ZEX INSTALL 05 ROUSH
10/12/05, 11:18 AM
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While the air filter from WMS was @ Outerwears, I moved the battery,installed the nitrous kit, and added the Roush Stripes as well.
The battery relocation went smoother than I thought. I did remove the entire harness right down to the starter and retained all the factory push in clips, and mounting points. The alternator feed line also ran to the battery, I simply removed it, and retained its end as it was on the battery. There was plenty of length to re-route the cable to the main power stud on the power distribution block. The positive and negative ends were removed, and I went to my local NAPA and purchased 2 guage "butt connectors" and shrink tubing as well. I used a spool of solid black I had for both lines.
I soldered and shrink wrapped the connections, also wrapped both with electrical tape, and wire loomed both. I was able to pass cables down and around the base of the firewall from the engine bay towards the inner fender. theres just enough room to do this, and its smooth so theres no chance of chafing the cables.I'll pics of that...
With the inner fender removed, I was able to pass them though into the into the car with an exisitng grommet. the cables run down the length of the passenger side along the existing harnness under the carpet, and tucked away. I was impressed with how much room there is for this. No bulging of the carpet, just plenty of room. Removed the inner rear plastic panels and ran the cables along the contour of the car all the way to the rear, using zip ties to secure along the OEM harness.
The terminal ends are from Crutchfield. Ive had them for some time, and they hard to find now I think. They are 2 guage titanium ends, and the gold battery terminals to match from Rockford Fosgate. The battery tray is the billet one offered in Summit racing, as well as the yellow top Optima. I did drill one hole for the tray, and used the threaded hole that would normally hold the SHAKER 1000 subwoofer. There is two tapped holes back there that could be used for many things.
Heres the finished Nitrous install using the WMS intake. The Zex kit is pretty simple to install, as most already know. I decided I wanted to keep my spare even though its not my daily driver. I take some long trips sometimes, and dont feel the need to hide the bottle, and being stuck with out a spare is not my idea of a good time.
The Nitrous bottle is mounted on the left side, and the battery was relocated to the right side. I always take my time, and spend much time on Attention to Detail. The carpet was a pain to cut around the brackets without making complete slits across, but it turned out better than I expected. Pull the bottle, pass the nitorus brackets through the holes,Lift the carpet, and spare still pulls right out. I also made my own harnesses using GM weather-pak connectors for the heater, and remote bottle valve, one with a female end, and the other with a male to never confuse the two. Only hooks up one way.
Like Cleveland's, it easy to pull out, and could quickly swap over the valve and heater to bottle number 2 to keep the flow going
I decided to run the nitrous feedline along the inside of the car, not outside. Took all the interior panels out and drivers seat and rear seats to give myself plenty of room. The feed line was wrapped with electrical tape, and wire loomed as well the distance through the car. The line then runs directly behind the inner fender, and over to where the WMS coolant reservoir tank is located, wrapped in loom, and run with the factory harness, also hidden and blends in.
I was limited with the where I could mount the Zex relay box, and decided to mount it behind the coolant reservoir tank, inside the WMS relocation bracket as shown. The lines, and button are still easy to reach without removing anything, so its nice and hidden, but accesible. The two lines to the nozzle are only 2ft long in the kit, and I needed longer, so a phonecall to Summit got me 2 4ft lines, one Blue (nitrous) one red (fuel). the zex lines are all purple, which I dont care for. And besides, it could get confusing changing jets considering the Zex lines are both purple. Unless U can trace your lines back to the noids, same colors are silly to use IMO, they really want that purple to stand out
lol.
The 4ft lines are a little long, but I was easily able to take up that extra slack. Both lines are also run in wire looms, and hidden.
The braided fuel feed line was also covered and hidden, and I used my METCO fuel block, not the zex. Once again...the purple looks silly, and really sticks out in the engine bay, not my style. The Metco also has a guage, so 2 ports rather than the one that comes with the purple Zex block. This way... its easy to watch the fuel pressure, while on the dyno of course
Wiring the Zex kit couldnt be simpler, Ive installed plenty of kits over the years, but this was the easiest for sure. With the solenoids and WOT switch all contained in one unit makes this a good street piece, simple, effective. The TPS wire was run around the engine, and I tapped into the yellow wire down low in the harness, to also hide that wiring as well.
As mentioned in the plug thread, the nozzle is now moved up alittle, and I am no longer using the Zex supplied fitting. The nozzle is now inserted through the rubber, minus fitting, and held tight with a nut from the inside, just as normal, only higher. For those wondering, I was having fuel puddling issues with the nozzle too low, and only 2 inched from the TB. The feedlines are run under the WMS ram-tray and hide very well under the tray. There are secured, and wrapped with the extra NASA tape I had left over to also help and prevent heat soak to the feed lines.
The switches were the most work for sure. The location I chose was in the center console, on the access panel for the E-Brake. Theres three switches there. The black rocker switch is for the remote bottle valve, the blue swith w/ blue LED is for the heater, and the red switch w/ red LED is for the arming. I chose the switches with the LED's only so I could tell b a glance whats on. The heater is automatic and will maintain the temp between 950-1100 psi. I should have taken more detailed pics, but once I get into something, I really get into it. My friends think Im crazy spending this much time to detail, but hey...its gotta look good IMO, and spending that little extra time now, really pays off in the end.
Some of the factory harnesses were a pain to open and pass wires through, but well worth it. I still have to install the purge, and the system will be done for now.
Heres somes pics I took, I think it came out pretty good. I like how hidden it is.thoughts please
[attachmentid=36012][attachmentid=36013][attachmentid=36014][attachmentid=36015][attachmentid=36016]
Some more pics to follow...
The battery relocation went smoother than I thought. I did remove the entire harness right down to the starter and retained all the factory push in clips, and mounting points. The alternator feed line also ran to the battery, I simply removed it, and retained its end as it was on the battery. There was plenty of length to re-route the cable to the main power stud on the power distribution block. The positive and negative ends were removed, and I went to my local NAPA and purchased 2 guage "butt connectors" and shrink tubing as well. I used a spool of solid black I had for both lines.
I soldered and shrink wrapped the connections, also wrapped both with electrical tape, and wire loomed both. I was able to pass cables down and around the base of the firewall from the engine bay towards the inner fender. theres just enough room to do this, and its smooth so theres no chance of chafing the cables.I'll pics of that...
With the inner fender removed, I was able to pass them though into the into the car with an exisitng grommet. the cables run down the length of the passenger side along the existing harnness under the carpet, and tucked away. I was impressed with how much room there is for this. No bulging of the carpet, just plenty of room. Removed the inner rear plastic panels and ran the cables along the contour of the car all the way to the rear, using zip ties to secure along the OEM harness.
The terminal ends are from Crutchfield. Ive had them for some time, and they hard to find now I think. They are 2 guage titanium ends, and the gold battery terminals to match from Rockford Fosgate. The battery tray is the billet one offered in Summit racing, as well as the yellow top Optima. I did drill one hole for the tray, and used the threaded hole that would normally hold the SHAKER 1000 subwoofer. There is two tapped holes back there that could be used for many things.
Heres the finished Nitrous install using the WMS intake. The Zex kit is pretty simple to install, as most already know. I decided I wanted to keep my spare even though its not my daily driver. I take some long trips sometimes, and dont feel the need to hide the bottle, and being stuck with out a spare is not my idea of a good time.
The Nitrous bottle is mounted on the left side, and the battery was relocated to the right side. I always take my time, and spend much time on Attention to Detail. The carpet was a pain to cut around the brackets without making complete slits across, but it turned out better than I expected. Pull the bottle, pass the nitorus brackets through the holes,Lift the carpet, and spare still pulls right out. I also made my own harnesses using GM weather-pak connectors for the heater, and remote bottle valve, one with a female end, and the other with a male to never confuse the two. Only hooks up one way.
Like Cleveland's, it easy to pull out, and could quickly swap over the valve and heater to bottle number 2 to keep the flow going
I decided to run the nitrous feedline along the inside of the car, not outside. Took all the interior panels out and drivers seat and rear seats to give myself plenty of room. The feed line was wrapped with electrical tape, and wire loomed as well the distance through the car. The line then runs directly behind the inner fender, and over to where the WMS coolant reservoir tank is located, wrapped in loom, and run with the factory harness, also hidden and blends in.
I was limited with the where I could mount the Zex relay box, and decided to mount it behind the coolant reservoir tank, inside the WMS relocation bracket as shown. The lines, and button are still easy to reach without removing anything, so its nice and hidden, but accesible. The two lines to the nozzle are only 2ft long in the kit, and I needed longer, so a phonecall to Summit got me 2 4ft lines, one Blue (nitrous) one red (fuel). the zex lines are all purple, which I dont care for. And besides, it could get confusing changing jets considering the Zex lines are both purple. Unless U can trace your lines back to the noids, same colors are silly to use IMO, they really want that purple to stand out
lol.The 4ft lines are a little long, but I was easily able to take up that extra slack. Both lines are also run in wire looms, and hidden.
The braided fuel feed line was also covered and hidden, and I used my METCO fuel block, not the zex. Once again...the purple looks silly, and really sticks out in the engine bay, not my style. The Metco also has a guage, so 2 ports rather than the one that comes with the purple Zex block. This way... its easy to watch the fuel pressure, while on the dyno of course
Wiring the Zex kit couldnt be simpler, Ive installed plenty of kits over the years, but this was the easiest for sure. With the solenoids and WOT switch all contained in one unit makes this a good street piece, simple, effective. The TPS wire was run around the engine, and I tapped into the yellow wire down low in the harness, to also hide that wiring as well.
As mentioned in the plug thread, the nozzle is now moved up alittle, and I am no longer using the Zex supplied fitting. The nozzle is now inserted through the rubber, minus fitting, and held tight with a nut from the inside, just as normal, only higher. For those wondering, I was having fuel puddling issues with the nozzle too low, and only 2 inched from the TB. The feedlines are run under the WMS ram-tray and hide very well under the tray. There are secured, and wrapped with the extra NASA tape I had left over to also help and prevent heat soak to the feed lines.
The switches were the most work for sure. The location I chose was in the center console, on the access panel for the E-Brake. Theres three switches there. The black rocker switch is for the remote bottle valve, the blue swith w/ blue LED is for the heater, and the red switch w/ red LED is for the arming. I chose the switches with the LED's only so I could tell b a glance whats on. The heater is automatic and will maintain the temp between 950-1100 psi. I should have taken more detailed pics, but once I get into something, I really get into it. My friends think Im crazy spending this much time to detail, but hey...its gotta look good IMO, and spending that little extra time now, really pays off in the end.
Some of the factory harnesses were a pain to open and pass wires through, but well worth it. I still have to install the purge, and the system will be done for now.
Heres somes pics I took, I think it came out pretty good. I like how hidden it is.thoughts please
[attachmentid=36012][attachmentid=36013][attachmentid=36014][attachmentid=36015][attachmentid=36016]
Some more pics to follow...
10/12/05, 06:07 PM
#4
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Very nice indeed!!! My buddy who helped me install my kit is like you... every thing is thought out.... nice and neat... I get a lot of compliments on how clean my install is... I owe a lot of it to my buddy!
10/12/05, 06:07 PM
#5
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That's a remarkably well done install. Nice job! I definitely think that the detail and care you put into that is worth it. If I were going to do nitrous, I'd want you to do the install
10/12/05, 11:25 PM
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Looks awesome, just a word though about your nitrous injeciton site. Be very careful to look at each plug after a few pulls with the NO2, it is difficult to get good atomization and mixture of the fuel/NO2 with it that close to the TB and it is hard to deliver even amounts to all cylinders. If you find that some of your plugs are black and some are whiteish/gray then mixture problems are upon you. It isn't the black plugs that are troublesome, it is the light ones that indicate a lean mixture and this is where your engine will start using the material in the pistons for a fuel source when fuel is in short supply.
10/13/05, 07:04 AM
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Awesome job.Where are you going to mount or have you mounted an ON-Off battery switch on the back of car?Must have it to run at any track when battery is in the trunk.
10/13/05, 11:18 AM
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Thanks for the compliments guys. It did turn out better than I expected for sure. With the down time, I had no reason not to tear into like this. I wouldnt mind helping anyone anyway I can. Im no expert..by far but try to help if I could.
SCRMING,
My cousin is at fault. I had to stop with the short cuts and the butchery, he forced me LOL
shmads,
Bring that ride here, and I'll help a fellow... soon to be Nitrous owner
cleveland,
Thank u vey much, that means alot coming from you. Your install is just as sweet
Ford Racing,
I could have taken better detail pics, and documentaion along the way.
black3V,
You'll get it soon, probably that TSB. If your ever up North, stop by.
Derek,
How right u are bro. I had this in mind well before the install, and even contacted Zex about the soon to be situation. I knew it would be an issue with the WMS, but I planned on tackling it.
Basically....#5 plug burned up, no damage to motor, but it did exactly what u expected. Funny thing is, Zex and their Tech help from Comp Cams said I would be fine before hand when I questioned just this...lol they were wrong.
I'll find the thread with my plug pic and post it here for u to check it out. Thanks for tips, I might need to pick your brain in the future
mikem,
I never planned to go this far with this car at all, but the racer in me took over. Yes, a switch is a must, and I knew this getting into it. I will correct that for new season. For now, I'll be allright without one.The 01' will be jealous when she gets back from the chassis shop....lol
I will be mounting a flaming river switch/rod somewhere. So far Im thinking an extra right tailight for track use only, and I could have the handle pass through it, nothing definite yet.
gotan05....Sean,
Thanks for what your doing bro. Kick some F'n hiney over there. Im proud of everyone and the mission at hand.Our troops are doing incredible work, all for the right reasons.I only wish the LIBERAL media here would wake up, and stop the BS they like to stir up.
When U get back, bring that ride to DE, I'll hook u up bro, no problem at all! Thank U
SCRMING,
My cousin is at fault. I had to stop with the short cuts and the butchery, he forced me LOL
shmads,
Bring that ride here, and I'll help a fellow... soon to be Nitrous owner
cleveland,
Thank u vey much, that means alot coming from you. Your install is just as sweet
Ford Racing,
I could have taken better detail pics, and documentaion along the way.
black3V,
You'll get it soon, probably that TSB. If your ever up North, stop by.
Derek,
How right u are bro. I had this in mind well before the install, and even contacted Zex about the soon to be situation. I knew it would be an issue with the WMS, but I planned on tackling it.
Basically....#5 plug burned up, no damage to motor, but it did exactly what u expected. Funny thing is, Zex and their Tech help from Comp Cams said I would be fine before hand when I questioned just this...lol they were wrong.
I'll find the thread with my plug pic and post it here for u to check it out. Thanks for tips, I might need to pick your brain in the future
mikem,
I never planned to go this far with this car at all, but the racer in me took over. Yes, a switch is a must, and I knew this getting into it. I will correct that for new season. For now, I'll be allright without one.The 01' will be jealous when she gets back from the chassis shop....lol
I will be mounting a flaming river switch/rod somewhere. So far Im thinking an extra right tailight for track use only, and I could have the handle pass through it, nothing definite yet.
gotan05....Sean,
Thanks for what your doing bro. Kick some F'n hiney over there. Im proud of everyone and the mission at hand.Our troops are doing incredible work, all for the right reasons.I only wish the LIBERAL media here would wake up, and stop the BS they like to stir up.
When U get back, bring that ride to DE, I'll hook u up bro, no problem at all! Thank U
11/9/05, 07:54 AM
#15
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BUMP...
Anyone think a micro activation switch mounted on a custom bracket under the go pedal would be a bad idea? It would only activate when the pedal hits WOT, not when the volts do.
It could help with the early activation that most are having with the ZEX.. just a thought..
Anyone think a micro activation switch mounted on a custom bracket under the go pedal would be a bad idea? It would only activate when the pedal hits WOT, not when the volts do.
It could help with the early activation that most are having with the ZEX.. just a thought..
11/10/05, 10:48 AM
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Originally posted by 05STG1@November 9, 2005, 7:57 AM
BUMP...
Anyone think a micro activation switch mounted on a custom bracket under the go pedal would be a bad idea? It would only activate when the pedal hits WOT, not when the volts do.
It could help with the early activation that most are having with the ZEX.. just a thought..
BUMP...
Anyone think a micro activation switch mounted on a custom bracket under the go pedal would be a bad idea? It would only activate when the pedal hits WOT, not when the volts do.
It could help with the early activation that most are having with the ZEX.. just a thought..
Mike E
11/10/05, 11:07 AM
#17
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Tue indeed, not sure it would either.
Im thinking of asking my tuner if theres a way to get in the PCM, and from there control when the TPS sees full WOT voltage.Instead of just half throttle, maybe the tuners can get in there and adjust that.. might be possible, not sure.
Maybe im wrong in thinking this, but the zex kicking in just past half throttle, tells me the extra distance (on the pedal) wont do squat as far as what the PCM is reading, im still at WOT, and the pedal to the floor does nothing more than half way...IMO
Maybe a tuner can chime in on that thought.
Im thinking of asking my tuner if theres a way to get in the PCM, and from there control when the TPS sees full WOT voltage.Instead of just half throttle, maybe the tuners can get in there and adjust that.. might be possible, not sure.
Maybe im wrong in thinking this, but the zex kicking in just past half throttle, tells me the extra distance (on the pedal) wont do squat as far as what the PCM is reading, im still at WOT, and the pedal to the floor does nothing more than half way...IMO
Maybe a tuner can chime in on that thought.
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