GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Why did Ford use a steel driveshaft?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:12 AM
  #1  
metroplex's Avatar
Thread Starter
Legacy TMS Member
 
Joined: October 2, 2006
Posts: 4,777
Likes: 16
From: Southeast Michigan
Why did Ford use a steel driveshaft?

Why did Ford use a steel driveshaft on the S197 GT instead of aluminum or an aluminum metal matrix composite material?
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:23 AM
  #2  
SteelTownStang's Avatar
Shelby GT500 Member
 
Joined: July 1, 2006
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by metroplex
Why did Ford use a steel driveshaft on the S197 GT instead of aluminum or an aluminum metal matrix composite material?
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:42 AM
  #3  
Louie's Avatar
Cobra Member
 
Joined: April 7, 2005
Posts: 1,452
Likes: 0
From: Holland
Originally Posted by SteelTownStang
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
+1

The stock driveshaft performs great and gets the job done.
For an aftermarket Al piece you must pay around $700. Would you have happily paid that much extra if it were OEM?

Of course, if you're planning to add a supercharger, then it would be wise (yet still not absolutely necessary) to install an Al driveshaft.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:02 AM
  #4  
metroplex's Avatar
Thread Starter
Legacy TMS Member
 
Joined: October 2, 2006
Posts: 4,777
Likes: 16
From: Southeast Michigan
Originally Posted by Louie
+1

The stock driveshaft performs great and gets the job done.
For an aftermarket Al piece you must pay around $700. Would you have happily paid that much extra if it were OEM?

Of course, if you're planning to add a supercharger, then it would be wise (yet still not absolutely necessary) to install an Al driveshaft.
I would have happily paid extra for factory installed options such as:
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP

instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:06 AM
  #5  
Louie's Avatar
Cobra Member
 
Joined: April 7, 2005
Posts: 1,452
Likes: 0
From: Holland
Originally Posted by metroplex
I would have happily paid extra for factory installed options such as:
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP

instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
Well, you do have a good point there, but I don't think the majority of Mustang buyers absolutely wanted an Al driveshaft. Like I said, it all comes down to cost cutting.

We're lucky to have such a rich aftermarket offer, though!
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:06 AM
  #6  
Galaxie's Avatar
I Have Admin Envy
 
Joined: January 30, 2004
Posts: 6,740
Likes: 1
There are lots of us here that would pay more for higher end things. The problem is they want to keep as minimal of build combinations as possible.

The aluminum driveshaft is a good ideal that they may have been able to save money on for example. Instead of the 2-piece steel shaft with a U-joint, they could have probably had a one-piece aluminum shaft. I'm sure the cost of the shaft would have offset the cost of the extra C-V joint.

I would have loved IRS being an option, ditto for upgraded interior bits that only now have showed up.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:58 AM
  #7  
94tbird's Avatar
Legacy TMS Member
 
Joined: November 10, 2004
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 0
actually the steel 2 piece was used to absorb vibration and road noise to keep it out of the cabin. this is why they used rubber busings on the LCA's, UCA, panhard bar, and almost everywhere else you can see. Deadens the road noise. Change to an aftermarket suspension like me with poly urethane bushings and see how the noises will annoy the hell out of you. i wish i had the quiet ride i had before with the performance handling i have now.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:53 AM
  #8  
RKNMACH's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: NOVA
Originally Posted by 94tbird
actually the steel 2 piece was used to absorb vibration and road noise to keep it out of the cabin. this is why they used rubber busings on the LCA's, UCA, panhard bar, and almost everywhere else you can see. Deadens the road noise. Change to an aftermarket suspension like me with poly urethane bushings and see how the noises will annoy the hell out of you. i wish i had the quiet ride i had before with the performance handling i have now.

Good point. The ground noise is my only disappointment with the car. Still waiting to hear about any Dynamat installations.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #9  
lodom's Avatar
Cobra Member
 
Joined: May 11, 2004
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
There are some comments about the sonic improvemets of adding dynamat in the trunk/rear deck area if you do a search. They used to be confined int the interior/audio forum.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #10  
metroplex's Avatar
Thread Starter
Legacy TMS Member
 
Joined: October 2, 2006
Posts: 4,777
Likes: 16
From: Southeast Michigan
Do you know where the dynamat should be installed?

Trunk floor, sides, trunk lid, etc...
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:15 PM
  #11  
RKNMACH's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: NOVA
I'm looking at the trunk area only. A S/C V-6 owner posted he was going to do some Dynamat work and I'm waiting for his feedback. Just trying to cut out a bit of the drone and tunnel noise.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:31 PM
  #12  
metroplex's Avatar
Thread Starter
Legacy TMS Member
 
Joined: October 2, 2006
Posts: 4,777
Likes: 16
From: Southeast Michigan
I meant, what parts of the trunk should be dynomat'd?
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:38 PM
  #13  
Vermillion06's Avatar
Cobra Member
 
Joined: May 16, 2006
Posts: 1,322
Likes: 0
From: NV
Originally Posted by metroplex
I would have happily paid extra for factory installed options such as:
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP

instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
To the vast majority of car buyers (i.e. casual Mustang fans, not the hardcore types like you and me ) appearance options are important than parts that cannot be seen but actually do something besides look good.

Mustang fans are very fortunate that there is a entire cottage industry built around the Mustang, and aftermarket parts are readily available. Support the economy! Add aftermarket parts to your Mustang!
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:02 PM
  #14  
RKNMACH's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: NOVA
Originally Posted by metroplex
I meant, what parts of the trunk should be dynomat'd?

I'm going to start with the trunk floor - try and deaden some of the exhaust noise. Hopefully I won't have to take out the rears seats. I like the sound of my exhaust but would like it a little quieter inside.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:22 PM
  #15  
Dysan's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: January 27, 2005
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by metroplex
Do you know where the dynamat should be installed?

Trunk floor, sides, trunk lid, etc...
Depends on what you are trying to accomplish....If you are only trying to get rid of road noise(not trying to help with a stereo install) then the bottom and sides of the trunk. If you are working for a stereo install, you'll want to also do under the rear deck and the trunk lid as well. With sound dampening materials, more is better so if you can afford to give it 2 layers, that will help even more. I did most of my trunk, and I also did the inside floor and under the console and it helped quite a bit. Doing the console also helped to greatly reduce the extra noise from my aftermarket shifter.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:24 PM
  #16  
RKNMACH's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: NOVA
What type of product did you use on your trunk? No stereo for me, just a little bit of quiet.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:44 PM
  #17  
GT John's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: April 16, 2006
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by metroplex
I meant, what parts of the trunk should be dynomat'd?
So far I have installed dynomat in the trunk and trunk outer skin, covered all exposed metal, even behind the rear plastic stuff (back license plate area). And also installed a few strips up where the rear speakers are.

Have installed Dynomat in the rear seat area + rear floor (you have to remove the rear seat) all exposed metal.

Have installed Dynomat in both doors, once again all exposed metal.

Havent got around to doing the front floor board or firewall yet.
It takes a lot of work and it aint cheap. But its really worth it.

Give it a shot. Do the trunk area first just so you'll see that your not wasting your time.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:12 PM
  #18  
Mongoose's Avatar
Cobra R Member
 
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by metroplex
Why did Ford use a steel driveshaft on the S197 GT instead of aluminum or an aluminum metal matrix composite material?
Why don't you write Ford and ask them?
Reply
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:54 AM
  #19  
RKNMACH's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: NOVA
Originally Posted by GT John
So far I have installed dynomat in the trunk and trunk outer skin, covered all exposed metal, even behind the rear plastic stuff (back license plate area). And also installed a few strips up where the rear speakers are.

Have installed Dynomat in the rear seat area + rear floor (you have to remove the rear seat) all exposed metal.

Have installed Dynomat in both doors, once again all exposed metal.

Havent got around to doing the front floor board or firewall yet.
It takes a lot of work and it aint cheap. But its really worth it.

Give it a shot. Do the trunk area first just so you'll see that your not wasting your time.

What package did you order for the trunk? Do you need the roller they show on their web site or can you mold the Dynamat to trunk floor etc w/o any problems? Thanks.
Reply
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 09:59 AM
  #20  
dustindu4's Avatar
9 is not my lucky number.
 
Joined: March 12, 2004
Posts: 3,663
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by 94tbird
actually the steel 2 piece was used to absorb vibration and road noise to keep it out of the cabin. this is why they used rubber busings on the LCA's, UCA, panhard bar, and almost everywhere else you can see. Deadens the road noise. Change to an aftermarket suspension like me with poly urethane bushings and see how the noises will annoy the hell out of you. i wish i had the quiet ride i had before with the performance handling i have now.
This is all true. Plus they can hit you up for another $300 FRPP alum driveshaft later on.

Makes me laugh when people complain about their Mustang being noisy, when I can't even have a conversation inside the car with the windows rolled up.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ecostang
'10-14 V6 Modifications
1661
Nov 3, 2022 08:50 PM
iceD
'10-14 V6 Modifications
19
Apr 10, 2016 12:59 PM
JonathonK
GT350
6
Sep 17, 2015 10:13 AM




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:45 AM.