MustangRetribution

Is it actually grinding though, its somewhat normal to need to release the clutch give it a few seconds and try again before it will let you get it in reverse, I think just about every mustang I have owned has done this, I had a tacoma with the same deal, owners manual actually adressed it saying that it may be neccesary to release the clutch wait 5 seconds then try again.

GPStang06

Hmmmm well I am not sure if my issue I have had is the same however I have had an "inconsistant" feel with my clutch. It never feels the same. Sometimes it seesm to grab to soon and "chatters" which feels somthing similar to wheelhop and other times it slips. Other times it's just fine. This is all of course leaving in 1st from a dead stop. other gears are fine.

MustangRetribution

Have you ever been epecially hard on your clutch? Did you buy it new? or used?

My buddy had this issue with his 300 zx after some real hard rides on his clutch, we pulled it and his fly wheel had spotting from the heat and some glazing, this generally causes inconsistent feel in clutch operation(chatter).

GPStang06

Bought it new and no, nothing crazy with the clutch outside of normal hard driving for a Mustang GT. Never tried to launch it for fast reaction times or anything like that. it's been like this from day one and of course when the dealer looks at it they can never find anything wrong. When it engages to soon and chatters it's when the car is cold. When it slips it happens when it's warm.

MustangRetribution

my guess would still be the flywheel without knowing anything else about your car. maybe it got roasted on a test drive before you bought it. could be the clutch disc to I suppose.

or maybe your driving

if its most prominent when cold you may want to leave it at the dealer for a overnight stay( i know terrible thought)

GPStang06

Could be me, but never had an issue with a manual in 20+ years of driving but.

Then again it is supercharged so who knows. I just have to get lucky and have it experieance the problem at the dealer so they can look further.

OK, enough hijacking LOL.

Roy

it is your syncro's they don't hold up well on blow cars.

Roy

that's one of the biggest pieces of mis-information out there.

scramblr

Not grinding at all. Sometimes it goes in smooth and sometimes not. I did read about this before but forgot about it. I've always just rolled the car up a bit. I'll try realeasing the clutch next time and see how it goes. Thanks for the reminder.

I've read the Che T/Ls have helped some and not others. I've had them on and off 3 or 4 times (took them off again tonight) and can't tell the difference except for some added NVH. Then again, I've had high RPM shiftting problems so I haven't actually tested them on a good tranny.

rog06gt

+1
That and the replacement engine mounts, I have the MGW shifter (nice piece) but still get locked out 2-3 shift at high rpm...
New slave cylinder installed with Centerforce DF clutch (9 weights), flywheel resurfaced, Mobil 1 ATF...Steeda engine mounts...bla bla bla...still get locked out...1-2 & 3-4 are fine...2-3 have to wait 1 second for the internal shift mechanism to unload...no grinding at all and my clutch disengages fully...

RKNMACH

the best way to shift into reverse is to shift into second (or third) and then go to reverse. Can't tell you why, that's the way I've always done and it works.

69Mach1-409

Just picked mine up last night and I've noticed that the clutch is heavier then the 07's I test drove. Also the shifter is harder / knotchy (sp?) when compared to the 05-07's I've tested. It's nothing I'm complaining about, but I wonder what they've changed.

GottaHaveIt

Same as Alex just about getting into reverse, said other than that no worries.

Roy

If you had the flywheel recurfaced you should have put a shim behind the new slave cylinder to fix your shifting @ high RPM. also did you do the work or someone else. the slave is a dealer only item unless you go aftermarket and it is a $500 dollar piece. go back & try the test. "put in 1st gear rev envine to 5500 -6000 rpms and see if the clutch pedal pushes back up at your foot - if it does then & you have a new slave cylinder then you need a shim with the resurfaced flywheel - if it doesn't then it is something else inside the trans.

RadBOSS

Internal shift mechanisum has to unload? I think that is a stretch. What do you think is loading the shift mechanisum? If the slider cannot be pulled out of engagement, that usually means there isn't full clutch disengagement, because torque is the only thing that would make the slidder difficult to disengage. Short of that it could only be binding external to the transmission. You are either in the shift gate or you are out, there is nowhere in between once you enter neutral.

rog06gt

It did it also when I was on the original clutch/fluid/slave cylinder, I tried the troubleshooting above (rev to 6000 rpm in first) and it does not push back, I have no syncros issue, there is a notchiness which is pretty much standard on those tranny, but shifting 2-3 forget it I have to take my time (1 sec) or it won't go in...

Well I have no real explanation for this...the only thing I can say is that while stopped engine on or off, I can slam 2-3 as fast as i can with the palm on my hand and it will always go in, there has to be distortion inside the tranny that prevents me from doing the same at high rpm underload...driving normally it works perfectly...but I can't turn up the wick in 2nd to 3rd...and that was the same with the Steeda engine mounts, the Hurst shifter, the MGW shifter, old clutch slave cylinder, new clutch/slave cylinder...what a %^&* of money...

RadBOSS

Strange. To hit 3rd from 2nd, mechanically all that is happening is you are moving the 1-2 slider from 2nd to neutral, changing gates from 1-2 to 3-4 and then moving the slider to 3rd. If its resisting going into 3rd, then it might be the blocker ring for third is jamming and not clutching 3rd gear to slow down the input shaft. By delaying the shift you are likely letting the RPMs drop and it pops in gear when the input / output speeds are synchronized.

That is one thought. Another would be external linkage bind during the shift due to transmission movement, however that even seems very unlikely since the external gateless shifter is designed to cope with movement of the trans.

Is the link rod to the trans on the correct side of the shift lever? Not sure if that is even possible mechanically to do wrong. If none of the above I would still suspect the blocker ring or the whole slider assy is the problem.

How hard have you been shifting or hammering the transmission? With enough rough treatment it is possible to bend the shift fork and / or shift rod and that could cause internal alignment or binding problems since all the stops are internal to the trans.

The only forces on the internal linkage other than normal friction is that from the palm of you hand and what resistance the slider is providing which is normally the neutral detent and sliding friction. For the slider to shift into gear, the slider must 1st engage the blocker ring, which in turn clutches the gear, allowing the slider to engage the gear. If anything stops that progression, you do not engage the gear.

Anyway, just trying to psycho analyze your shifting problem. Maybe the above is some help.

elcaminoguy

Sometimes I have trouble getting the shifter into 4th gear. Almost like the shifter notch is too small or something. Could be my lousy driving too...

Stephen

I have the hurst shifter installed on my '06 gt and it requires slightly more effort to throw but I think thats because it is a short shifter and there is less leverage, I didn't have any trouble with the factory shifter

n8rfastback

my hurst is notchy feeling too, but its way better than the stocker even if its a little harder to throw into gear. the stocker was smoother overall but the hurst wins by far.