V6 Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang V6 Performance and Technical Information

for those with the truetrac..

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Old 1/30/06, 08:12 PM
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What else besides the differential did you have to buy? Any install kits? shims? new flange nuts? etc?

Im doing mine this week and just dont want any suprises.
Old 1/30/06, 08:24 PM
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Originally posted by Fazm@January 30, 2006, 11:15 PM
What else besides the differential did you have to buy? Any install kits? shims? new flange nuts? etc?

Im doing mine this week and just dont want any suprises.
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categ...d-75/index.html


I purchased the truetrac just this morning and its going to be shipped out tomorrow. Mine is going in this Monday, Feb 6th. I sat down w/ my install team and we discussed this so as to avoid surprises.

I purchased from the above link:

truetrac.

FULL install kit. This INCLUDES SHIMS & BEARINGS. My install team recommended new bearings to be put in at the time the new axle is put in

FRPP 3.45 gears.

Gear Marking Compound (This should be in the FULL install kit. Drivetrainspecialists advised this was in their kit). This is needed to ensure ring/pinion is lined up correctly.

What is NOT in the full install kit:

Carb Cleaner or Brake Parts Cleaner -- Aerosol Can

Dial Indicator -- need this to make sure the ring/pinion is set up right.

Rear Axle Oil -- Detriot (now Eaton) does NOT recommend synthetic oil. They recommend standard gear oil. I'm going with 90W-140 gear oil for hotter climates because I live in Atlanta and Detriot (now Eaton) recommends this weight with the truetrac in warmer climates.


This, plus all the usual shop parts/tools. BTW: Looks like Panhard Rod needs to come off to get @ the Axle Cover.....

BTW: Check posts from board member gearhead for anything and everything you'd ever want to know about rear axles.
Old 1/30/06, 08:43 PM
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Geez, that install kit looks WAY overboard. I dont want to end up with 50 extra parts laying around lol.

Was hoping there was a more simple kit that just had what you needed. For one, the 7.5 doesnt use a gasket, it uses silicon. Im sure i dont need 30 shims.

Id like the bearings, just the shims i need, marking compound, ring gear bolts, and a couple other parts.

If theres no other options, i might have to go with this i guess
Old 1/30/06, 11:37 PM
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When my mechanic did mine (this is Randy, the same guy that did my exhaust) his carrier bearing puller was too big for the small bearings, and munched a cage while extracting. I just bought a new set from the parts shop next door for about $35. These bearings are just regular old wheel bearings, and they hold the differential in place.
You probably won't need shims.
As we have discussed previously, but to be clear for others reading this, I recommend that anyone doing this buy the standard Ford gear oil, 75W-140. Here is the brief reason why:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=43787
Old 1/31/06, 02:18 AM
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Here's what I got:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=42610
Plus the gear oil.
Old 1/31/06, 02:18 AM
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I'm going shopping tomorrow for my gear oil. No probs w/ getting plain ol' gear oil for the truetrac. I was thinking of getting Valvoline 85W-140 natrual oil.........
Old 1/31/06, 03:03 PM
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Gearhead: Did you need a dial indicator to ensure your new ring/pinion was installed correctly? Or did you just use gear marking compound? I'm changing my ring/pinion to 3.45 FRPP w/ the true trac. BTW: Thanks for the tip on the gear oil. I'll be getting the stock Ford plain 'ol gear 75W-140 oil you recommended instead of the valvoline plain 'ol gear 85W-140 oil....

Eric.
Old 1/31/06, 05:55 PM
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Originally posted by esorense@January 31, 2006, 3:06 PM
Gearhead: Did you need a dial indicator to ensure your new ring/pinion was installed correctly? Or did you just use gear marking compound? I'm changing my ring/pinion to 3.45 FRPP w/ the true trac. BTW: Thanks for the tip on the gear oil. I'll be getting the stock Ford plain 'ol gear 75W-140 oil you recommended instead of the valvoline plain 'ol gear 85W-140 oil....

Eric.
My mechanic Randy of Randy's Exhaust up in Marysville did the work, while I just watched. He used a backlash gauge both before he tore it apart and afterwards. The reading was the same each time. Randy also used the gear marking compound. I understand that you need to do both, because not only could you change the shims on each side of the ring, but also you can change the shims behind the pinion. I assume that the gear meshing is more subject to the pinion position, and the backlash to the ring position.
Old 1/31/06, 06:00 PM
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I assume that the gear meshing is more subject to the pinion position, and the backlash to the ring position.
That part is correct.

Im planning on tackling mine some time this weekend. I still want to make a trip to the track before i get it in, so i know what kind of gains im seeing.

Im going to be doing this myself, so it should be lots of fun lol. Shouldnt be that hard, i can get the whole thing apart in less then 30 min. Its going to be getting everything setup right (and im a perfectionist) that will take a while.
Old 1/31/06, 06:52 PM
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Originally posted by Fazm@January 31, 2006, 9:03 PM
That part is correct.

Im planning on tackling mine some time this weekend. I still want to make a trip to the track before i get it in, so i know what kind of gains im seeing.

Im going to be doing this myself, so it should be lots of fun lol. Shouldnt be that hard, i can get the whole thing apart in less then 30 min. Its going to be getting everything setup right (and im a perfectionist) that will take a while.
I hope everything goes well!! You will love the TT!!! I wish I could have heleped, but I just talked to DTS and they ordered everything I needed. And Excessive had shims, etc., so all in all, it was a painless isntall. For me, anyway....
Old 1/31/06, 07:04 PM
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Ya, im 30 seconds from checkers, 2 minutes from autozone, and 5 minutes fromt he ford dealer. If i need shims or bearings, im sure i can get some real quick lol




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