM emblems available through our website.
Will the "plane jane" be styled as the one I mentioned (black anodized)? Also, if I were to purchase the "plane jane" will it be able to handle an etching of my own choice? Additionally, how deep can I go with the etching? And what will show up when etched, bare aluminum?
What is the cost of the "plane jane" and when will it be available?
Any sugestions how I can get what I'm looking for (at a reasonlbe price)?
Thanks!
Sorry to jack you thread, SurnSoCal (I see you're just down the road from me)
I see.
Will the "plane jane" be styled as the one I mentioned (black anodized)? Also, if I were to purchase the "plane jane" will it be able to handle an etching of my own choice? Additionally, how deep can I go with the etching? And what will show up when etched, bare aluminum?
What is the cost of the "plane jane" and when will it be available?
Any sugestions how I can get what I'm looking for (at a reasonlbe price)?
Will the "plane jane" be styled as the one I mentioned (black anodized)? Also, if I were to purchase the "plane jane" will it be able to handle an etching of my own choice? Additionally, how deep can I go with the etching? And what will show up when etched, bare aluminum?
What is the cost of the "plane jane" and when will it be available?
Any sugestions how I can get what I'm looking for (at a reasonlbe price)?
Yes it could handle any etching you would want to throw at it - I actually toyed with the idea of 3D EDM relief work for some really cool custom stuff, but it drives the price through the roof... You could go .125" deep no problem, probably even as deep as .200" if you wanted to.
Cost is the same as the others, we try not to charge different prices for minimal differences in parts (Classic and GT are the same, just like our fuel doors). Availability - hmmm... I guess we should get those sent off to anodize and plating... just too many coals on the fire.
As to how to do it affordably - well, if you had a 30k CNC machine laying around... and a good CAD program that could import from a TIFF or Bitmap...
But in reality, custom work takes custom money... I'd love to offer it to you, but we just can't go down that road right now.
Thanks for the replies! Definitely can't afford a full custom piece. But, I think getting the "plane jane' etched is my best option. Then, it'll be semi-custom. Please let me/us know when the "plane jane" becomes available.
Marcello - Is there such a thing as "white anodized"? I would love to get one of these or especially your fuel door. My color scheme is Black & White, so a chrome fuel door or polished one is out of the question. And, a black anodized fuel door would stick out like a big black dot on the side of the white car.
But if "white anodizing" was available, it would look great! I could get rid of the boring fuel door and have the fancy one (and I wouldn't mind the polished or SS cap bolt heads).
But if "white anodizing" was available, it would look great! I could get rid of the boring fuel door and have the fancy one (and I wouldn't mind the polished or SS cap bolt heads).
White anodize really isn't an option, the two that come to mind would be powdercoating or painting, and honestly, I'd go the paint route, as powdercoat takes a lot of space dimensionally when you're talking about the hinges and gaps between the door and ring, etc...
On the paint, same deal as the rear medallion - factory color matching is 65.00, time is normally 3 weeks from date of order to delivery, Hireman is doing the work (so it will be right). The screws on the exterior are removed and not painted, because if you paint them, they will normally chip. That, and they are stainless steel, so they will look good down the road, not just the day they are installed.
If you want to paint the part to match, I always recommend going with the brushed finish as your starting point. It's the cheapest finish we offer, and is the easist to prep for paint work.
On the paint, same deal as the rear medallion - factory color matching is 65.00, time is normally 3 weeks from date of order to delivery, Hireman is doing the work (so it will be right). The screws on the exterior are removed and not painted, because if you paint them, they will normally chip. That, and they are stainless steel, so they will look good down the road, not just the day they are installed.
If you want to paint the part to match, I always recommend going with the brushed finish as your starting point. It's the cheapest finish we offer, and is the easist to prep for paint work.
Marcello- Is the overall diameter of your medallion equal, smaller, or larger than the OEM GT emblem?
I need to know because I have vinyl stripes that go right up to the edge of the emblem (no gap) and if your medallion is smaller, it's a 'No-Go'. Thanks.
I need to know because I have vinyl stripes that go right up to the edge of the emblem (no gap) and if your medallion is smaller, it's a 'No-Go'. Thanks.
Well, that all depends on your car 
Our piece runs right at 6.000" +/- .003" on average. (5.997"-6.003")
The factory piece runs anywhere (from what we've seen) from 5.985" to 6.045" - which is why our Honeycomb panel I.D. diameter is just a hair over the largest one we could find. (that's +/- .060" - just a hair over your spark plug gap vs. ours, which is about 2 sheets of notebook paper thick
)
So, yes, it should be the same, but there are variances in the OEM badges that occour, so just be aware of them.

Our piece runs right at 6.000" +/- .003" on average. (5.997"-6.003")
The factory piece runs anywhere (from what we've seen) from 5.985" to 6.045" - which is why our Honeycomb panel I.D. diameter is just a hair over the largest one we could find. (that's +/- .060" - just a hair over your spark plug gap vs. ours, which is about 2 sheets of notebook paper thick
)So, yes, it should be the same, but there are variances in the OEM badges that occour, so just be aware of them.



