adrenalin

I decided to give the WMS Racing intake a try. I am still in the process of trying to connect the shaker into the ram air box. A few thoughts about this intake. The installation was pretty straight forward. Obviously not as easy as other intakes since you have to move the coolant reservoir. One change I think they should make is in regards to the location of the coolant reservoir. It sits a little high. There is enough room to lower it down at least another half an inch. It has left quite the impression in the hood liner. At first the hood was very hard to close so I made a few adjustments. My concern is that the hood is pressed against the coolant reservoir. I might redo the mounting bracket myself to fix this.
The setup I went with uses the 80mm MAF housing. The larger 95mm is only recommended if you have done serious mods like cams, superchargers, etc. WMS Racing also notes that if you do not have any major mods like that done, there is no benefit in going with the 95mm intake. After the install I took the car out for a test drive with only the stock tune loaded. Everything went fine so it is nice to know that if I had to, I can drive it to the dealer without a tune installed. I then installed a tune from Bamachips and as expected it brought the car back to life. One problem I am having, or at least encountered, happens regardless if a tune is installed or not. The car idles around 500 rpm. I was on the highway for about 15 minutes with the A/C on max since the outside temp was around 104 degrees. When I took and off ramp and had to come to a stop, as soon as I put the car in neutral, it stalled. I could easily repeat this simply by driving for a minute with the A/C on max and then stopping the car. It would stall everytime. Looks like when the A/C is on the rpm's drop down to 100-200rpm and it then stalls. Fortunately I don't use the A/C alot but I think that I will see if I can get a tune that keeps the rpm's up a bit (if possible). Anyway, here are some pics of the intake. Now if only I could figure out how to tie the shaker into it.

05GT-O.C.D.

John, I had the same problem. I fought with that problem for 2 years before solving it. I believe the problem is partially due to the fact that the MAF sensor is so close to the TB. I went through everything from replacing the throttle body, to the fuel pump, and a few other things. I ended up solving the problem by doing 2 things.
First, loosen both the hose clamps and adjust the MAF housing towards the front of the car, and pull the filter out slightly too. Take them out as far as you can and still retighten and get a solid seal. While you have it apart again, clean the TB plates and MAF sensor. Get everything clean and put as much space as possible between the TB and MAF, adjust the filter out to have the spacing consistant. Test drive the car. If you still have the prolem, then contact Doug and let him know it's a WMS intake and he's got a special tune that helps remedy the problem.

Edit: Oh, and don't bother calling Shannon of WMS. He'll act like he's never heard of the problem before and blame everything except for the intake, even though I know the issue has been addresssed with him before.

adrenalin

Thanks for the info John. I will certainly give this a try. I noticed the TB plates were a bit dirty but I didn't have anything I could use to clean them. I will pick some stuff up and give it a try this weekend.

adrenalin

Forgot to mention an issue, at least I think it is one, regarding the ram air box. The 4 recessed holes for the mounting clips are very thin. The plastic on the stock rad cover is approx. 3/16th's of an inch thick. The WMS is around 1/16th of an inch. I can easily press on the plastic with my finger and make it look like it will stretch. I have a feeling it will crack easily over a short period of time. I wrote to WMS about this concern on Thursday of last week but have yet to hear anything from them. When, and if I do, I will let you know what they say.

adrenalin

Got a response from WMS. They have seen the stalling issue and think it may be caused by a vacuum leak around the main seal so I will check that tonight. They also want me to disconnect the battery for an hour to make sure the computer resets itself. I always thought it was just a 5 minute rule but then again, after removing the tune I never did disconnect the battery.

05GT-O.C.D.

I don't know if there's any truth to this or not, but my local Ford tech advised turning the headlights to the ON position while the batt is disconnected to be sure to clear the system of any residual power.

Mikes_BLK_GT

I had my batt disconnected last week for about 2 hrs during maintenance and cop install. some things were reset some werent i.e. my gas milage meter reset but my trip meter did not, my clock reset but my radio stations did not. Next time I'll try the headlamp deal see if that works.

2kanchoo

Congrats it looks great! I've had mine with the 95mm maf housing for a couple years now. I've had no problems with the plastic cracking. I've had the car stall on me once before after driving really hard on the highway then coming to a stop but only one time. What do you have your idle set to with the tuner? Maybe raise that up a 100-150rpms. Then if it ever drops down again it won't drop far enough to stall?

I don't have any major mods like s/c or cams, but when I switched from the 80mm maf housing with no tune to the 95mm maf housing with a tune from brenspeed and some dyno tweeqing I got an additional 27rwhp. I've also raised up the back of the box so it makes a tight seal with the scoop of my hood. And on a side note the k&n filter cleaner kit works great with the supplied filter. If you didn't know like me it will freak you out at first cause the cleaner leaks the red coloring out but the oil is colored so that fixes it. (I highly suggest using the spray can oil instead of the cream)

zoomerman46

congrats adrenlin, Great looking setup. I have the wmsracing on my 05 GT one of the first mods I put on back in Apr 05.Started out stock with the wmsracing no tune stock (87) ran great no cels no issues.One thing I did was to get rid of the stock coolant tank and r/r with a Canton aluminum tank,must buy a standard type radiator cap the original will not work.Anyway next was a sct-2 with tunes from Brenspeed woke it up nicely on the 93 tune.Still never any issues. Next was a Saleen SC with the stock 80mm mass air and stock injectors dyno'd only 365rwhp with that setup r/r and went to 39 lb injectors and wms 95 mm mass air with 3.6 pulley dyno'd 430 rwhp on a Mustang dyno.Also add the ram air box at that time.The wms cai has always been rock solid for me.Only issues were tunes which were fixed when it was setup on a dyno with SCT tuning.

Kotobuki

adrenalin, if you're really serious about hooking the shaker into the box, this is what I'd suggest...

Get a thin sheet of aluminum or stainless, and cut/bend a cover that conforms to top of the intake tray, and wraps over the edges to seal it up completely. Use of a thin weather stripping around the front edge would be good to ensure a good full seal. You could tie it in with some screws, or maybe even using plastic pins like the one's used to hold the rear trunk panel in.

Then get a hole saw, and cut a hole in the back of the box on the driver's side the same size as the intake tubing on the shaker. Cut the tube on the shaker just before it bends, and pipe it straight into the back of the intake box. Again, use weatherstripping around the hole, or you can probably find appropriate fittings at a hardware store to put it together. It might not be the most high-tech or classiest look but it should work well.

AGBULLIT

I think Kotobuki's idea about routing the air to the air box is good.

However the cover for the filter is not needed since the hood seals the top off. Also a sealed off box would keep air from the holes in the radiator cover from delivering fresh air.

adrenalin after you have perfected this mod I may have to upgrade myself!

05GT-O.C.D.

Yeah, there's no point in restricting the air coming in from the grille. That's good fresh air. I put a heat shield on the bottom of the ram-air tray to keep it from getting warm, but at speed I don't think there's enough time for the temp to change from ambient.

adrenalin

Kotobuki, oddly enough I was showing my car to a co-worker the other day and we were both trying to figure out how to cut the tube and use a flat piece to tie the 2 parts together. Pretty much along the same idea as you posted above. I was going to go to the local automotive scrap yard to see if I could find anything from another vehicle that I might be able to use for this idea.

adrenalin

Well after getting a different tune from Doug the car is running a lot better. However today I noticed 2 more issues with this kit. The ram air box is rubbing against the hood and taking paint off right around the grille area. Second problem is the air filter is pushing into the liner on the hood by about an 1/8 of an inch. So not only is the hood liner really getting trashed due to the air filter and the coolant reservoir location, but the air filter itself has a little bit of damage to it. I am starting to wonder if this was such a great idea after all.

05GT-O.C.D.

Hmm. I wonder why you're liner's getting messed up? First I've heard of that, really. I had a small impression by the filter, but nothing 'damaging' and nothing at all near the coolant reservoir. Odd.
I sprayed my upper-tie-bar flat black so you couldn't see it through the grille openings. Maybe the car's telling you something.
Glad the car's running better.

2kanchoo

I took my hood liner off. It makes the car sound a bit louder, gives more room for air flow, and then you don't have to worry aboot it.

mikeelia

Mine's been on for 25k at least. I had the low idle problem which turned out to be a throttle body warranty problem [replaced by dealer], I trimmed my liner with a pair of scissors to clear the filter, and I don't see any rubbing on my hood form the tray, but I put a push-on weatherstrip on the whole upper edge, mostly to make it look more finished...