GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Write up for Boost/Wideband gauge install?

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Old 9/15/07 | 10:16 AM
  #1  
max2000jp's Avatar
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Write up for Boost/Wideband gauge install?

I just bought a Cobalt mechanical boost gauge and Wideband 02 gauge. I am mainly looking for a write up to checkout the wiring instructions for our cars. The mechanical aspects are simple, as well as mounting them. I am not the most proficient at wiring, so I'd like to take a look at instructions beforehand. Can anyone help?

Jason
Old 9/15/07 | 01:06 PM
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Not sure what you are asking here. Instructions that came with the gage are OK. Are you seaking info. on where the wires are you tap for the gage?
Old 9/15/07 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mongoose
Are you seaking info. on where the wires are you tap for the gage?
Yes. The autometer gauges are universal, so I am looking for S197 specific instructions for a reference.
Old 9/16/07 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by max2000jp
Yes. The autometer gauges are universal, so I am looking for S197 specific instructions for a reference.
Jason, which specific wires do you need help with? I just put a DynoJet wideband in my car, and I'm pretty sure the AutoMeter setup is similar...
Old 9/17/07 | 12:06 AM
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if you have a tuner just turn off the rear O2 sensors and take one out then install the sensor into the slot where you removed the factory O2 sensor. i am hopeing to soon install the FAST twin sensor A/F ratio system

EDIT: go with what uberpony said below, i just use this location because i have an offroad-H so i do not worry about the cats but i can see how it has to be before the cats to get a good reading
Old 9/17/07 | 06:51 AM
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DONT DO WHAT HE SAID!
The O2 sensor has to go in front of the cats and if you put it in the cat you wont get an accurate reading.You should weld a bung in to the H pipe on drivers side in front of the cat.
Old 9/17/07 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by uberPony
You should weld a bung in to the H pipe on drivers side in front of the cat.
Am I missing something here? I thought the H pipe was AFTER the cats? The cats are attached directly to the exhaust manifold, so the only place to put the bung is on the exhaust manifold.
Old 9/17/07 | 09:40 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by SoundGuyDave
Jason, which specific wires do you need help with? I just put a DynoJet wideband in my car, and I'm pretty sure the AutoMeter setup is similar...
I don't have the instructions handy, but I am looking for the easiest way to hookup the ground, switchable power, etc. I hate wiring, so I am trying to get everything planned before the install.
Old 9/17/07 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by max2000jp
I don't have the instructions handy, but I am looking for the easiest way to hookup the ground, switchable power, etc. I hate wiring, so I am trying to get everything planned before the install.
Okay, this is a no-big-deal install... I mounted the control module up under the dash, and ran the pre-built looms right along with the factory harnesses. Make sure you have plenty of wire ties on hand. The engine compartment harness and the O2 sensor harness will slide through a wireway just under the master cylinder, which on my car is covered with a silver "patch" for lack of a better description. The power and ground harnesses I ran past the back of the radio into the passenger footwell. The easiest spot to grab switched power is in the interior fusebox, behind the passenger kick panel. There are a couple of open fuse spots in the box that you can tap into, and one of them is switched. I used an "add-a-tap" setup from the local parts store for the +12V feed, and a couple of 18-22ga ring terminals for the two grounds. I used the glove-box frame for ground, with separate points for the digital and analog grounds. The only problem I had was finding a dimmed lighting source near the console, and wound up just hard-wiring the gauge light to the add-a-tap. The wiring portion of the install took about 15 minutes.

A quick parts list of handy things to have for wiring:

extra 18ga hook-up wire
some small heat-shrink tubing
a selection of 18-22ga crimp terminals (ring, spade, fork, butt-splice).
Add-A-Tap fuse holder
appropriate fuse
Electrical tape (some prefer friction tape)
wire ties

Handy tools:
Wire strippers
SMALL wire cutters
soldering iron and rosin-core solder
cigarette lighter (or a heat gun) for the heat shrink
Terminal crimper
Multimeter (volt-ohm-milliamp)

The basic supplies can be assembled for under $20, and the tools cost, well, what tools cost. $40 on the cheap, up to thousands if you get nuts.

If you want help, drop me a PM, I'm in the western burbs...

Oh, I had a bung welded into the down tube between the driver's side manifold and the converter body.
Old 9/18/07 | 07:25 AM
  #10  
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Am I missing something here? I thought the H pipe was AFTER the cats?
Apparently....
The cats are part of the H pipe. There is a six inch space in front of the driver's cat where a bung can be welded. The stock 02 sensors are in the cats themselves.
Nobody is welding bungs to exhaust manifolds.
The cats are attached directly to the exhaust manifold,
No they are set approxiamately 6 inches back in the H pipe.
Old 9/19/07 | 03:34 PM
  #11  
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From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
I guess I was! For some reason, I had forgotten that the cats were welded to the h-pipe.

I'm sure if I had taken the time to weld on the bung for my LC-1 I would have known this! Thanks for the correction uberPony!
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