Well, I can see one complication with next weekend... Lidio is taking two cars next weekend so he doesn't know if he'll be able to make a pass in my car..... Unfortunately I weight about 120 pounds more than him... so figue at least .1 slower... hmmmm... wonder if I can get Mike from powerhouse to make a pass? Wonder how much he weighs??? LOL!!!

 

Maybe less than Lidio! LOL!! Mike Bowen has the fastest 05 V6 right now with a 12.3.. Why dont you email Mike through his website, and ask him ahead of time.. He will also have 2 cars at the event, but I'm sure he wouldnt mind..

http://www.powerhouse411.com/moreinfo.php?...Single_Turbo_V6

 

Hehe...don't forgot all of the other mods scrming has put in his purty yellar car---t-lock, 4.10's, tuner---that alone adds about $1k to the Zex kit price you're quoting...then a set of tires (at least for the rear)...it's a bit more than $500-600

I doubt a stock V6 with just a Zex shot can get in the 11.xxx's....but prove me wrong and we'll both be happy

 

Actually with the Zex the 4.10s are really not needed... They are actually part of the reason I'm having trouble getting the car to hook... I'm wondering how well the car would do with just a T-Lock and the Zex...

The base Zex kit is under $600... but I think to get consistent results you'ld really want to invest in the "racers" package... so figure $300 for that...

Ok.. here's my list of performance mods

X-Cal2 - $400
CAI - $350
Muffler - $270
gears & T-lock - $900
wheels & tires - $880
Zex - $900
LCAs - $250

so $4,000...

 

Just wandering, if you find out that the stock springs work the best, are you going to be seeling your lowering springs? I am in desperate need...

 

possibly... i love the ride and look I get from them... but if I don't take them out and get rid for them I'm afraid MSP will come over some night and rip them out while I'm sleeping! LOL!

 

If you want my opinion, leave the springs and shocks. You don't want a strictly track car do you? I mean, 13.4 with only a 100 shot is awesome. Here's what I would do: get some track only rear wheels and slicks/drag radials. If you get drag radials you can just slap them on before you drive to the track. With slicks you'd have to either trailer it or get a friend with a truck to bring 'em to the track for you. Here's another tip from my racer friend: unbolt the front sway bar at the track. You don't have to take it out, just unbolt it on the sides. It will launch better, trust me.

 

Ok, I will definitely try unbolting the front sway bar... I try it in the drive way first just to make sure I can do it before I get there...

I really hate the idea of having to swapping tires... I really really do... LOL! The closest track is an hour away and I go by myself... maybe i can put a trailer hitch on the car and tow a little utility trailer with the tires in it! LOL!

The stock springs really aren't that bad... so I'll put them in for this weekend and see how it goes from there...

I'm also leary about running slicks.... Right now I know my tires will break loose before anything else LETS LOOSE! LOL! I've I've still have the racing bug next summer perhaps will do the girdle and then get some slicks... LOL!

So Jimp, how is your car doing?

 

Great! I'm loving it. I don't use the Zex much right now, haven't been back to the track. I'm doing my rearend next, that's going to hurt me. Maybe when I get that done I'll try to take your crown! LOL! Until then... :worship:

 

Dont run the Slicks Scrming!! That will introduce an entirley different set of circumstances.. Your fine with the stock springs... Running slicks will force the power back through the driveline and force the upgrade of numerous other parts.. Lets leave the slicks discussion for another day.. LOL!! Your doing perfectly fine right now...

 

The question is do I just put the front ones back in or should I do both front and back... I was reading a different thread somewhere that said leave the stiffer springs in the back...

 

The rear springs are the ones which need to be stock.. The Stock V6 Springs I think are pretty good actually..

Definatley the stock springs are good enough for any type of street driving or racing.. Most replace the springs to make the car lower.. In the process they get a stiffer spring, which is sometimes just part of the upgrade.. But in reality, a stiffer spring really serves no true purpose unless your gonna be doing road racing..

If I am correct, Jimp is claiming he took a 25mph corner @ 60mph.. He did this using the sway bars anti-body roll effect.. The stock springs he is using are apart of his setup.. Stiffer front springs only help to promote a quicker steering response.. Also, when at a track like Laguna Seca, stiffer front springs help to keep the wheels on the ground when going over rough sections of the track also, gives the car a quicker steering response.. A heavier spring allows the car to steer quicker.. But is rough on bumps.. A lighter spring, has a slower steering response but allows one to drive more comfortably through rough sections of track and bumps in the chicanes.

There is no one here that can justify the need of stiffer springs for a street car.. Its BS Scrming.. The stock springs are perfect.. Take out the up-graded springs, and sell them to someone.. Then buy a set of GT springs off of Ebay, for $20 bucks, so you can cut them to lower the car..

By the way, Awsome Avatar!! It not only shows your able to do a burnout, but that the T-LOK works pretty good.

 

Ok... H&R springs are out of the front! I left the H&R in the back for now... The car actually sit pretty level now! LOL! I've been doing some research today... conflicting information (imagine that!) Some say soft rear springs... some say stiff! What's a poor boy to do! LOL! Well at least the fronts are out for this weekend! Also found the springs were messing up my tires! ouch! Not bad but you could definitely see it... I have a spare set of tires is the shed so not the end of the world...

While we had the car on the hoist I took a look to see what it takes to unhook the front sway bar... DANG! That thing is tucked up under there! I don't think this is something I'm going to want to try this weekend... hmmmm...

 

I was told the front sway bar was easy to unhook, but maybe i smoked too much crack today lol.

And im pretty sure you need softer springs in the rear for drag racing. Helps the back squat more, better weight transfer. Like in my 03 cobra, it has pretty bad wheel hop because of the stiffer springs in the rear, but it handles pretty good.

 

There is no way I could do it in a parking lot with out some jack stands... LOL! I was hoping it would be more towards front and easier to get at.... so put down you pipe and go have a look! LOL!

Ok... I just got back with the car... it's raining here so I can do any kind of launch on the wet pavement... but I hit the gas a few times while I was rolling... the front does come up some and I can definitely feel the rear squating more... not as much when everything was all stock... but now the car is more level too... so I've lifted the front about and inch from where it was... The car actually rides and handles pretty good with this set up... might be a nice medium between the lowered look and the drag setup... ????

The LCAs got rid of my wheel hop.. no sign of that what so ever last Saturday...

Hopefully I can get on some dry pavement and see how a fairly agressive launch feels... that and I'll do some more reading... LOL!

 

Just jack the front end up. Not that big of a deal.

 

no jack except the rinky dink thing in the trunk... and no jack stands... LOL! Also what do you unhook? just the ends?

 

Yes, the ends. Leave the brackets in the middle on. Should take less than 5 minutes.

 

WOW!! I have no idea how Scrming came up with removing the front springs to gain a weight transfer to the rear wheels.. I'm speechless!

 

ok... meet me at Norwalk on Saturday... bring your wrenches... you've been appointed to be the official sway-thing-losener-upper.... LOL!