TacoBill

Special thanks to OKCMustangGT for letting us all benefit from his DRL install.


This is Genuine Ford Module Part # F6RZ-13B218-AA. This unit has the Dual Output capability, but we do not need it for the 2005-06 Mustang GT. You can also use Part # F6SZ-13B218-AA as it does not have the Dual Output Feature.

This module turns on the “DRL” lights after a 15 second delay at about 75% power. They will turn off as soon as any of the normal lights are turned on.
Instead of using the low beam headlights we will be using the Grill “Fog” Lights as this just looks so much better.


I only list the tools, equipment, and procedure that I used, even though I might throw out some alternatives.

I want to thank Tom (89Trooper) for all his hard work locating all the wires and passing that information on to me prior to my install, not too mention his courage for tackling this project first.

WIRING SCHEME
RED = Power (Needs Constant 12v)
Black = Ground
Red/Black = Low Beams (In our case the Grill lights instead)
Gray/Red = Low Beams (Only required in Dual Output) We don’t need this wire
Brown = (Corner Lights)
Red/Green = Key ON (12v with Key ON, 0v with Key OFF)
Purple/White = Parking Brake (Didn’t use this one either)

TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
Drill - Drill Bits - Wire Stripper/Crimper - Pliers - Split-Loom Tubing - Knife
Flat Blade Screwdriver - Electrical Tape

The first thing I did was to remove the Radiator Cover. To do this remove the (6) plastic push pins that hold it in. Use the flat blade screwdriver to lift the center pin then also to lift the entire pin. Set these aside and DO NOT lose them.





The next thing was to decide where I wanted to put the Module. I decided Tom’s placement was an ideal spot, just to the passenger side of the fuse box.


Now it was time to mark and drill the holes for the screws that will attach the module to the car. Always a scary part, drilling holes in a month old car.


After I drilled the holes I decide to run the wires through the Split-Loom Tubing, thread the tubing to the desired location and pull the wires out as needed. I also decided to start the farthest from the module and work my way back. I threaded the tubing under the existing looms and then under the radiator cover. I cut the tubing off there and pulled out the Purple/White, Gray/Red, Red/Black and Black wires. I crimped caps on the Purple/White and Gray/Red wires, put electrical tape over the ends and tucked them back into the loom. I located the Tan/Orange wire in the factory loom that is located under the radiator cover and connected the Red/Black wire to it using the Quick Splice. I then returned the wiring to the factory loom and taped it shut.



I took the black wire, crimped a ring terminal to it and taped the connection. I then removed the nut on the bolt that holds the horn and placed the ring terminal over it, then replaced and tightened the nut.


The next task was to locate the Purple wire and White/Red wire in the Center loom extending from the fuse box. I also connected these with Quick Splices. The Red/Green wire to the Purple wire and the White/Red wire to the Brown wire. This was where I contemplated switching to soldering but managed to get the Quick Splices to work thought I had to have some patience here. There is very little slack in these wires and the Quick Splices are a little bulky in this area.


After I got these finished I used some electrical tape to tape the looms shut and covered the exposed wires from one loom to the next.

Now it was time to hook the Red wire to a constant 12v power source. I followed Tom’s advice once again and moved the fuse in the Red wire towards the 12v connection end instead of the module end.
I removed the car’s fuse box cover and once again followed Tom’s lead on where to snake the Red wire toward a Male Spade that is 12v constantly. I noticed you can actually pull the entire fuse box out of its base, not very far but far enough to snake the Red wire around the bottom passenger side of the box then out at the firewall end.
Then I had to cut the Red Wire Guard that is located at the firewall end of the fuse box so that the Red wire would fit with the fuse box cover on.


I cut the red wire to length and crimped a female spade to the end of the wire. I was now ready to hook the 12v Red wire to the 12v male spade in the fuse box. Before I did this, I unhooked battery. I did this as a precaution and don’t know if it is really necessary. I snaked the red wire around the fuse box, placed the Module Fuse in the area shown and plugged the female spade onto the male spade and bent the wire at a 90º to better accommodate the fuse box cover.


I replaced the fuse box cover, hooked the battery back up and was ready to test the DRL Module.
I started the car and waited 15 seconds and the lights popped on. I then turned on the parking lights, the DRLs turned off. I turned on the low beam headlights and the DRLs stayed off. I pulled the Grill Light switch and they came on brighter than with the DRL Module Controlling them. I switched to high beams, the Grill lights went out and the brights lit up. Everything worked as it was supposed to.

DRL Module Controlling the Grill Lights (on left), Standard Grill Light Operation (on right).

This completes my write-up on installing the Ford DRL module on my 2006 Mustang GT. I hope you found this helpful and informative.

karrnutt

To each his own,that's why mustang ownership is so great! In Canada all cars sold must have drls ,so every mustang here uses the low beam at a low output. To be different,I bought webelectrics module which uses the parking lights in the bumper. It is great that we can stand out from the crowd that makes us happy as indivuals!

TinPony2

The unit pictured above has a different part number than the ones listed in the thread. So I am confused. Can you tell us the price of the midule?

Deric

I thought DRL was an option that could be turned on via software by the dealer

GRAYPNY

One of the reasons that I like this car is because it doesn't have DRL!

OKCMustangGT

The model numbers listed are found on the package the module came in, and do not match what is printed on the module itself.

Got mine off eBay for around $40 shipped.

Last I knew no one had been able to make it work.

IMO All cars should have DRLs, makes it easier to be seen. Not to mention, running with the cener fogs on just looks cool.

89Trooper

If they can do it, it turns on the front corner lights.

karrnutt

The drls are in the software of every mustang and can be activated or deactivated according to the dot rules of the location where it is being delivered. TacoBil shows how to use the GT fogs as drls and the module I used uses the amber parking lights.If don't require drls where you live great. He And I have shown two options for folks who do want them or require them by law. By the way they are a great safety feature even if some people don't like their looks !

$teve

Followed the directions to a "t", but having issues. When I put the fuse in my fogs light up without the car being turned on or started. I tested every wire identified in this thread to see if it had the function called for by the directions that came with the module -- no issues.

The red/black coming out of the module is always hot -- I think its only supposed to be hot when firing the fogs at 75%. Leads me to believe I have a defective module.

Any ideas?

TacoBill

Hey Steve, I PM'd Daryl (original author of this write-up) to see if he has any input on your issue.

Willie

I have nothing to contribute to this thread. But here's an interesting note. I bought a similar product from GM back in the late 90s. Take a look at it. The housing is identical to Ford's. The wiring is different though. The GM part has only six wires..... Now if I could only find the instructions.... It would be nice to compare the wiring of both.

BTW, like everything else concerning my cars, I like to be "different". I built and installed a parking lamp DRL module on all three of my Mustangs. It took about $10 worth of components, minus the SPDT relays. Personally, I like the bright amber vs. the low voltage low beams. DRL's sole purpose is for oncoming vehicles to notice you. I think the amber does a better job at this than the white, but then that's just me. Besides, not too many S197s have parking lamp DRL's......

Torch_Vert

I'm with you, so you're different, but not quite unique . I prefer the turn signal based DRL's as well, and think they serve the purpose better. In my case I installed the DRL module from WebElectric.

TacoBill: as usual, a great install writeup.

$teve

Willie, today may be your lucky day. I was looking at a similar module to the GM branded one on eBay - made by Dominion Automotive. I had the seller send me the directions, they are attached. Wires may be the same colors...

nonsensez9

does that replace your low beam DRL? How do you turn off the low beam DRL?

Shawnisky

Wired my module today for the parking lamps as well, just curious how you bypassed the low voltage low beams? did you use a relay? Any help would be great, i hate my drl's as well lol. thx bro cheers.

AlloyGT

Bringing this one back from the dead. I just did this today, and it's not working. My lights and fogs work as normal, but the fogs never come on as DRLs. I have a power passenger seat, so there's already a relay in the spot that OP used for power. I tried the spot next to it. When they didn't work, I pulled the passenger seat relay and tried that spot from the writeup. Nothing. I noticed that I have two tan/orange wires under the radiator cover, so I switched the red/black wire to the other tan/orange wire. Still nothing.

I've double checked all of my connections, but I'm stumped.


Edit: Doh! As soon as I posted this, I scrolled back up and was looking at the pictures. It was then I noticed that I was plugged onto the rearward of the two spades, and the OP used the forward one. So I moved my power connection to the forward spade in the original spot I tried (keeping my passenger seat relay in its place).
Success!

ricco333

Hello, I have this same module with the dual output, if I want to connect the DRL to the low beams instead of the fog lights, do you know which color is the wire to splice the red/black stripe from the DRL module into?
I have a V6 and I don't have the fogs but have always been a fan of running lights.

thanks in advance and great write up BTW.

Erik

tylerb

go to your local dealership and they should show you the diagram of all the wires it shows colors and all I had to look at theirs when hookin up the fogs on the v6 I used to have.

MSS

I have a 2006 GT, bought the module and followed the instructions, everything works as listed in the test operation with the instructions supplied. So for those having problems might want to double check all your hook ups. Also I spliced in a little different. I pulled out the fuse box and made the splices right under the main connector. I hate working in tight spaces. I unscrewed the power cable in the rear of the box. I then unsnapped it from its base. You'll find a snap on the front and rear. then unscrewed the first two connectors from the top of the fuse panel. Once this is done there is a lot more slack in the harnesses to make the splice.

mach831

can any one help me i instaled HID in 2006 GT with relay and now got to turn the switch 2 or 3 times to get the drivers side to come on???i was told to run a black and red wire from relay to park light that fix driver side light from not cmeing on but then no DTRL or no dimmer switch... please help if you can ty