Mustang05

i have about... 700 dollars im stuck between getting a loc for the rear or a tune... If i get my tune it will be from Lido due to all the gret things i've heard and on the site it says when your at a dead stop and put the pedal to the floor it will spin the tires just from a tune. Ok.. well i want that.. but i dont want a right wheel peel only..so im thinking of just getting a loc first .. and install.. hopefully for 500 or less and wait a couple weeks for enough money for my tunner.. but i want the power and to peel out! Does a loc give you any extra "oomph" in your but dyno? thanks in advanced.!

Thomas S

$700 for an SCT-2 and tune by Lidio is flat out crazy. You can get an SCT-2 and three custom tunes from BamaChips for only $385. With the leftover $315 you should be able to get a T-Lok and gears. I don't care what scrming's ads say, Lidio's tunes can't possibly be that much better than Bama's, if at all.

Mustang05

Sorry about the confusion but the tune/tuner from Lido is only 400 .. i ment to say that i have 700 to spend so ill have 300 left over.. sorry again!

Mustang05

Also i would LOVE to find a place where i could get a tloc and gears for the left over . if you actually know a place could you pm me or anything to inform me where to get them for that price??

Thomas S

Well then you should have enough for both then. The T-Lok won't make it any faster, at least on a mostly stock car. It will give you better traction once you start ramping up the mods. The gears will probably make it fell faster than anything. I'd recommend 3.73s.

Thomas S

I found this real quick:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-73-gears-...sspagenameZWDVW
Used though. I'm still looking...

scrming

I would say go with tune.... T-lok is nice but what's the point if all the torque management stuff keeps you from getting all the power to the rear in the first place! LOL!

A tuner will definitely make a BIG difference...

Mustang05

Sounds like a Tuner is what ill get then! Thanks guys... Seems like from what everyone says that a tuner is the first thing us V6 guys should get

vistablue mustang

Doesn't tunning viod the warranty? I know you can set it back to stock if it has to go in for something but if the check the computer won't they be able to tell you messed with it? I want to do a tune my self but not at the expense of loosing my warranty

scrming

Supposedly they can tell the computer has been reflashed and how many times.. But even if they can tell it's been reflash how could they ever prove that you reflashed it? Could have been flashed mutliple times at the factory... When I had my TPS replace the procedure called for a reflash..... so how can they prove you did it... also if you return it to stock how could they prove that the changes you made caused the problem...

So... that being said... I see no way for them to be able to:

1) Prove you reflashed the computer
2) Even if they could prove you reflashed it, they can't prove the reflash caused the problem

Heck I took my car in for some warranty work with my N2O tune loaded... they were supposed to reflash it as part of the procedure for fixing my TPS... N2) tune was still loaded... and of course I still had my Nitrous kit installed in plain sight! LOL!

and my understanding is most dealers don't have the equipment or knowledge to even check the reflash "counter"...

Zodiac

I think checking that a tunes been done is going to be really hard. Its a basic mod pretty much every accepts. The only thing I think that will really get you in trouble is if you go way off the charts, turn the timing way too high and mess with the A/F too much and get some pinging that leads to problems later on.

Id get the flash first. I dont see the point in installing a T-lok w/o any gears, especially if you plan on going back and doing them later. Its like half-diddling the job, plus you're going to pay more in time and labor later on for them to open it back up and install the gears.

The flash is also necessary with the gears for a few reasons. The primary of which is the torque limiter is going to go insane if you put in gears w/o a reflash. Itll be worse in an auto. The flash is also necessary to recalibrate the speedo for a change in gear ratio.

Just my 2cents.

esorense

I agonized over this myself....and came to a final decision "Thats my final answer, Regis" end result that I'm not going to back down on. I decided to leave the rear 3.31/standard / factory stock non LTD-slip axle alone & un MOD'd. I live in ATL so I don't have to worry about snow & I put high performance (Potenza RE750) Summer tires on so I get better traction already w/ the tire upgrade plus I installed a GT takeoff Ford OEM 28mm antisway bar. Since I don't race or run N20 I think this axle upgrade is an upgrade I'm going to put on the shelf and let the idea collect dust & forget about it alltogether. For the money I'd go with the brenspeed.com SCT2 & Steeda CAI combo 'value meal'. The steeda CAI seems the best quality than some of the more flimsy-looking 'no reflash required' CAI kits out there. Also, brenspeed seems to be a reputable outfit to trust setting up the SCT2. Granted its $608. But I wanted the SCT2 versus the SCT for the xtra diagnostic stuff as I like the idea of being able to USB connect the tuner to my PC. This type of geek-stuff is not avail on the standard SCT & had value to me so I spent the extra money just to get the SCT2. Brenspeed does have tuner/CAI combo's starting at around $400+ if you can live w/ a less expensive CAI than the Steeda and don't care about all the other connect options you get with the SCT2 and can live w/ just the SCT. The SCT and SCT2 do the same basic thing -- reflash ECM -- the SCT2 just has more logging/geek-connect features that I found important.

With the balance of the $700 piggy bank -- get a decent axle-back muffler. I went with the ford racing/Borla unit because:

1. I like Borla's design philosophy --
a. They understand exhaust systems very well & focused on increasing CFM
by 40% over stock. This axle back can allow 40% more CFM flow than the factory. THATS also why I decided to shelf the JBA headers idea as well -- the muffler improves flow capacity by 40% alone.
b. They agree that big diameter pipes don't equate big power, but simply cause
more drone.
c. They intentionally tune all their systems to cancel high frequency tones. I interpret this to be as "Borla does not want their Mustang Exhausts to sound ricey."
2. They do sound the least ricey of all the exhausts I auditioned. Ricey aftermarket exhausts can be an issue for the V6 - --- just listen to the Magnaflow on the V6 and you'll understand.
3. Alex Borla has 4+ patents in Exhausts design.
4. David Borla is personable. I sent Borla an email and David Borla ended up adding me to his Plaxo. Nice to know they like to talk to their customers.
5. Hey, the original aftermarket exhaust maker for Ferrari's & other high end brands can't be all THAT bad to make a 'Stang exhaust!!

So I spent the extra few shillings here, too -- $229 shipped from V6mustangstuff.com. Yes, the Borla Exhaust is the highest priced axle-back for the V6 stang out there (MAC/JBA's/Magnas can all be had in the mid to high $100's) but I felt this was worth it.

All in all --- $608
$229
837

Or $137 over your budget. You could easily keep this at $700 and keep the Borla Exhaust if you can live with a less fancy ECM flasher than what I got & get the same results -- same ECM reflash as I have.