Why did Ford use a steel driveshaft?
+1
The stock driveshaft performs great and gets the job done.
For an aftermarket Al piece you must pay around $700. Would you have happily paid that much extra if it were OEM?
Of course, if you're planning to add a supercharger, then it would be wise (yet still not absolutely necessary) to install an Al driveshaft.
The stock driveshaft performs great and gets the job done.
For an aftermarket Al piece you must pay around $700. Would you have happily paid that much extra if it were OEM?
Of course, if you're planning to add a supercharger, then it would be wise (yet still not absolutely necessary) to install an Al driveshaft.
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Joined: October 2, 2006
Posts: 4,777
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From: Southeast Michigan
+1
The stock driveshaft performs great and gets the job done.
For an aftermarket Al piece you must pay around $700. Would you have happily paid that much extra if it were OEM?
Of course, if you're planning to add a supercharger, then it would be wise (yet still not absolutely necessary) to install an Al driveshaft.
The stock driveshaft performs great and gets the job done.
For an aftermarket Al piece you must pay around $700. Would you have happily paid that much extra if it were OEM?
Of course, if you're planning to add a supercharger, then it would be wise (yet still not absolutely necessary) to install an Al driveshaft.
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP
instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
I would have happily paid extra for factory installed options such as:
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP
instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP
instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
We're lucky to have such a rich aftermarket offer, though!
There are lots of us here that would pay more for higher end things. The problem is they want to keep as minimal of build combinations as possible.
The aluminum driveshaft is a good ideal that they may have been able to save money on for example. Instead of the 2-piece steel shaft with a U-joint, they could have probably had a one-piece aluminum shaft. I'm sure the cost of the shaft would have offset the cost of the extra C-V joint.
I would have loved IRS being an option, ditto for upgraded interior bits that only now have showed up.
The aluminum driveshaft is a good ideal that they may have been able to save money on for example. Instead of the 2-piece steel shaft with a U-joint, they could have probably had a one-piece aluminum shaft. I'm sure the cost of the shaft would have offset the cost of the extra C-V joint.
I would have loved IRS being an option, ditto for upgraded interior bits that only now have showed up.
actually the steel 2 piece was used to absorb vibration and road noise to keep it out of the cabin. this is why they used rubber busings on the LCA's, UCA, panhard bar, and almost everywhere else you can see. Deadens the road noise. Change to an aftermarket suspension like me with poly urethane bushings and see how the noises will annoy the hell out of you. i wish i had the quiet ride i had before with the performance handling i have now.
actually the steel 2 piece was used to absorb vibration and road noise to keep it out of the cabin. this is why they used rubber busings on the LCA's, UCA, panhard bar, and almost everywhere else you can see. Deadens the road noise. Change to an aftermarket suspension like me with poly urethane bushings and see how the noises will annoy the hell out of you. i wish i had the quiet ride i had before with the performance handling i have now.
Good point. The ground noise is my only disappointment with the car. Still waiting to hear about any Dynamat installations.
I would have happily paid extra for factory installed options such as:
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP
instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
AMMX driveshaft ($700 not a big deal)
3.73s Limited Slip ($200-$300, no biggie)
cold air intake ($300+, with factory warranty)
suspension upgrade package ($??, still good w/ factory warranty)
MyColor and trip Computer separate from IUP
2-tone interior separate from SAP
instead of 3-5 different appearance/interior trim packages that do not add any performance/handling value to the car, other than tack on useless body effects and chrome "burn your skin in the summer" trinkets/panels for the interior.
) appearance options are important than parts that cannot be seen but actually do something besides look good. Mustang fans are very fortunate that there is a entire cottage industry built around the Mustang, and aftermarket parts are readily available. Support the economy! Add aftermarket parts to your Mustang!
Depends on what you are trying to accomplish....If you are only trying to get rid of road noise(not trying to help with a stereo install) then the bottom and sides of the trunk. If you are working for a stereo install, you'll want to also do under the rear deck and the trunk lid as well. With sound dampening materials, more is better so if you can afford to give it 2 layers, that will help even more. I did most of my trunk, and I also did the inside floor and under the console and it helped quite a bit. Doing the console also helped to greatly reduce the extra noise from my aftermarket shifter.
So far I have installed dynomat in the trunk and trunk outer skin, covered all exposed metal, even behind the rear plastic stuff (back license plate area). And also installed a few strips up where the rear speakers are.
Have installed Dynomat in the rear seat area + rear floor (you have to remove the rear seat) all exposed metal.
Have installed Dynomat in both doors, once again all exposed metal.
Havent got around to doing the front floor board or firewall yet.
It takes a lot of work and it aint cheap. But its really worth it.
Give it a shot. Do the trunk area first just so you'll see that your not wasting your time.
Have installed Dynomat in the rear seat area + rear floor (you have to remove the rear seat) all exposed metal.
Have installed Dynomat in both doors, once again all exposed metal.
Havent got around to doing the front floor board or firewall yet.
It takes a lot of work and it aint cheap. But its really worth it.
Give it a shot. Do the trunk area first just so you'll see that your not wasting your time.
So far I have installed dynomat in the trunk and trunk outer skin, covered all exposed metal, even behind the rear plastic stuff (back license plate area). And also installed a few strips up where the rear speakers are.
Have installed Dynomat in the rear seat area + rear floor (you have to remove the rear seat) all exposed metal.
Have installed Dynomat in both doors, once again all exposed metal.
Havent got around to doing the front floor board or firewall yet.
It takes a lot of work and it aint cheap. But its really worth it.
Give it a shot. Do the trunk area first just so you'll see that your not wasting your time.
Have installed Dynomat in the rear seat area + rear floor (you have to remove the rear seat) all exposed metal.
Have installed Dynomat in both doors, once again all exposed metal.
Havent got around to doing the front floor board or firewall yet.
It takes a lot of work and it aint cheap. But its really worth it.
Give it a shot. Do the trunk area first just so you'll see that your not wasting your time.
What package did you order for the trunk? Do you need the roller they show on their web site or can you mold the Dynamat to trunk floor etc w/o any problems? Thanks.
actually the steel 2 piece was used to absorb vibration and road noise to keep it out of the cabin. this is why they used rubber busings on the LCA's, UCA, panhard bar, and almost everywhere else you can see. Deadens the road noise. Change to an aftermarket suspension like me with poly urethane bushings and see how the noises will annoy the hell out of you. i wish i had the quiet ride i had before with the performance handling i have now.
Makes me laugh when people complain about their Mustang being noisy, when I can't even have a conversation inside the car with the windows rolled up.
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