GT rear swar bar installed
9/20/05, 12:48 PM
#21
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Originally posted by P_Kiley@September 10, 2005, 8:45 AM
Just walked in from the yard after installing the GT rear sway bar on my 'vert.
Installation was a piece o' cake. Done in less than twenty minutes, including torquing all the hardware to spec.
Points to note:
1) I was able to do this without a lift, jackstands or removing the wheels (I've seen posts to the contrary here). All I needed were ramps to allow my fat hiney to fit under the car.
You do have to be sort of careful positioning the bar as you slide it under the rear frame reinforcements (or whatever you want to cal the big steel "V" that runs from under the center of the trunk out towards the doors). A litle wiggling and it can be positioned.
The trick seems to be to slide the bar inside the wheel from the back as you bring the first end in, that'll give you clearence to get the other side swung into place and positioned, then you can just even everything out.
2) Get ALL the factory bolts clips. This setup has some very unique captive bolts/clips. Trying to mickey mouse the hardware is just going to cause you extra headaches. Don't bother. Fortunately West Coast Performance supplied everything needed, as well as a useful printout with an exploded view drawing showing how it all goes together.
3) if you're considering this be aware Ford make TWO rear bars for the car. One for the coupe, one for the 'vert. The coupe bar will NOT fit a convertible (the 'vert bar will work on a coupe though). The difference between then is an extra bend or two on the 'very bar to clear the chassis reinforcements.
Speaking of West Coast, I'd like to give Charlie and Lisa there a HUGE thumbs up. They had trouble laying their hands on a rear bar for me, as 'vert bars were tight in the supply chain unexpectedly. They tracked one down though and received it at West Coast last Weds. He shipped the whole lot cross country second day Fedex specifically to get it to me for the weekend, without me even asking him to.. Great customer service
Ok, off to drive now
Just walked in from the yard after installing the GT rear sway bar on my 'vert.
Installation was a piece o' cake. Done in less than twenty minutes, including torquing all the hardware to spec.
Points to note:
1) I was able to do this without a lift, jackstands or removing the wheels (I've seen posts to the contrary here). All I needed were ramps to allow my fat hiney to fit under the car.
You do have to be sort of careful positioning the bar as you slide it under the rear frame reinforcements (or whatever you want to cal the big steel "V" that runs from under the center of the trunk out towards the doors). A litle wiggling and it can be positioned.
The trick seems to be to slide the bar inside the wheel from the back as you bring the first end in, that'll give you clearence to get the other side swung into place and positioned, then you can just even everything out.
2) Get ALL the factory bolts clips. This setup has some very unique captive bolts/clips. Trying to mickey mouse the hardware is just going to cause you extra headaches. Don't bother. Fortunately West Coast Performance supplied everything needed, as well as a useful printout with an exploded view drawing showing how it all goes together.
3) if you're considering this be aware Ford make TWO rear bars for the car. One for the coupe, one for the 'vert. The coupe bar will NOT fit a convertible (the 'vert bar will work on a coupe though). The difference between then is an extra bend or two on the 'very bar to clear the chassis reinforcements.
Speaking of West Coast, I'd like to give Charlie and Lisa there a HUGE thumbs up. They had trouble laying their hands on a rear bar for me, as 'vert bars were tight in the supply chain unexpectedly. They tracked one down though and received it at West Coast last Weds. He shipped the whole lot cross country second day Fedex specifically to get it to me for the weekend, without me even asking him to.. Great customer service
Ok, off to drive now
9/20/05, 09:54 PM
#22
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Completed my add-on this afternoon, had both front and rear done in an hour. Took the car for a run in our local hills (Blue Hills) much improved!! A more solid feel with no lean or rear "float". HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! FYI... I ordered my rear bar and brackets from local Ford Parts (Mark at Sentry LM) and total cost less than 200.00 Your parts supplier should do as well, how about KC05?? ...Only took 3 days from order to delivery
9/21/05, 12:16 AM
#23
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Originally posted by delz05@September 20, 2005, 9:57 PM
Completed my add-on this afternoon, had both front and rear done in an hour. Took the car for a run in our local hills (Blue Hills) much improved!! A more solid feel with no lean or rear "float". HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! FYI... I ordered my rear bar and brackets from local Ford Parts (Mark at Sentry LM) and total cost less than 200.00 Your parts supplier should do as well, how about KC05?? ...Only took 3 days from order to delivery
Completed my add-on this afternoon, had both front and rear done in an hour. Took the car for a run in our local hills (Blue Hills) much improved!! A more solid feel with no lean or rear "float". HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! FYI... I ordered my rear bar and brackets from local Ford Parts (Mark at Sentry LM) and total cost less than 200.00 Your parts supplier should do as well, how about KC05?? ...Only took 3 days from order to delivery
Is there any chance you can list all the parts one would need in order to do the install?
Thanks in advance
9/21/05, 08:52 AM
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Originally posted by sundeep@September 21, 2005, 1:19 AM
Is there any chance you can list all the parts one would need in order to do the install?
Thanks in advance
Is there any chance you can list all the parts one would need in order to do the install?
Thanks in advance
Stabilizer bar, $129.06
2 Brackets, $23.74
2 Bushings, $13.36
2 Links, $77.30
Total: $243.46
Don't forget the bolts and nuts, either. Good luck!
9/21/05, 10:54 PM
#26
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The P/N's ordered thru FORD are as follows:
PLEASE NOTE: this bar is a Convertible bar, different from Coupe, but nearly same cost!
P/N 6R3Z5A772B Includes bushings and stablizer pins
List cost is 172.08 I paid 130.00 (I believe 772A is for coupe)
P/N 4R3Z5486AA (2 needed) Brackets (I believe same for all)
List is 15.82 ea I paid 12.50 ea
2 - 12 mm bolts by 65mm length; 4 - 10mm by 35mm length
corresponding flat and lock washers. I used stainless stopnuts with nylon inserts. 5.00 fron local hardware store.
to DANTEMO: this has no effect on the exhaust, not even close. The bar mounts at base of rear end, near lower shock mounting point, using the 2 brackets, and then the 2 stablizing pins mount to the "rear frame rails" beside the tank. These mounting points are the same on all cars.
AGAIN this P/N given was for a CONVERTIBLE GT. I now have installed both front (Saleen take-off) and rear FORD GT bars for aprox 200.00
PLEASE NOTE: this bar is a Convertible bar, different from Coupe, but nearly same cost!
P/N 6R3Z5A772B Includes bushings and stablizer pins
List cost is 172.08 I paid 130.00 (I believe 772A is for coupe)
P/N 4R3Z5486AA (2 needed) Brackets (I believe same for all)
List is 15.82 ea I paid 12.50 ea
2 - 12 mm bolts by 65mm length; 4 - 10mm by 35mm length
corresponding flat and lock washers. I used stainless stopnuts with nylon inserts. 5.00 fron local hardware store.
to DANTEMO: this has no effect on the exhaust, not even close. The bar mounts at base of rear end, near lower shock mounting point, using the 2 brackets, and then the 2 stablizing pins mount to the "rear frame rails" beside the tank. These mounting points are the same on all cars.
AGAIN this P/N given was for a CONVERTIBLE GT. I now have installed both front (Saleen take-off) and rear FORD GT bars for aprox 200.00
9/22/05, 12:03 PM
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Originally posted by Zodiac@September 22, 2005, 12:23 PM
If you were to buy just the rear sway bar what hardware would you need for just that?
If you were to buy just the rear sway bar what hardware would you need for just that?
9/22/05, 07:10 PM
#30
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Originally posted by panamajk89@September 22, 2005, 1:06 PM
The hardware listed in post #26 is all required. Ford uses some clip-on nuts and bolts to mount the bar to the link points and the shock mounts. It's really an easy installation and makes a discernable difference in ride quality. Good luck!
The hardware listed in post #26 is all required. Ford uses some clip-on nuts and bolts to mount the bar to the link points and the shock mounts. It's really an easy installation and makes a discernable difference in ride quality. Good luck!
9/22/05, 07:46 PM
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Originally posted by Zodiac@September 22, 2005, 8:13 PM
Yeah but Im dumb. All I see are part #s and have no idea what that means. If I were order the front through the take offs and the rear from Ford what would it look like cost wise?
Yeah but Im dumb. All I see are part #s and have no idea what that means. If I were order the front through the take offs and the rear from Ford what would it look like cost wise?
9/23/05, 06:14 PM
#32
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Front sway bar upgrade from Saleen (GT take-off) uses bolts and nuts from your own car, no changes. Upgrade to a rear swaybar from Ford and you will need 2 12mm nut/bolt combos for the stablizer pins and 4 10mm combos for the brackets.
9/28/05, 05:24 PM
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Guys... I want to make sure I got this right.. I couldn't see from the exploded view EXACTLY hot the bolt clips went it. Notice the clips for the stabilizer bar link.. The clips (with the nuts welded) clip onto the inboard side of the car from the bottom..Correct?
And the bolts that go to the shock towers clip in from the front of the car and then you slide them down until they clip in... Correct?
Thanx in advance...
(sorry for the blurry photo's...)
And the bolts that go to the shock towers clip in from the front of the car and then you slide them down until they clip in... Correct?
Thanx in advance...
(sorry for the blurry photo's...)
9/29/05, 08:49 AM
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Originally posted by DanteMO@September 28, 2005, 6:27 PM
Guys... I want to make sure I got this right.. I couldn't see from the exploded view EXACTLY hot the bolt clips went it. Notice the clips for the stabilizer bar link.. The clips (with the nuts welded) clip onto the inboard side of the car from the bottom..Correct?
And the bolts that go to the shock towers clip in from the front of the car and then you slide them down until they clip in... Correct?
Thanx in advance...
(sorry for the blurry photo's...)
Guys... I want to make sure I got this right.. I couldn't see from the exploded view EXACTLY hot the bolt clips went it. Notice the clips for the stabilizer bar link.. The clips (with the nuts welded) clip onto the inboard side of the car from the bottom..Correct?
And the bolts that go to the shock towers clip in from the front of the car and then you slide them down until they clip in... Correct?
Thanx in advance...
(sorry for the blurry photo's...)
9/29/05, 07:09 PM
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*LOL*...No it said -52 ft lbs didn't it? No...It is a pic in progress... I wanted to check before I torqued them down all the way...
Yep... I slide the bolts for the bushings in from the front of the car and then slide them down until the clip "snapped" into place. I tried going from the back of the car (the clip then would be on the back side of the mounting bracket) but that just didn't look right. In Charlie's email he said "The bolts that go to the shock towers click in from back to front" but I wasn't sure if he meant the "back of the car" side of the towers or the "front of the car" side. *LOL*... I think he meant to say from the back of the shock tower if you were looking from the rear of the car..
It's in... But man... I've got some electrical problems in my car... I was taking it out for a spin after putting the sway bar in to see how it felt, and I decided to put the top down after I was done in the parking lot making sharp turns. All of sudden the front windows went down (just like normal), the back didn't and I heard what sounded like a short or crackling nose. Now, the front windows won't go back up, the rear windows won't go down, the top doesn't move at all and the radio comes on (sometimes) but I get no sound... The power mirrors don't work either. But the door locks, lights, interior lights, heater/ac, blower, trunk release all work... I'm taking it into the dealer next week. I checked every freakin fuse in my fuse box and none of them are blown. I had a problem with the drivers side window not going up all the way about 1 month ago, and it seemed to fix itself the next day. I took it into the dealer and of course, it didn't fail so they said there wasn't a problem... Does anyone have any ideas? (Totally bummed out!!)
Yep... I slide the bolts for the bushings in from the front of the car and then slide them down until the clip "snapped" into place. I tried going from the back of the car (the clip then would be on the back side of the mounting bracket) but that just didn't look right. In Charlie's email he said "The bolts that go to the shock towers click in from back to front" but I wasn't sure if he meant the "back of the car" side of the towers or the "front of the car" side. *LOL*... I think he meant to say from the back of the shock tower if you were looking from the rear of the car..
It's in... But man... I've got some electrical problems in my car... I was taking it out for a spin after putting the sway bar in to see how it felt, and I decided to put the top down after I was done in the parking lot making sharp turns. All of sudden the front windows went down (just like normal), the back didn't and I heard what sounded like a short or crackling nose. Now, the front windows won't go back up, the rear windows won't go down, the top doesn't move at all and the radio comes on (sometimes) but I get no sound... The power mirrors don't work either. But the door locks, lights, interior lights, heater/ac, blower, trunk release all work... I'm taking it into the dealer next week. I checked every freakin fuse in my fuse box and none of them are blown. I had a problem with the drivers side window not going up all the way about 1 month ago, and it seemed to fix itself the next day. I took it into the dealer and of course, it didn't fail so they said there wasn't a problem... Does anyone have any ideas? (Totally bummed out!!)
10/1/05, 09:21 AM
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Originally posted by DanteMO@September 29, 2005, 8:12 PM
*LOL*...No it said -52 ft lbs didn't it? No...It is a pic in progress... I wanted to check before I torqued them down all the way...
Yep... I slide the bolts for the bushings in from the front of the car and then slide them down until the clip "snapped" into place. I tried going from the back of the car (the clip then would be on the back side of the mounting bracket) but that just didn't look right. In Charlie's email he said "The bolts that go to the shock towers click in from back to front" but I wasn't sure if he meant the "back of the car" side of the towers or the "front of the car" side. *LOL*... I think he meant to say from the back of the shock tower if you were looking from the rear of the car..
It's in... But man... I've got some electrical problems in my car... I was taking it out for a spin after putting the sway bar in to see how it felt, and I decided to put the top down after I was done in the parking lot making sharp turns. All of sudden the front windows went down (just like normal), the back didn't and I heard what sounded like a short or crackling nose. Now, the front windows won't go back up, the rear windows won't go down, the top doesn't move at all and the radio comes on (sometimes) but I get no sound... The power mirrors don't work either. But the door locks, lights, interior lights, heater/ac, blower, trunk release all work... I'm taking it into the dealer next week. I checked every freakin fuse in my fuse box and none of them are blown. I had a problem with the drivers side window not going up all the way about 1 month ago, and it seemed to fix itself the next day. I took it into the dealer and of course, it didn't fail so they said there wasn't a problem... Does anyone have any ideas? (Totally bummed out!!)
*LOL*...No it said -52 ft lbs didn't it? No...It is a pic in progress... I wanted to check before I torqued them down all the way...
Yep... I slide the bolts for the bushings in from the front of the car and then slide them down until the clip "snapped" into place. I tried going from the back of the car (the clip then would be on the back side of the mounting bracket) but that just didn't look right. In Charlie's email he said "The bolts that go to the shock towers click in from back to front" but I wasn't sure if he meant the "back of the car" side of the towers or the "front of the car" side. *LOL*... I think he meant to say from the back of the shock tower if you were looking from the rear of the car..
It's in... But man... I've got some electrical problems in my car... I was taking it out for a spin after putting the sway bar in to see how it felt, and I decided to put the top down after I was done in the parking lot making sharp turns. All of sudden the front windows went down (just like normal), the back didn't and I heard what sounded like a short or crackling nose. Now, the front windows won't go back up, the rear windows won't go down, the top doesn't move at all and the radio comes on (sometimes) but I get no sound... The power mirrors don't work either. But the door locks, lights, interior lights, heater/ac, blower, trunk release all work... I'm taking it into the dealer next week. I checked every freakin fuse in my fuse box and none of them are blown. I had a problem with the drivers side window not going up all the way about 1 month ago, and it seemed to fix itself the next day. I took it into the dealer and of course, it didn't fail so they said there wasn't a problem... Does anyone have any ideas? (Totally bummed out!!)
One reason I opted not to get TCS and ABS was all the issues I had with them in my past Fords. It's less stuff to get wet and fry out. Everytime we had a significant moisture event, something went wrong; wipers would quit working, TC would automatically come on and stay on, etc. Have you gotten a lot of rain in STL lately? We have here in the Chicago area, so maybe a harness somewhere got wet. Anyway, just a thought. Good luck.
10/5/05, 06:30 PM
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Good News!!!
It was a fuse... Well, it turns out that all of that was because of a blown fuse. It was fuse 1702. FUSE F1.44 10A fuse was blown. All the mechanics were gone so I couldn't have them show me where that fuse was. Does anyone know where that fuse is. According to the repair order it was circuit 294 FROM C1035A to C2280H. They traced that circiut and found no chaffing or grounding problems.
Glad it as nothing...
It was a fuse... Well, it turns out that all of that was because of a blown fuse. It was fuse 1702. FUSE F1.44 10A fuse was blown. All the mechanics were gone so I couldn't have them show me where that fuse was. Does anyone know where that fuse is. According to the repair order it was circuit 294 FROM C1035A to C2280H. They traced that circiut and found no chaffing or grounding problems.
Glad it as nothing...